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Chapter 25:


A journey from Dresden to Berlin, and back again, was a very different undertaking in 1836 from what it is now, five days being consumed in going to the Prussian capital, with halts for the night at Leipzic, Dessau, Wittenberg, and Potsdam, and three days required for the return. In Berlin, where Mr. Ticknor and his family arrived on the 17th of May, they witnessed a great review and sham fight of twenty thousand men, at which the Dukes of Orleans and Nemours were present, and on the 19th Mr. Ticknor began his visits, of which he describes the most interesting as follows:β€”
May 19.β€”In the afternoon I made some visits, but found nobody . . . . except Neander, the Church historian, a perfect type of such German students as I used to see often when I was here before, but of whom this is the first specimen I have seen this time; living up three or four pair of stairs, buried in books, so near-sighted that he can see little more than an inch beyond his nose, and so ignorant of the world that the circle of his practical knowledge is not much wider than that of his vision; dirty in his person, and in the midst of confusion; but learned withal, earnest, kind, and I thought conscientious. I should be glad to see more of him, and wish we had many such at home.

May 20.β€”Mr. Forster1 came this morning, and carried us to see the collection of antiques and the picture-gallery. . . . . The first we visited was the collection of antiques, which is placed partly in a fine rotunda in the centre of the building. . .. . It did not strike me as a very good collection in any respect .. . . . We saw it hastily, and shall go again, but two or three things struck me a good deal; among

1 Head of one of the public collections in the Arts, and formerly Professor in the University of Berlin.

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