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[503] them for a freer government. When Scharnhorst provided for making every man in the country a soldier, he provided the first element of public freedom, in the sense of personal power and rights which his system necessarily gave to every individual. When Stein gave the inhabitants of the cities the corporate privilege of electing their own municipal officers and transacting their own affairs, the whole country was shown how political rights might be used and exercised; and when universal education, by really effective schools, was added to both, it seems as if the last needed ingredient was added to the popular character, to make ready the ways that lead to change. I think, therefore, the change will come when the affection and respect felt for the present King no longer stand in the way of it. His successor is said to be less inclined to a liberal system than his father, and the tutor and favorite Minister of the Prince, M. Ancillon, is known to be less so; but I think they must yield to the spirit of the times, or become its victims.

In Berlin there is a life and movement very striking to one who has just come, as we have, from the quietness of Dresden. Its external appearance is greatly changed since I was here about twenty years ago, when only a year had elapsed from the battle of Waterloo, and Prussia was but just beginning to feel the effects of her renewed strength and increased resources. . . . .

Of the society of Berlin, of course, I saw, properly speaking, nothing. . . . What I saw was sharply divided into two great political classes, and the expression of opinion on both sides was plain and free enough in conversation; but the censorship of books is severe, and the only newspaper printed in Berlin that is readable is carefully made up, and extremely dull, nothing being admitted into it that can displease the Ministry.

A long, curious, statistical sketch of the University of Berlin follows these remarks. On the 29th May, Mr. Ticknor and his family left Berlin, and on the 31st reached Dresden.

As we drove through its well-known, friendly streets, it seemed as if we were returning to a home, so natural and cheerful did everything appear to us. As we intended only to pass the night in Dresden, I went out immediately to see Tieck, whom I had promised to see again on our way to Vienna. By chance it was his birthday, and I found him surrounded by a large party of his friends, many of whom I knew perfectly well. It was an agreeable surprise to me to be

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