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[272]

Greece was before her. On June 17 the Journal says:

Acroceraunian mountains, shore of Albania. Nothing strikes me — I have been struck till I am stricken down. Sirocco and head wind — vessel laboring with the sea, I with Guizot's ‘Meditations,’ which also have some head wind in them. They seem to me inconclusive in statement and commonplace in thought, yet presenting some facts of interest. A little before 2 P. M. we passed Fano, the island on which Calypso could not console herself, and no wonder. At 2 we enter the channel of Corfii.

At Corfu a Turkish pacha came on board with his harem, to our lively interest. The Journal gives every observable detail of the somewhat squalid manage, from the pacha's lilac trousers down to the dress of his son and heir, a singularly dirty baby. She remarks that “An Irish servant's child in Boston, got up for Sunday, looks far cleaner and better.”

The pacha looked indolent and good-natured, and sent coffee to her before she disembarked at Syra. Here she was met by Mr. Evangelides, the “Christy” of her childhood, the Greek boy befriended by her father. He was now a prosperous man in middle life, full of affectionate remembrance of the family at 16 Bond Street, and of gratitude to “dear Mr. Ward.” He welcomed her most cordially, and introduced her not only to the beauties of Syra, but to its principal inhabitants, the governor of the Cyclades, the archbishop, and Doctor Hahn, the scientist and antiquary. She conversed with the archbishop in German.

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