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Silva (Italy) (search for this): chapter 5
. . May 21.—Mad. Lenzoni had a good deal of fever in the night, and being too unwell to get up this morning, we took our breakfast by ourselves, and then went to her chamber and made our adieus to the kind old lady in her bed, which was covered with the letters the post had just brought her. . . . . Few persons visited the old Etruscan and medieval towns in the western part of Tuscany forty years ago; but Mr. Ticknor stopped to enjoy the remarkable and interesting antiquities of San Gimignano and Volterra, and did not reach Pisa until the 23d of May. Pisa, May 24.—Carmignani, the principal jurist in this part of Italy,—to whom I had a letter,—came to see me this morning. He is about sixty years old, plain in his person, simple in his manners, and very frank in his conversation, at least on political subjects. He was much acquainted with Mazzei, who left him his literary executor; but he does not seem to have valued him very highly, except as an extremely amusing person
Castello (Italy) (search for this): chapter 5
was mentioned to me by his father's Chevalier de Compagnie, and therefore it seems difficult to disbelieve it; but the young man is returned to Europe already,—July, 1837,—and denies having given any such promise. The French government, however, insists that he did. The young lady was the Princess Mathilde. . . . . May 16.—It being a plain duty of courtly civility, we went to-day to pay our respects to Prince Maximilian and the Princess Amelia. . . . . They are now in villeggiatura at Castello, a small villa of the Grand Duke, three or four miles from the city. The drive to it was beautiful, . . . . and everything is now in the freshness and luxuriance of spring . . . . . They received us with kindness and empressement, and talked upon subjects which they knew would be agreeable to us. I was struck, however, with their air and manner when they spoke of the present meeting of the Diet or Estates in Saxony, which is an innovation brought in by the Constitution of 1831. Their coun<
Bologna (Italy) (search for this): chapter 5
holas. Inside, not only its bold and solemn style throughout is effective, but there are interesting works of art,—very interesting. A Madonna by Ghirlandajo is excellent; two kneeling angels in marble on the altar of the sacrament, by Civitelli, 1470,—whose works are hardly found except here and in this neighborhood,—and a St. Sebastian, also by him, in 1484, are marvellous for the time when they were produced, and beautiful and full of deep meaning for any age. An altar-piece by John of Bologna, with the figures of the Saviour and St. Peter on one side and Paul of Lucca on the other, Statues. is one of the few satisfying representations of the Saviour I have ever looked upon, or perhaps I should rather say one of the few that do not offend the feelings when you look at it. It is of 1579. . . . . We went, too, to the palace where the Duke of Lucca has, not a large collection of pictures, but an admirable one, distributed through a few beautifully furnished rooms, where they can <
France (France) (search for this): chapter 5
arty at the Prince de Montfort's,—Jerome Bonaparte's,—who lives here in more elegance than any of his family, and in excellent taste. His beautiful daughter did the honors of the house with grace, but there is a shade of melancholy over her fair features not to be mistaken. She was engaged to be married to her cousin Louis, who attempted that foolish insurrection last autumn at Strasburg, and who is now in America, having given his parole not to return for ten years, without the consent of France. Note by Mr. Ticknor: This fact about his parole was mentioned to me by his father's Chevalier de Compagnie, and therefore it seems difficult to disbelieve it; but the young man is returned to Europe already,—July, 1837,—and denies having given any such promise. The French government, however, insists that he did. The young lady was the Princess Mathilde. . . . . May 16.—It being a plain duty of courtly civility, we went to-day to pay our respects to Prince Maximilian and the Prin
Vienna (Wien, Austria) (search for this): chapter 5
as the best way of seeing and enjoying the Alps. Mr. Ticknor reviews the experiences of these three weeks as follows:— Innsbruck, July 16.—. . . . I do not know that we could have done more in the same time to see what is grand and solemn, or graceful and gentle, in the valleys and mountain-passes of the North of Italy, the Tyrol, and the portions of Switzerland we did not visit last year . . . . I feel, indeed, now as if I were well enough acquainted with the mountain-country between Vienna and Marseilles; for with our visits to Upper Austria and Switzerland last summer, added to my former passages of the St. Bernard and the Maritime Alps on horseback, I have made seven passages of the Alps,—namely, part of the Brenner, the whole of the Stelvio, the Splu:;gen, the Arlberg, the Simplon, the St. Bernard, and the Corniche,—and seen all the principal lakes, mountains, and valleys on each side of them. Of all this, the lakes of Upper Austria are the most winning and satisfying as
Tuscany (Italy) (search for this): chapter 5
ut it, but it remains still doubtful whether his treasure and labors have not been thrown away. Taking up Dr. Baird's French History of American Temperance Societies, he made many inquiries about them; said there was very little intemperance in Tuscany; spoke of spirituous liquor as an unnatural, artificial, noxious beverage, but treated wine, like a true Italian, as a gift of God, and one of the comforts and consolations of life, as healthy, and as nourishing. Coming accidentally upon the suelves, and then went to her chamber and made our adieus to the kind old lady in her bed, which was covered with the letters the post had just brought her. . . . . Few persons visited the old Etruscan and medieval towns in the western part of Tuscany forty years ago; but Mr. Ticknor stopped to enjoy the remarkable and interesting antiquities of San Gimignano and Volterra, and did not reach Pisa until the 23d of May. Pisa, May 24.—Carmignani, the principal jurist in this part of Italy,—to
Madison Court House (Virginia, United States) (search for this): chapter 5
ive a professional opinion on the title to the estate of Monticello, formerly Jefferson's, and he repeated the names of some of the places in the neighborhood. Mr. Ticknor remarked that Philip Mazzei named those places. Mr. Bartlett asked, Who was Philip Mazzei? Mr. Ticknor, with great animation, exclaimed, Don't know who Philip Mazzei was? He then for the space of ten or fifteen minutes made a rapid sketch of Mazzei's history, tracing him into the society of Mr. Jefferson and Mr. Madison, in Virginia. The whole was told with great spirit and vivacity. Carmignani talked very well about him, as well as about everything else. He [Carmignani] entered into the discussion with Rosini, etc., about the line in Ugolino,— Poscia, piu chel dolor, pote il digiuno, but there, I think, he took the wrong side; though with Niccolini, perhaps, he would rather err than go right with Rosini. Both, however, are such good-natured men that their literary difference has not broken their personal go
Department de Ville de Paris (France) (search for this): chapter 5
nt me Mazzei's Memoirs of himself and a quantity of letters and papers from Franklin, Jefferson, the King of Poland,—Stanislaus, —whose Charge d'affaires he was at Paris, Abbe Mably, John Adams, etc. It all looked very curious, some of it quite piquant; but I could only read a little, for it is a large folio volume of about four hu perfectly uniform and simple elegance of manners. We dined with them twice, and were much with them besides, and count upon the pleasure of meeting them again in Paris. At their house we met Quinet, who, I hear,—for the first time,—is to be numbered among the living French poets of some note; a man about five-and-thirty, with a good deal of self-sufficiency; au reste, with something epigrammatic and smart in his conversation. . . . . On the way to Paris in the autumn,—having left Heidelberg on the 24th of August,—the party stopped at Frankfort and Wiesbaden. At Bonn,— I had an agreeable meeting with my old friend Welcker, kind and learned
Marseilles (France) (search for this): chapter 5
way of seeing and enjoying the Alps. Mr. Ticknor reviews the experiences of these three weeks as follows:— Innsbruck, July 16.—. . . . I do not know that we could have done more in the same time to see what is grand and solemn, or graceful and gentle, in the valleys and mountain-passes of the North of Italy, the Tyrol, and the portions of Switzerland we did not visit last year . . . . I feel, indeed, now as if I were well enough acquainted with the mountain-country between Vienna and Marseilles; for with our visits to Upper Austria and Switzerland last summer, added to my former passages of the St. Bernard and the Maritime Alps on horseback, I have made seven passages of the Alps,—namely, part of the Brenner, the whole of the Stelvio, the Splu:;gen, the Arlberg, the Simplon, the St. Bernard, and the Corniche,—and seen all the principal lakes, mountains, and valleys on each side of them. Of all this, the lakes of Upper Austria are the most winning and satisfying as lakes, except
Lombardy (Italy) (search for this): chapter 5
[one of the daughters]; Mad. Arconati [another daughter], always intellectual and agreeable; and several of the friends and relations of Count Confalonieri; and I had a very pleasant visit of one or two hours. June 10.—. . . . One morning Mad. Arconati, with her brother, the Marquis Trotti, and two or three other persons, took us out to an old and deserted villa of the Marquis Trotti, and showed us there a very large establishment for raising silk-worms, the great staple of this part of Lombardy . . . . . . . . Two evenings we spent at Manzoni's, whose house is the only one in Milan, I am told, where society is freely received. His wife was ill, and we did not see her, but his venerable mother was there, his daughters, and a few of his friends, the Casatis, Baron Trechi, and some others. Among them was one of Confalonieri's brothers, whom I met at Prince Metternich's last summer. Both evenings were very agreeable, for it was impossible not to feel that the people were kind an
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