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[81] the German artist, who has been copying in these very rooms ten years, and who is probably more familiar with the pictures they contain than any man alive, has told me this evening that they are much altered within these ten years. He says they were first put up in one of the long halls in the series where the tapestries now hang, and that there they suffered from the heat; and that where they are now they suffer from dampness, so that, as he says, those most acquainted with the matter are getting to be really anxious for their ultimate fate.

March 19.—Holy Week begins to-day, and, like all strangers, I suppose before it is over we are to sup full of ceremonies. This morning we went at half past 8 to the Sistine Chapel, and remained there till one o'clock,—the gentlemen standing the whole time,— to see the offices of Palm Sunday performed by the Pope. . . . .

March 22.—I went this morning with Mr.Gannett and Mrs. Gannett1 to see some of the principal churches and one or two remains of antiquity . . . . It was, however, the first day of the Miserere in the Sistine Chapel, and we drove to the Palazzo Massimo, where the indefatigable kindness of the old Princess had appointed a rendezvous for a few ladies, whom she was willing to carry under special favor and patronage to the Papal chapel, by a staircase different from the usual one. . . . . The Miserere, or the Fifty-first Psalm, . . . . closed the whole just as deep twilight came on, and lasted five-and-twenty minutes. It was no doubt very fine . . . . After it was over we went into St. Peters, . . . . and heard the latter part of a beautiful Miserere sung in the chapel of the choir, and walked up and down in the nave and aisles by the imperfect light of the few tapers that were scattered through the different parts of the vast pile, and seemed only to render the solemn darkness of the rest of it more visible and sensible . . . . .

March 24.—We passed a Roman forenoon again to-day, going to the grand ruins on the south side of the Palatine hill, including those in the Villa Mills, and returning by the Circus Maximus, the Temples of Vesta and Fortuna Virilis, the Ponte Rotto, the house called Rienzi's, and the Cloaca Maxima. . . .

April 6.—I went this morning to see Monsignor Mai, the famous discoverer of the Palimpsest manuscripts. It was not my first visit to him. . . . . He is now Secretary of the Propaganda, and likely before long to be made a Cardinal;2 an easy, round, but still intellectual-looking


1 Rev. E. S. Gannett and his wife were guests of Mr.Ticknor and Mrs. Ticknor, they having lately arrived from Boston.

2 He was made Cardinal the same year.

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