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[63]

Crossing the river by ‘the first ferry in which horses and teams were carried over’ that Sumner had ever seen, ‘the boat being moved by two horses on deck,’ the travellers entered Northampton, where they admired the fine houses on its main street, visited the Round-Hill School, and took supper at the Coffee House. Then they pressed on to Hatfield, where they were to lodge. Here their attention was attracted by a house with large pillars on both sides, and apparently built of marble. At this place, for the sake of ‘a better road and easier travelling,’ they changed their original purpose of striking directly across the mountains, and decided to go northward, following the river further up. On Sunday morning (19th), they walked before breakfast some six or seven miles, in a rain, to Deerfield, whose ‘brick meeting-house and a long street shaded by elms’ were observed. The traditions of Indian warfare in the vicinity of Bloody Brook were recalled. ‘We are now at Deerfield, and in the neighborhood of a spot famous for a massacre by the Indians. In fact, all these towns have been the scene of bloody battles between the Indians and the first settlers.’

Sumner, in the afternoon, went on to Greenfield, riding about ‘half a mile in a wagon;’ his first ride since he left Boston. The next morning (20th), the party journeyed on ‘a most delightful road, with a brook running by its side, and through a beautiful wood’ to Coleraine, where they paused for breakfast. They met, near the border-line of Massachusetts and Vermont, a farmer from Milton, who entertained them with ‘beer and milk,’ and they eat raspberries on the very spot where the two States divide. Thence they proceeded through an uncleared, rocky, and hilly country, with no habitations but a few log huts. After ‘a fine country supper of brown-bread and milk, at a small village secluded among the mountains’ which they reached about dusk, they went on to the next public house, five miles off.

We were told, beforehand, that the whole road was through a perfect forest, without a single house on the way. This we found to be too true. It was beginning to be dark when we started, and we had proceeded scarcely a mile before we found ourselves enveloped in total darkness. The forest through which we were passing was one of great extent, stretching over all the neighboring country. It was infested by wolves, bears, and wildcats. The road had been made through it but in the preceding spring, and had not yet been thrown open. One step would be upon a smooth and slippery rock, and another into a deep slough. Stumps of trees were in the middle of the road, and the high woods by the side shut out the small light that the

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