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[335]

Give my best love to dear Lizzie. I am delighted to hear that she is so well. Let her keep gaining till I see her.

Yours very affectionately,


To Mrs. W. S. Dexter.

Milan, October 26, 1856.
Dearest Lizzie,—I thank your husband, through you, for a very kind and interesting letter that I received from him a few days ago, dated October 7. He writes to me always on important matters, which are rarely touched upon by my other friends, and never in a manner so satisfactory. I trust, therefore, that he will continue to tell me what he may be sure I should be glad to hear from anybody, and what I am particularly glad to learn from him. . . . .

We have done eminently well in our journeyings from Vienna to this place, and seen a great deal that interested us. Most of it was new to me, and much of it very remarkable. The passage of the Semmering—the first day after leaving Vienna—is one of the grandest things that can be seen anywhere. It almost-perhaps quite—proves that a railroad can be built over the Alps; and that people will go in four or five days to Rome from London,—a great matter for the Cockneys, who only care to be able to say they have been there, having little comprehension of what they see, and none at all of what they hear.

The journey by Gratz on the south side of the mountains—which was the counterpart to the one we made by Ischl and the Lakes, on the north side twenty years ago—was very fine. From Adelsberg to Venice, by Lend, through Friuli, was all new, likewise; and more than that, most of the way we travelled quite out of the reach of guide-books, and had a sense of discovery as we went along. It is a beautiful and very picturesque country, and we avoided, by passing through it, the passage in a steamboat from Trieste to Venice. . . . .

Since I wrote the two last pages I have been to high mass in the cathedral. The music was not much; but there must have been five thousand people at least present, and the scene was very grand and solemn, more so, I think, than the similar one is at St. Peter's. We had a very plain, good sermon on forgiveness of enemies, which, perhaps, half the audience could hear. But one thing I would desire to note on this occasion, viz. that, as I witnessed to-day, and have often witnessed before, the habit of spitting—with which we are so much


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