previous next

The last Paris fashions.

The latest Paris fashions are not of much importance in the Confederacy just now, but we give the following from Le Follet of January for the benefit of our fair readers, who may read it upon the same principle that they pore over the histories of the impossible heroes in their favorite novels, whose like they never expect (however earnestly they may hope) to see in real life:

‘ For toilettes de visite, moire, satin, faille silk (that is unwatered moire), taffetas antique, and velvet, are much worn. The figured morires are still in fashion, and require very little trimming. Passementerie with beads is much worn with silk; fur, lace or feather trimming is more suitable for satin and velvet.

’ Double skirts are often seen, either for visiting, dinner or ball dress. If closed all round, they are generally looped up; if open, the openings are at the back, as well as at the front. In many cases these skirts are made of different colors and materials, such as moire or satin over velvet, or two shades of the same color. This fashion of wearing double skirts is much adopted for ball dresses, the underskirt generally being white and the tunic of color. The low body, with coat hasques, will be much worn if the dress is of silk. This corsage can be made of black velvet, handsomely trimmed with jet beads or seed pearls.

The sorties de bal have not altered much in form, the circular being the favorite shape. This, if made in white plush, with a thick Hama or chenille fringe, is very elegant and suitable to the seasons. Many opera cloaks that we have seen were of scarlet, trimmed with black lace, or embroidered in black and white floss silks. The little hoods, now worn over the head-dress during the transit to and from the carriage, are very pretty, and in many cases becoming. --We give the preference to the Marie Stuart shape, with a deep curtain falling over the shoulders. If these are made in lace or some transparent materials, they are, of course, lined to match the dress or cloak which they accompany.

The most elegant cloaks for morning wear are made of the "Mount Saint Bernard" cloth; the half fitting paletot being the most fashionable form for this material. If made in white, these cloaks are excessively distingue, but only suitable for carriage and quiet dress wear.

Mantles of velvet pile or cloth are trimmed with passementerie or the curly Astrakan; other furs and feather ornaments being reserved for velvet. Beaded passementerie is very successfully employed with guipure on both dresses and cloaks.

Last winter, the cloaks that were trimmed with fur had one rouleau only. This season the cloaks are edged with a deep band of fur; the revers, collar and epaulette are also of fur. We have seen one half-fitting paletot of violet velvet, trimmed with a broad band of Chinchilla; a deep pelerine of the same, pointed at the back and front. Small epaulette and cuffs of the same fur.--This paletot was lined with quilted white silk, and was intended to be worth with a violet velvet dress, trimmed with a band of Chinchilla, carried round the skirt and up the back seam. The bonnet was of violet velvet, the crown being formed of drooping white feathers. The muff of violet quilted satin, edged with Chinchilla. The boots of violet velvet, with band of fur round the ankle.

Bonnets have not altered in form since we last wrote on the subject, the curtain having entirely disappeared.

Ball coiffures are more elegant than ever. Holly, with berries and icicles of glass, forms a very pretty and suitable head-dress for this season. In fact, no wreath or flower head-dress is considered complete without these icicles or dewdrops.

For elderly ladies, the Fanchon of lace over flowers and blonde is the prevailing style.

Blue poplin dress, so gored as to be nearly plain round the waist. The skirt scalloped round the bottom, and edged with thick twisted slid cord. The body is made with four points, one in front, another at the back, and one on each side; the cord carried around the waist and fastened by a tassel at each point. Across the front are three rows of cord, fastened on the shoulder by an ornament and tassels. This dress was to be worn with a black velvet pile jacket ornamented with black cords. The bonnet prepared to accompany it was of quilted blue satin, with a Fanchon of black velvet.

We have seen several very elegant ball dresses, from which we select the following:

White silk skirt bouillonnee up to the knee. These bouillons of tulle are put on in a slanting direction. Above this skirt is worn a tunic of white tulle, of the same length as the underskirt, and looped up with strings of pearl. At the right side is a long spray of fern leaves and dewdrops, fastened at the waist, and descending to support the tunic.

’ The body is of white tulle, draped with ceinture Suisse of white silk, edged top and bottom with a narrow row of fern leaves. The fan to be used with this dress was also made in imitation of fern leaves.

Another, for morning wear, was of mauve tulle, with five very narrow fluted flounces, edged alternately with white and black blonde. Three of these flounces were carried up each seam. --The tunic was of mauve silk, open at each side, where it was faced across by white and black blondes, spangled with white bugles. The body was also of mauve silk, trimmed with black and white blonde. The opera cloak, to be worn with this dress, of Yak lace, over mave silk.

Another was of black tulle, over black satin, with four bouillounes of the same; on these were fastened small bunches of gold grapes and leaves. These bouillonnes were continued quite up the front breadth. Over this skirt was a tunic of black satin, open in front and very long behind, embroidered all round in gold embroidery of grapes and leaves. The body was of black tulle and satin, with ornaments of gold grapes on the shoulders.

The wide waistbands so much in favor a little while ago are rapidly disappearing, and giving place to those of a medium-size. When the wide ones are used, they are mostly fastened at the back or sides with a rosette instead of a buckle. The sashes are still fastened in the same manner, and have very wide ends.

We have seen two or three lace coats, intended to be worn over low bodies.--One of the low black velvet bodies intended for evening wear had no sleeves, and was pointed at the top and bottom. A deep lace was carried round the waist, and formed into the coat basque as the back. This body was intended to be worn over a white satin dress, trimmed with black lace and pearls.

There is no alteration in the form of cuffs and collars at present; they are still embroidered with white or colored bees, butterflies, flours de lis, etc. The most fashionable ornament at the present moment is in the shape of a swallow.

Crests and initials are sometimes embroidered on cuffs and collars, as well as handkerchiefs, the latter being very handsome, though our elegantes have at length understood that these articles are for the pocket, and so longer display them in the hand.

Small veils are much worn, and appear likely to continue in favor.

We are very happy to see the decided return of necklaces; they are not confined to evening wear, but accompany morning toilets, though, of course, in a modified form. The long chains of beads have become excessively vulgar; one row close round the throat, with a medallion, is sometimes worn. But the most elegant of these collars are of plain ribbon velvet, fastened with a shape, and ornamented with gold coins, small sprays of steel-work. Cameo or portrait medallions are much worn; they are suspended from the collar or from a small chain.

The vestes Russes are much in fashion; they are made for either simple or elegant toilets. We have seen several dresses of moire or light satin, made with these jackets, accompanied by the chemisette Russes. These, if intended to be worn with silk or dressy materials, are made of tulle, or very fine muslin, with lace insertions; or with trills of lace and open-work insertions, in which are cerise colored velvets. Some are made of black and white lace, others entirely of English point. If intended for demitoilet, they are in foulard or cachemire, trimmed with the cachemire braid so much in vogue.

Lingerie for toilettes de ville is still linen or batiste, embroidered with simple Valenciennes, either edging or insertion, the collars still very small; the cravats of silk, in cashmere pattern.

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 United States License.

An XML version of this text is available for download, with the additional restriction that you offer Perseus any modifications you make. Perseus provides credit for all accepted changes, storing new additions in a versioning system.

hide Places (automatically extracted)

View a map of the most frequently mentioned places in this document.

Sort places alphabetically, as they appear on the page, by frequency
Click on a place to search for it in this document.
Saint Bernard (Ohio, United States) (1)
hide People (automatically extracted)
Sort people alphabetically, as they appear on the page, by frequency
Click on a person to search for him/her in this document.
Paris (2)
White (1)
Valenciennes (1)
Holly (1)
Le Follet (1)
hide Dates (automatically extracted)
Sort dates alphabetically, as they appear on the page, by frequency
Click on a date to search for it in this document.
January (1)
hide Display Preferences
Greek Display:
Arabic Display:
View by Default:
Browse Bar: