Adam Badeau, Grant in peace: from Appomattox to Mount McGregor, a personal memoir

[301] degree that was a revelation of his character. I kept the alpenstock he carried that day, as a memento of my surprise. It stands in my library now—I can see it as I write,—by the coat that he slept in at Shiloh.

At Chamounix a St. Bernard dog was presented to him, only six weeks old, but he could not carry the creature with him around the world and ordered it sent to my house in London. There two months later the noble brute arrived. It has been one of my most constant companions since; it crossed the ocean with me, and even went to Cuba, far enough from its native snows; and more than once, as friend after friend proved false, the fond fidelity of Ponto has recalled the bitter words of De Stael: ‘The more I see of men, the better I appreciate dogs.’

Chamounix was hung with flags for the ex-President, and Mt. Blanc was illuminated. At night away up at the chalet where the climbers rest we saw a light gleaming over the snows which told that the Swiss mountaineers greeted the American democrat.

We descended, as I said, by the Tete Noire, and all through the great mountain gorge the plain, unsentimental soldier was fully alive to the majestic character of the landscape. From Vernayaz we had intended to return to Geneva, but after reaching the Gorge du Trient, we went up the valley of the Rhone to Brieg. Then we ascended the Simplon, and again Grant was deeply impressed and interested. He often left the carriage to walk, so as the better to drink in the grandeur. At the hospice of the Simplon the monks had heard of him; they got out their choicest home-made wine and spread their frugal lunch for the American commander.

So we went on to Italy, over the road built by another general: Grant everywhere enjoying the novelty, appreciating the scenery, studying the people. But he liked people always more than scenery, and the common people best