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Chapter 67: France and Germany; Convention of young men's Christian Association, Berlin, 1884

On our return to Paris June 11th, we turned to the Hotel Brisil, Rue Helder. The rooms were small and we were obliged to climb three flights of stairs, but the hotel was neat enough excepting the bathrooms, which were poorly supplied with the main essential, water. In those days we furnished our own candles and all other small needs and conveniences and there were not any “lifts.” None then existed in Paris except in the largest public houses.

On Sunday, June 15th, we all went quite early to the Madeleine. Perhaps no music could be more effective than that filling the great spaces, caught as one entered and stood near the doorway. There was an annual church festival in progress and the auditorium was filled to overflowing. It was from the front of this building that Bonaparte in the very beginning of his career made his artillery so effective against the National Guard. On this day Jamie gave us a treat in what is called a “Duval.” It was a peculiarly constructed restaurant, very economical in its furnishing and in its bill of fare. To our astonishment, we met a number of American friends who were seated at a neighboring table. They recognized us as we came in; thus happily and cheerfully friends meet unexpectedly in all parts of the world.

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