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[21]

Chapter 2:


Journal.

July 2.—This morning we left Vienna. . . . In the latter part of the forenoon we had fine views of the Danube, and the country beyond it. It is a grand river, rising in the square of the city of Donauschingen, in the Grand Duchy of Baden, entering Austria below Passau, and leaving it near Orsova, but not finally discharging itself into the Black Sea until it has had a course of fully 1,550 English miles. For Austria it is of vast consequence, and, with the progress of the arts and improvements of peace, will become every day of more consequence; for, by itself and its large tributaries, such as the Inn, the Traun, and the Enns, it embraces and binds together two thirds of the monarchy. . . .

We stopped for the night at St. Polten,1 . . . . a city of 4,000 inhabitants, well situated in the plain, and commanding fine views of the mountains of Styria, which we enjoyed from the public walk just outside the gate. While we were there, a procession of two hundred men, women, and children passed into the city, chanting hymns as they followed the banner of St. Hippolytus, the patron saint of their city. They were returning from the great monastery of Molk, fourteen English miles off, to which they had yesterday gone on a pilgrimage, to fulfil the vows of the city, made two hundred years ago, to avert a plague then raging among them, and which they fear may return if the vows be not annually accomplished. They had a picturesque look, and, as they passed bareheaded themselves, everybody took off their hats. . . . .

July 3.—We had another fine drive this morning, but a short one, of only about fourteen or fifteen English miles, through a rich and flourishing country, with the Styrian Mountains, still snow-clad, on


1 A corruption of St. Hippolytus.

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