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[541] with him; got home at ten o'clock, too tired for society, and compelled to give up several opportunities.

May 21. Drove with Appleton in Bois de Boulogne; caught in a terrible storm of rain; went home, too much exhausted to go out.

May 22. Visited the Horticultural Exhibition in the Palais de l'industrie; drove to Montmartre, saw the cemetery; dined with Appleton, to meet Signor Ruffini,1 the Italian who has written so successfully in English; afterwards passed an hour or two at Lamartine's.

May 23. Took my last French lesson to-day, previous to leaving Paris; drove with Appleton to St. Cloud, where we dined in the open air, while the band played near us; in the evening packed my trunk.

May 24. Left Paris for a tour in the provinces, hoping that a change may improve my health, and wishing to see France elsewhere than at Paris; arrived at Orleans by railroad about noon; day beautiful, country charming; took a carriage and drove to the chateau at the source of the Loire, where Bolingbroke lived in his exile; visited the old streets of Orleans, the Museum, and the Rue Pothier, where was the house in which this great jurist lived; also saw his monument at the cathedral. At the end of the afternoon went on by rail to Blois, where in the evening I rambled about old streets as munch as my strength would permit; heard the close of a sermon in a well-packed church opposite the chateau, and also attended a concert.

May 25. Early in the morning was waked by the light streaming into my window; as I dressed, looked out upon the Loire. At seven o'clock started in an open carriage to visit Chambord, about eleven miles distant, where after visiting the castle I breakfasted; returned to Blois; visited the interesting castle there, and other objects, and then took the railroad for Amboise, where I visited the castle; then in an open carriage drove to Chenonceaux, perhaps the most beautiful castle of France; returned to Amboise for dinner; then by railroad to Tours. An interesting day.

May 26. Rambled about Tours, visited its museum, its library, its cathedral, and its old streets; also visited Mettray, the seat of the interesting colony of young culprits now under the direction of M. Demetz,2 formerly of the royal court of Paris. I was much touched by his saying that he had renounced his position, thinking that there was something more for him to do than to continue rendering judgments of court,— “faisant des arrets;” that he had the happiness to be a Christian, and that it was of much more importance to him what the good God should think of him than what men did. I was amused by the energy with which M. Demetz commended the sabots which his pupils wore. He said that in winter he wore them himself about the yard; that they protected the feet better against moisture than any india-rubber.

May 27. Left Tours by railroad early in the morning for Angers; enjoyed the sight of valley and of castles. At Angers passed several hours; visited its museum, its library, its remarkable chateau, and plunged into its narrow ancient streets; in the afternoon went on to Nantes, where I arrived so weary that I soon went to bed. On the way my attention had been arrested by the ruins of the old castle of Gilles de Retz, the original Blue Beard, and

1 1807-1881; author of ‘Doctor Antonio.’

2 An acquaintance of Sumner, made in 1838. Ante, vol. i. p. 278.

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