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Chapter 5:

A slow and lingering journey from Rome to Florence, by the Perugia route, in exquisite spring weather, could not be otherwise than delightful, and in Perugia Mr. and Mrs. Trevelyan added a zest to every pleasure by their presence. Mr.Ticknor and Mrs. Ticknor reached Florence on the 5th of May, and left it on the 20th.
Florence, May 6.—. . . . Having letters to them, I gave the evening to the Bonapartes. Louis—Count of St. Leu-lives in a good palazzo, Lunga Arno. I was received by two gentlemen in waiting, and found him in his salon; a fat, plethoric, easy old gentleman, nearly a fixture in his elbow-chair. He talked well enough, and very good-naturedly, about everything except French politics, in relation to which he was bitter, and accused the present government of a want of bonne foi et loyaute, accusations which sounded oddly from one of his name and kindred. Several persons came in, and I should think he leads an agreeable life here, in rather pleasant society. But I was vexed to have one Italian address him as Sua Maesta. The goodtem-pered Count cared so little about royalty when he was really a king, that I do not think he ought to permit himself to be poorly flattered now with the buried title.

At the Countess Survillier's—the wife of Joseph—I found much the same state of things, but perhaps a little more air of lady—like comfort and a little less ceremony. She is feeble, and is only seen wrapped in shawls on her sofa, where her daughter, the Princess Charlotte, is devoted to her. Everything about her seemed gentle and in good taste, and her manners were excellent. The Princess is plain in person and face, but has vivacity in conversation, and a good deal of talent in the arts. She is the widow of that son of Louis who died of wounds received in the insurrection of 1831, and is much loved and

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