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[507] after dinner they all rose, crossed themselves, and stood an instant, as if to return thanks; and when we had come into the room where we took coffee, the family kissed one another and bowed to us. . . .

Later in the afternoon we crossed the river, and immediately began to ascend the steep side of the mountain opposite, on which the Count has had pleasant and convenient paths cut for several miles, with seats and arbors for rest, and for enjoying the views, which are constantly opening with great variety and beauty, up and down the Elbe. The ladies went only part of the way to the top, and then, returning by a different path, found carriages that took them across the river [in boats]. We went quite up, and enjoyed magnificent prospects. We passed through the deer-park,—or a portion of it,— through several plantations of trees of different sorts, and saw some of the arrangements of so large an estate. Everything was on a grand scale. The Herrschaft or Lordship of Tetschen, which extends over both sides of the Elbe, is about sixteen English miles square, comprising eighteen thousand inhabitants1. . . . .

We had frequent views of the castle, whose enormous size struck me more and more. . .. . I asked the Count how it came to be so vast. He said that anciently the magistrates of the town of Tetschen, who were appointed by the family, had their right of residence within its walls, and that when he came into possession, in 1808, he found five families, with their servants and equipages, regularly established in different parts of it. . . . . ‘So,’ he added, ‘I built them houses in the town which were so much better, that they were glad to exchange, and the consequence is that I have a larger castle than I want. However, it is full a good many times every year.’ This I knew already, for they are very hospitable. Last year the Emperor and Empress of Austria, the Emperor and Empress of Russia, the King of Prussia, and the Crown Prince, with Metternich, etc., came over from Toplitz and made a visit, so that at one time they had forty persons in the castle, no one of whom was below the rank of Prince. . . . . Our walk lasted between four and five hours, so that we did not reach the castle till half past 8 o'clock, which, however, was but just after sundown. . . . .

1 Mr. Ticknor says: ‘The family owns a still larger estate near Prague, and two other possessions elsewhere, so that it is very rich. Everything [about Tetschen] looked rich and flourishing; cotton manufactories have been established, potteries, etc., and the town within twenty years had nearly doubled its population.’ In the wars against Bonaparte, this Count Thun, then a young man, raised a regiment on his own estates, equipped it, offered it to the government, and commanded it through the campaign of Wagram.

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