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[506] the outside of the Pyramid. The guide then hastened to find my son and told him that my collar button was not good for him, so Jamie redeemed it for the sum of thirteen cents.

A bright little boy about ten years old was very attentive to me all day. He led me to see the great Sphinx and showed me the curious phenomenon, always affectionately patting my hand and running along holding my fingers. I enjoyed the sprightliness and playful ways of the child. My son had given him a small reward, but when we had stepped into our carriage and had started, the boy ran after the carriage screaming and crying, “Backsheesh, Backsheesh!” In his judgment I had not given him sufficient reward. He stopped his crying only when the driver threatened him with his whip, and our dragoman shook his fist at him. Imagine fifty others besides ourselves undertaking that day to satisfy that large swarm of Egyptian “fellahs” who were self-constituted guides. Poor people out there in the desert This was their only source of revenue.

In Cairo we found the heat intense. The thermometer ran to 110° in the shade.

We next went back to Alexandria and returned the visits of our consul and American residents, all of whom appeared delighted to give us entertainment. The Quinebaug, a United States naval vessel commanded by Captain Ludlow, was in the harbor. He had not only paid me a special visit but invited my son and myself to accept his hospitality on shipboard. We were to sail with him from Alexandria to Smyrna. I had been instructed before leaving Washington to concert with the commander of the Eastern Squadron, Admiral Baldwin, in the matter of observing the operations

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