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[276] their names; because, in the first place, they do not introduce persons in society here as a general rule, and when they do, it is very difficult to catch a French name so as to remember it. After twelve o'clock went to one of the balls at Musard's. It was literally crammed with dancers and spectators.

March 23. This morning visited the Bibliotheque du Roi; saw its immense collections of books, medals, plates, and maps, and its great museum of manuscripts. Here are eighty thousand manuscripts. In the evening went to the Theatre of the Palais Royal, where I saw Mademoiselle Dejazet1 (a woman famous for libertinism, as well as spirit as an actress) in one of the popular pieces of the day, called a folie,—La Maitresse de Langues. Her manner was very easy, graceful, and lively.

March 24. Visited the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers. . . . Attended Lerminier's lecture at the College Royal; his subject was the contest of Frederick II. of Germany with the power of the Pope, with a sketch of the character of the former. As usual he was animated, and drew the attention of a large audience. In the evening heard Le Sage's best comedy,— Turcaret,—at the Theatre Francais.

March 26. In the course of the day I called upon Mrs. Florida White; while I was there, among a good deal of company, I met the Countess Guiccioli.2 She was rather short, inclined to embonpoint, with a light complexion, and a touch of red in the cheek. I did not notice her particularly, because I did not catch the name when she was announced, and I left very soon after she entered the room.

March 27. Walked much, and went to the top of Notre Dame; the day was beautiful, and I saw all Paris beneath my feet. . . . Heard Lerminier at the College of France; as usual, brilliant, rambling, excited, with a full and attentive audience of young men. His subject was St. Louis,—his crusades, and his character. After the lecture again walked; penetrated through all the small streets between the Place de la Bastille and the Rue St. Martin. . . . Dined at Meurice's table d'hote; this is the great English hotel, and English is the prevalent language at table. The dinner is well served. I sat, of course, between two Englishmen. Tired of silence, by and by I presumed to break it with my next neighbor, who seemed not sorry; we talked very happily together, and he opened his heart in the fulness of sympathy, as to a compatriot. I deemed it my duty, however, to state that I was not an Englishman,—he started with astonishment; I added that I was of the United States. All at once he became cold; his countenance was averted, and the little conversation which we afterwards had was measured, tame, and insipid. Cooper would build an argument on this incident to show the deep-seated antipathy on the part of Englishmen to our country! In the evening attended for a short time the


1 Pauline Virginie Dejazet, 1798-1873. She went upon the stage when only five years old, and left it in 1868.

2 The Countess Guiccioli, nee Teresa Gamba, 1801-1873. Her liaison with Lord Byron, whom she met, in 1819, at Venice and Ravenna, Pisa and Genoa, gave her great notoriety. In 1851 she married a Frenchman, the Marquis de Boissy, who died in 1866. Late in life she published ‘Recollections’ of the poet.

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