A description of the yeerely voyage or pilgrimage of the Mahumitans, Turkes and Moores unto Mecca
in Arabia
.
ALEXANDRIA the most ancient citie in Africa
situated by
the seaside containeth seven miles in circuite, and is
environed with two walles one neere to the other with high
towers, but the walles within be farre higher then those
without, with a great ditch round about the same: yet is
not this Citie very strong by reason of the great antiquitie,
being almost halfe destroyed and ruinated. The greatnesse of this Citie is such, that if it were of double habitation, as it is compassed with a double wall, it might be
truely said, that there were two Alexandrias one builded
upon another, because under the foundations of the saide
City are great habitations, and incredible huge pillers.
True it is, that this part underneath remaineth at this day
inhabitable, because of the corrupt aire, as also for that
by time, which consumeth all things, it is greatly ruinated.
It might well be sayd, that the founder hereof, as he was
worthy in all his enterprises, so likewise in building hereof
he did a worke worthy of himselfe, naming it after his
owne name. This Citie hath one defect, for it is subject
to an evill ayre, which onely proceedeth of that hollownesse
underneath, out of the which issueth infinite moisture:
and that this is true the ayre without doth evidently testifie,
which is more subtile and holesome then that beneath.
The waters hereof be salt, by reason that the soile of it
selfe is likewise so. And therefore the inhabitants, at
such time as the river Nilus floweth, are accustomed to
open a great ditch, the head wherof extendeth into the
said river, and from thence they conveigh the same within
halfe a mile of Alexandria, and so consequently by meanes
of conduct-pipes the water commeth unto the cesternes of
Alexandria, which being full serve the citie from one
inundation to another. Within the citie is a Pyramide
mentioned of in Histories, but not of great importance.
Without the citie is La colonna di Pompeio, or the pillar
of Pompey, being of such height and thicknesse, that it
is supposed there is not the like in the whole world
besides. Within the citie there is nothing of importance
save a litle castle which is guarded with 60 Janizaries.
Alexandria hath three portes, one towardes Rossetto,
another to the land ward, & the third to the sea ward,
which is called Babelbar, without which appeareth a broad
Iland called. Ghesira in the Moores tongue, which is not
wholy an Iland, because a litle point or corner thereof
toucheth the firme lande, and therefore may be called
Peninsula, that is to say, almost an Iland. Hereupon are
builded many houses of the Jewes, in respect of the aire
This Peninsula is situate betweene two very good ports,
one of them being much more safe then the other, called
The old port, into the which only the vessels of Barbarie,
and the sixe Gallies of the Grand Signior deputeth for
the guard of Alexandria doe enter. And this port hath
upon the right hand at the mouth or enterance thereof a
castle of small importance, and guarded but with fifteene
men or thereabouts. On the other side of this Iland is
the other called The new port, which name is not unfitly
given unto it, for that in all mens judgement in times
past there hath not beene water there, because in the
midst of this port, where the water is very deepe, there
are discovered and found great sepulchres and other
buildings, out of the which are dayly digged with engines
Jaspar and Porphyrie stones of great value, of the which
great store are sent to Constantinople for the ornament
of the Mesquitas or Turkish Temples, and of other buildings of the Grand Signior. Into this port enter all such
vessels as traffique to this place. This port hath on ech
side a castle, whereof that upon the Peninsula is called
Faraone, upon the toppe whereof every night there is a
light set in a great lanterne for direction of the ships,
and for the guard thereof are appointed 200 Janizaries:
the other on the other side is but a litle castle kept by
18 men. It is certaine, that this haven of Alexandria is
one of the chiefest havens in the world: for hither come
to traffique people of every Nation, and all sorts of vessels
which goe round about the citie. It is more inhabited
by strangers, marchants, and Christians, then by men of
the countrey which are but a few in number. Within
the citie are five Fontechi, that is to say, one of the
Frenchmen, where the Consul is resident, & this is the
fairest and most commodious of all the rest. Of the
other foure, two belong to the Venetians, one to the
Raguseans, and the fourth to the Genoueses. And all
strangers which come to traffique there, except the
Venetians, are under the French Consull. It is also to
be understood, that all the Christians dwell within their
Fontechi, and every evening at the going downe of the
sunne, they which are appointed for that office goe about
and shut all the gates of the saide Fontechi outward, and
the Christians shut the same within: and so likewise they
doe on the Friday (which is the Moores and the Turkes
Sabboth) till their devotions be expired. And by this
meanes all parties are secure and voide of feare: for in
so doing the Christians may sleepe quietly and not feare
robbing, and the Moores neede not doubt whiles they
sleepe or pray, that the Christians should make any
tumult, as in times past hath happened.
Of the Coast of Alexandria.
ON the side towardes Barbarie along the sea-coast for
a great space there is founde neither hold, nor any thing
worthy of mention : but on the other side towards Syria
13 miles from Alexandria standeth a litle castle called
Bichier kept by fiftie Turkes, which castle is very olde
and weake, and hath a port which in times past was good,
but at this present is utterly decayed and full of sand,
so that the vessels which come thither dare not come
neere the shoare, but ride far off into the sea. Fortie
miles further is Rossetto, which is a litle towne without
walles, and is situate upon the banke of Nilus three miles
from the sea, at which place many times they build ships
and other vessels, for governement whereof is appointed
a Sanjacbey, without any other guard: it is a place of
traffique, and the inhabitants are very rich, but naughtie
varlets and traytours. Further downe along the sea-side
and the river banke is another litle castle like unto the
abovesayde, and because the Moores beleeve, that Mecca
will in short time be conquered by the Christians, they
holde opinion, that the same being lost shall be renued
in this place of Rossetto, namely, that all their prayers,
vowes, and pilgrimages shall be transported to Rossetto,
as the religious order of Saint John of the Rhodes is
translated thence to Malta
. Further forwarde thirtie
miles standes another castle of small importance called
Brulles, kept continually by fourtie Turkes, which hath
a good and secure port, in forme like to a very great
lake or ponde, wherein is taken great quantitie of fish,
which they salt, and the marchants of Candie and Cyprus
come thither to lade the same, and it is greatly esteemed,
especially of the Candiots, who having great abundance
of wine adventure abroad to seeke meate fitte for the
taste of the savd wine. Distant from Brulles five and
thirtie miles there is another castle like unto the abovesayd kept by an Aga with fourtie men or thereabout.
More within the lande by the rivers side is Damiata an
auncient citie environed with walles contayning five miles
in circuit, and but of small strength. For the governement of this place is a Sanjaco with all his housholde and
no other companie. This citie is very large, delightfull,
and pleasant, abounding with gardens and faire fountaines. Other fortie miles further is Latma, a castle of
very small importance, and kept as other with fortie
Turkes under an Aga. In this place is no port, but a
roade very daungerous, and without other habitation.
Passing this place we enter Judea
. But because our
intent is to reason simply of the voyage to Mecca
, we
will proceede no further this way, but returning to our
first way, let it suffice to say, that from Alexandria to
Cairo
are two hundred miles, in which way I finde nothing
woorthie of memorie.
Of the mightie Citie of Cairo.
CAIRO
containeth in circuit eighteene miles, being so
inhabited and replenished with people, that almost it
cannot receive more; and therefore they have begunne
to builde newe houses without the citie and about the
walles. In Cairo
are people of all Nations, as Christians,
Armenians, Abexins, Turkes, Moores, Jewes, Indians,
Medians, Persians, Arabians, and other sortes of people,
which resort thither by reason of the great traffique.
This citie is governed by a Basha, which ministreth
justice, together with the Cadie throughout the whole
kingdome. Also there are two and twentie Sanjackes,
whose office is onely to oversee and guarde the kingdome
for every good respect. There are also seven thousand
Turkes in pay, to wit, three thousand Janizaries, and
foure thousand horsemen: The rest of the people in Cairo
are for the most part marchants which goe and come, and
the remnant are Moores and other base people. About
two miles from Cairo
there is another little Cairo
called
The olde Cairo
, which containeth in circuit litle more
then tenne miles, and the better halfe is not inhabited,
but destroyed, whereof I neede not make any other mention. The new Cairo
answereth every yeere in tribute
to the grand Signior, 600000 ducates of golde, neat and
free of all charges growing on the same, which money
is sent to Constantinople, about the fine of September,
by the way of Aleppo, alwayes by lande, under the
custodie of three hundred horsemen and two hundred
Janizaries footmen. The citie of Cairo is adorned with
many faire Mesquitas rich, great, and of goodly and
gorgeous building, among which are five principall. The
first is called Morastano, that is to say, The hospitall,
which hath of rent five hundred ducats of golde every
day left unto it by a king of Damasco
from auncient
times; which king having conquered Cairo
, for the space
of five dayes continually put the people thereof to the
sword, and in the end repenting him of so great manslaughter, caused this cruelty to cease, and to obtaine
remission for his sinne committed, caused this hospitall
to be built, enriching it as is abovesaid. The second
famous monument of Cairo
is called Neffisa, of one Neffisa
buried there, who was a Dame of honour, and mooved
by lust, yeelded her body voluntarily without rewarde,
to any that required the same, and sayde she bestowed
this almes for the love of her Prophet Mahomet, and
therefore at this day they adore her, reverence her, and
finally have canonized her for a Saint, affirming that shee
did many miracles. The third is called Zavia della Innachari, who was one of the foure Doctors in the law. The
fourth is called Imamsciafii, where is buried Sciafii the
second Doctor of this law. Of the other two Doctors
one is buried in Damasco
, the other in Aleppo. The fift
& last famous monument is Giamalazar, that is, the house
of Lazarus: and this is the generall University of the
whole kingdome of Egypt
. In this place Anno 1566 in
the moneth of January by misfortune of fire were burned
nine thousand bookes of great value, as well for that they
were written by hand, as also wrought so richly with
golde, that they were worth 300 and 400 ducats a piece,
one with another. And because it could never be knowen
yet how this fire beganne, they have and doe holde the
same for a most sinister augurie, and an. evident and
manifest signe of their utter ruine. The houses of Cairo
without are very faire, & within the greater number richly
adorned with hangings wrought with golde. Every person which resorteth to this place for traffiques sake, is
bound to pay halfe a duckat, except the gentlemen
Venetians, Siotes, and Rhaguseans, because they are
tributarie to the Grand Signior. Cairo
is distant from
the river Nilus a mile and more, being situate on a plaine,
save that on the one side if hath a faire little hill, on
the toppe whereof stands a faire castle, but not strong,
for that it may be battered on every side, but very rich
& large, compassed about with faire gardens into the
which they conveigh water for their necessitie out of
Nilus, with certaine wheeles & other like engines. This
magnificent citie is adorned with very fruitfull gardens
both pleasant and commodious, with great plenty of
pondes to water the same. Notwithstanding the great
pleasures of Cairo
are in the moneth of August, when
by meanes of the great raine in Ethiopia
the river Nilus
overfloweth and watereth all the countrey, and then they
open the mouth of a great ditch, which extendeth into
the river, and passeth through the midst of the citie, and
entring there are innumerable barkes rowing too and fro
laden with gallant girles and beautifull dames, which with
singing, eating, drinking and feasting, take their solace.
The women of this country are most beautifull, and goe
in rich attire bedecked with gold, pretious stones, and
jewels of great value, but chiefely perfumed with odours,
and are very libidinous, and the men likewise, but foule
and hard favoured. The soile is very fertile and abundant, the flesh fat which they sell without bones, their
candles they make of the marowe of cattell, because the
Moores eate the tallow. They use also certaine litle furnaces made of purpose, under the which they make fire,
putting into the furnace foure or five hundred egges, and
the said fire they nourish by litle and litle, untill the
chickens be hatched, which after they be hatched, and
become somewhat bigger, they sell them by measure in
such sort, as we sell and measure nuts and chestnuts and
such like.
Of certaine notable monuments without the citie of
Cairo
.
WITHOUT the Citie, sixe miles higher into the land, are
to be seene neere unto the river diverse Piramides, among
which are three marvellous great, and very artificially
wrought. Out of one of these are dayly digged the bodies
of auncient men, not rotten but all whole, the cause
whereof is the qualitie of the Egyptian soile, which will
not consume the flesh of man, but rather dry and harden
the same, and so alwayes conserveth it. And these dead
bodies are the Mummie which the Phisitians and Apothecaries doe against our willes make us to swallow. Also
by digging in these Pyramides oftentimes are found
certaine Idoles or Images of golde, silver, and other
mettall, but under the other piramides the bodies are not
taken up so whole as in this, but there are found legges
and armes comparable to the limmes of giants. Neare
to these piramides appeareth out of the sand a great
head of stone somewhat like marble, which is discovered
so farre as the necke joyneth with the shoulders, being
all whole, saving that it wanteth a little tippe of the
nose. The necke of this head contayneth in circuit about
sixe and thirty foot, so that it may be according to the
necke considered, what greatnesse the head is of. The
river Nilus is a mile broad, wherein are very many great
Croccodiles from Cairo
upward, but lower then Cairo
passeth no such creature: and this, they say, is by reason
of an inchantment made long since which hindereth their
passage for comming any lower then Cairo
. Moreover
of these creatures there are sometimes found some of an
incredible bignesse, that is to say, of fourtie foot about.
The males have their members like to a man, and the
females like to a woman. These monsters oftentimes
issue out of the water to feede, and finding any small
beasts, as sheepe, lambes, goates, or other like, doe great
harme. And whiles they are foorth of the water, if they
happen at unwares upon any man, woman or childe,
whom they can overcome, they spare not their lives. In
the yeere of our Lorde one thousand five hundred and
sixtie it happened, that certaine poore Christians travelling by Cairo
towardes the countrey of Prete Janni to
rescue certaine slaves, were guided by a Chaus, and
journeyed alongst the banke of the said river. The Chaus
remained lingering alone behinde to make his prayers (as
their custome is) at a place called Tana, whom being
busie in his double devotion one of these Crocodiles ceazed
by the shoulders, and drew him under water, so that he
was never after seene. And for this cause they have
made in sundry places certaine hedges as bankes within
the water, so that betwixt the hedge and banke of the
river there remaineth so much water, that the women
washing may take water without danger at their pleasure.
This countrey is so fruitfull, that it causeth the women
as also other creatures to bring foorth one, two, and
oft-times three at a birth. Five miles southwarde of
Cairo
is a place called Matarea, where the balme is
refined : and therefore some will say, that the trees which
beare the balme growe in the said place, wherein they
are deceived: for the sayde trees growe two dayes
journey from Mecca
, in a place called Bedrihone, which
yeeldeth balme in great plenty, but salvage, wilde, and
without vertue, and therefore the Moores carying the
same within litle chests from Bedrihone to Matarea, where
the trees being replanted (be it by vertue of the soyle,
or the water, aire, or any other thing whatsoever) it
sufficeth that here they beare the true balme and licour
so much in these dayes esteemed of. In this place of
Matarea there are certaine little houses, with most goodly
gardens, and a chappell of antiquity, where the very
Moores themselves affirme, that the mother of the blessed
Christ fleeing from the fury of wicked Herode there saved
her selfe with the childe, wherein that saying of the
Prophet was fulfilled, Ex Ægypto vocavi filium meum.
The which Chappell in the yeare of our Lorde one
thousand five hundred and foure, the Magnifico Daniel
Barbaro first Consull of that place went to visite, and
caused it to be renued and reedified, so that in these dayes
there resort thither many Christians, who oftentimes
bring with them a Priest, to say masse there. Also about
an Harquebuz-shotte from Matarea is a spire of great
height like to that at Rome, and more beautifull to
beholde. Neere unto the olde Cairo
are yet twelve storehouses of great antiquitie, but now very much decayed,
and these till late dayes served to keepe come for behoofe
of the kingdome, concerning which many are of opinion,
that the founder hereof was Joseph the sonne of Jacob,
for consideration of the seven deare yeeres. Also passing
higher up by the banke of Nilus, there is to bee seene
a fayre Citie overflowed with water, the which at such
time as Nilus floweth lyeth under water, but when the
water returneth to the marke, there plainely appeare
princely palaces, and stately pillars, being of some called
Thebes
, where they say that Pharao was resident. Moreover three dayes journey higher up are two great images
of speckled marble, all whole, and somewhat sunke into
the earth, being things wonderfull to consider of, for the
nose of either is two spannes and an halfe long, and the
space from one eare to the other conteineth tenne spannes,
the bodies being correspondent to their heads, and graven
in excellent proportion, so that they are shapes of marvellous hugenesse, and these they call The wife, and The
daughter of Pharao.
Of the patriarke of Greece
.
IN Cairo
are two Patriarkes, one of the Greekes, and
another of the Jacobites. The Greeke Patriarke called
Gioechni, being about the age of one hundred and
thirteene yeeres, was a very good and holy man. They
say, that when Soldan Gauri of Egypt reigned, there was
done this miracle following: this good patriarke being
envied at by the Jewes of the country, for none other
cause, but for his good workes, and holy life, it happened
(I say) that being in disputation with certaine of the
Hebrewes in presence of the Sultan, and reasoning of
their lawe and faith, it was sayd unto him by one of these
Miscreants : sith thou beleevest in the faith of Christ,
take and drinke this potion which I will give thee; and
if thy Christ be true Messias and true God, he will (sayd
he) deliver thee from daunger. To whom the auncient
patriarke answered, that he was content: whereupon that
cursed Jewe brought him a cuppe of the most venemous
and deadly poyson that could be found, which the holy
Patriarke having perceived, said: In the name of the
father, of the sonne, and of the holy Ghost: and having
so sayde he dranke it quite up; which done, he tooke
a droppe of pure water, putting it into that very cup, and
gave it unto the Jewe, saying unto him, I in the name
of my Christ have drunke thy poyson, and therefore in
the name of thy expected Messias, drinke this water of
mine within thine owne cuppe. Whereupon the Jewe
tooke the cup out of the hand of the Patriarke, and
having drunke the water, within halfe an houre burst a
sunder. And the Patriarke had none other hurt, save
that he became somewhat pale in sight, and so remained
ever after. And this miracle (which meriteth to be called
no lesse) was done to the great commendation of the holy
Patriarke in the presence of a thousand persons, and
namely of the Soldan of Egypt: who seeing the despight
of the Jewes, unto their owne cost and confusion compelled them to make the conduct, which with so many
engines commeth into the castle from Nilus above mentioned. And this triumphant Patriarke not long since
was alive, and in perfect health, which God continue
long time.
Of the preparation of the Carovan to goe to Mecca
.
As touching the Carovan which goeth to Mecca
, it is
to be understoode, that the Mahumetans observe a kinde
of lent continuing one whole moone, and being a moveable
ceremonie, which sometimes falleth high, sometimes lowe
in the yeere called in their tongue Ramazan, and their
feast is called Bairam. During this time of lent all they
which intende to goe unto Mecca
resort unto Cairo
,
because that twentie dayes after the feast the Carovan
is readie to depart on the voyage: and thither resort a
great multitude of people from Asia, Grecia
, and Barbaria
to goe on this voyage, some mooved by devotion, and
some for traffiques sake, and some to passe away the
time. Nowe within fewe dayes after the feast they which
goe on the voyage depart out of the citie two leagues
unto a place called Birca, where they expect the Captaine
of the Carovan. This place hath a great pond caused
by the inundation of Nilus, and so made, that the camels
and other beastes may drinke therein: whereof, namely,
of Mules, Camels, and Dromedaries there are at least
fortie thousand, and the persons which followe the Carovan everie yeere are about fiftie thousand, fewe more or
lesse, according to the times. Moreover every three
yeeres they renue the Captaine of the Carovan, called
in the Arabian tongue Amarilla Haggi, that is, the Captaine of the Pilgrimes, to whom the Grand Signior giveth
every voiage eighteene purses, conteyning each of them
sixe hundred twentie and five ducates of golde, and these
be for the behoofe of the Carovan, and also to doe almes
unto the needfull pilgrimes. This Captaine, besides other
servingmen which follow him, hath also foure Chausi to
serve him. Likewise he hath with him for the securitie
of the Carovan foure hundred souldiers, to wit, two
hundred Spachi or horsemen mounted on Dromedaries,
and two hundred Janizaries riding upon Camels. The Chausi and the Spachi are at the charge of the Captaine,
but the Janizaries not so, for their provision is made them
from Cairo
. The Spachi weare caps or bonnets like to
the caps of Sergeants, but the Janizaries after another
sort, with a lappe falling downe behinde like a Frenchhoode, and having before a great piece of wrought silver
on their heads. The charge of these is to cause the
Carovan to march in good array when neede requireth;
these are not at the commaundement of any but of the
Captaine of the Carovan. Moreover the Captaine hath
for his guide eight pilots, the office of whom is alwayes
stable and firme from heire to heire, and these goe before
guiding the Carovan, and shewing the way, as being well
experienced in the place, and in the night they governe
them as the mariners, by the starre. These also use to
sende before foure or five men carrying pieces of dry
wood which give light, because they should not goe out
of the way, and if at any time through their ill hap they
wander astray out of the way, they are cast downe and
beaten with so many bastonadoes upon the soles of their
feete, as serve them for a perpetuall remembrance. The
Captaine of the Carovan hath his Lieutenant accompanied
continually with fifteene Spachi, and he hath the charge
to set the Carovan in order, and to cause them to depart
on their journey when neede requireth: and during the
voyage their office is some whiles to goe before with the
forewarde, sometimes to come behinde with the rereward,
sometimes to march on the one side, and sometimes on
the other, to spy, that the coast be cleare. The Carovan
carrieth with it sixe pieces of ordinance drawen by 12
camels, which serve to terrifie the Arabians, as also to
make triumph at Mecca
, and other places. The marchants which followe the Carovan, some carry for
marchandise cloth of silke, some Corall, some tinne,
others wheat, rise, and all sorts of graine. Some sell
by the way, some at Mecca
, so that every one bringeth
something to gaine by, because all marchandise that
goeth by land payeth no custome, but that which goeth
by sea is bound to pay tenne in the hundred.
The beginning of the voyage.
THE feast before the Carovan setteth forth, the Captaine
with all his retinue and officers resort unto the castle of
Cairo
before the Basha, which giveth unto every man a
garment, and that of the Captaine is wrought with golde,
and the others are served according to their degree.
Moreover he delivereth unto him ye Chisva Talnabi,
which signifieth in the Arabian tongue, The garment of
the Prophet: this vesture is of silke, wrought in the
midst with letters of gold, which signifie: La illa ill' alla
Mahumet Resullala: that is to say, There are no gods
but God, and his ambassadour Mahumet. This garment
is made of purpose to cover from top to botome a litle
house in Mecca
standing in the midst of the Mesquita,
the which house (they say) was builded by Abraham or
by his sonne Ismael. After this he delivereth to him a
gate made of purpose for the foresaid house of Abraham
wrought all with fine golde, and being of excellent workmanship, and it is a thing of great value. Besides, he
delivereth unto him a covering of greene velvet made in
maner of a pyramis, about nine palmes high, and artificially wrought with most fine golde, and this is to cover
the tombe of their prophet within Medina, which tombe
is built in manner of a pyramis : and besides that covering
there are brought many others of golde and silke, for
the ornament of the sayde tombe. Which things being
consigned, the Basha departeth not from his place; but
the Captaine of the Carovan taketh his leave with all his
officers and souldiers, and departeth accompanied with all
the people of Cairo
orderly in manner of a procession,
with singing, shouting and a thousand other ceremonies
too long to recite. From the castle they goe to a gate
of the citie called Bab-Nassera, without the which
standes a Mosquita, and therein they lay up the sayd
vestures very well kept and guarded. And of this ceremony they make so great account, that the world commeth
to see this sight, yea the women great with childe, and
others with children in their armes, neither is it lawfull
for any man to forbid his wife the going to this feast,
for that in so doing the wife may separate her selfe from
her husband, and may lie with any other man, in regard
of so great a trespasse. Now this procession proceeding
from the castle towardes the Mosquita, the Camels which
bring the vestures are all adorned with cloth of golde,
with many little belles, and passing along the streete you
may see the multitude casting upon the said vestures
thousands of beautifull flowers of divers colours, & sweete
water, others bringing towels & fine cloth touch the same,
which ever after they keepe as reliques with great reverence. Afterward having left the vesture in the Mosquita,
as is aforesaid, they returne againe into the citie, where
they remaine the space of 200 dayes, and then the captaine
departeth with his company, and taking the vestures out
of the Mosquita, carieth the same to the foresaid place of
Birca, where the Captaine having pitched his tent with
the standard of the grand Signior over the gate, & the
other principall tents standing about his, stayeth there
some tenne dayes and no more: in which time all those
resort thither that meane to follow the Carovan in this
voyage to Mecca
. Where you shall see certaine women
which intend to goe on this voiage accompanied with
their parents and friends mounted upon Camels, adorned
with so many tryfles, tassels, and knots, that in beholding
the same a man cannot refraine from laughter. The last
night before their departure they make great feasting and
triumph within the Carovan, with castles and other
infinite devises of fireworke, the Janizaries alwayes standing round about the tent of the Captaine with such
shouting and joy, that on every side the earth resoundeth,
and this night they discharge all their ordinance, foure
or sixe times, and after at the breake of the day upon
the sound of a trumpet they march forward on their
way.
What times the Carovan travelleth, and when it
resteth.
IT is to be noted, that from Cairo
to Mecca
they make
40 dayes journey or thereabout, & the same great dayes
journeies. For the custome of the Carovan is to travell
much and rest little, and ordinarily they journey in this
maner: They travell from two a clocke in the morning
untill the sunne rising, then having rested till noone, they
set forward, and so continue till night, & then also rest
againe, as is abovesaid, till two of the clocke: and this
order they observe untill the end of the voiage, never
changing the same, except in some places, whereof we
will hereafter speake, where for respect of water they rest
sometimes a day and an halfe, and this they observe to
refresh themselves, otherwise both man and beast would
die.
In what order the Carovan travelleth.
THE maner and order which the Carovan observeth in
marching is this. It goeth divided into three parts, to
wit, the foreward, the maine battell, and the rereward.
In the foreward go the 8 Pilots before with a Chaus,
which hath foure knaves, & ech knave carrieth a sinew of
a bul, to the end that if occasion requireth, ye bastonado
may be given to such as deserve the same. These knaves
cast offendours downe, turning up the soles of their feete
made fast to a staffe, giving them a perpetuall remembrance for them & the beholders. This Chaus is as the
Captaine of the foreward, which commandeth lights to be
carried before when they travell in the night. Also there
go in this foreward 6 Santones with red turbants upon
their heads, & these eat and ride at the cost of the Captaine of the Carovan. These Santones when the Carovan
arriveth at any good lodging, suddenly after they have
escried the place, cry with an horrible voyce saying, good
cheare, good cheare, we are neere to the wished lodging.
For which good newes the chiefe of the company bestow
their benevolence upon them. In this foreward goeth
very neere the third part of the people of the Carovan,
behind whom go alwayes 25 Spachi armed with swords,
bowes & arrowes to defend them from thieves. Next
unto the foreward, within a quarter of a mile, followeth
the maine battell, and before the same are drawen the
sayd sixe pieces of ordinance, with their gunners, and
fifteene Spachi Archers. And next unto these commeth
the chiefe physicion, who is an olde man of authoritie,
having with him many medicines, oyntments, salves, and
other like refreshings for the sicke, having also camels
with him for the sicke to ride on, which have no horse
nor beast. Next unto him goeth one Camell alone, the
fairest that can be found: for with great industrie is
sought the greatest and fairest which may be found
within the dominions of the Grand Signior. This camell
also is decked with cloth of golde and silke, and carieth
a litle chest made of pure Legmame made in likenesse of
the arke of the olde Testament: but, as is abovesayd,
made of pure Legmame, without golde or any other thing
of cost. Within this chest is the Alcoran all written
with great letters of golde, bound betweene two tables
of massie golde, and the chest during their voyage is
covered with Silke, but at their entring into Mecca
it is
all covered with cloth of golde, adorned with jewels, and
the like at the enterance into Medina. The Camell aforesayd which carrieth the chest, is compassed about with
many Arabian singers and musicians, alwayes singing
and playing upon instruments. After this folow fifteene
other most faire Camels, every one carying one of the
abovesayd vestures, being covered from toppe to toe with
silke. Behind these goe twentie other Camels which
carrie the money, apparell, and provision of the Amir el
Cheggi captaine of the Carovan. After foloweth the
royall Standard of the grand Signior, accompanied continually with the musicians of the captaine, and five and
twentie Spachi archers, with a Chaus before them, and
about these marvellous things goe all the people and
Camels which follow the Carovan. Behind these, lesse
then a mile, foloweth the rereward, whereof the greater
part are pilgrimes: the occasion whereof is, for that the
merchants seeke alwayes to be in the foreward for the
securitie of their goods, but the pilgrimes which have litle
to loose care not though they come behind. Behind these
alwayes goe five and twentie other Spachi well armed
with another Chaus their captaine, and fortie Arabians
all Archers for guard of the rereward. And because the
Carovan goeth alwayes along the
red sea banke, which
in going forth they have on their right hand, therfore the
two hundred Janissaries parted into three companies goe
upon their left hand well armed and mounted upon
Camels bound one to another, for upon that side is all
the danger of thieves, and on the other no danger at all,
the captaine of the Carovan alwayes going about his
people, sometimes on the one side, and sometimes on the
other, never keeping any firme place, being continually
accompanied with a Chaus and 25. Spachi, armed and
mounted upon Dromedaries, and 8. musicians with violes
in their handes, which cease not sounding till the captaine
take his rest, upon whom they attend, till such time
as he entreth his pavillion, and then licencing all his
attendants and folowers to depart, they goe each man to
their lodging.
Of things notable which are seene in this voyage by
the way.
BECAUSE in the way there are not many things found
woorthie memorie, for that the Carovan seldome resteth
in places of habitation, of which in the way there are but
fewe, yea rather the Carovan resteth altogether in the
field: therefore in this our voyage wee will onely make
mention of certaine Castles found in the way, which bee
these, namely, Agerut, Nachel, Acba, Biritem, Muel
, and
Ezlem. Of which five, the two first are kept of Moores,
and the other three of Turkes, and for guard they have
eight men or tenne at the most in every Castle, with
foure or five Smerigli, which serve to keepe the water
from the Arabians, so that the Carovan comming thither,
may have wherewithall to refresh it selfe. Agerut is
distant from Suez
a port of the
red Sea eight miles,
where are alwayes resident five and twentie gallies of the
Grand Signior for the keeping of that Sea. Nachel is
distant from the Sea a dayes journey. The walles of
Acba are founded upon the
red Sea banke. Biritem and
Muel
likewise are dashed by the waves of the Sea. Ezlem is distant from thence above a dayes journey.
These five Castles abovesayd are not of force altogether
to defend themselves agaynst an hundred men. The Carovan departing from Birca untill Agerut findeth no
water by the way to drinke, neither from Agerut till
Nachel, nor from Nachel till Acba, but betweene Acba
and Biritem are found two waters, one called Agium el
Cassap, and the other Magaraxiaibi, that is to say, the
river of Jethro the father in lawe of Moses, for this is the
place mentioned in the second chapter of Exodus, whither
it is sayd that Moses fledde from the anger of Pharao,
who would have killed him, because hee had slaine the
Ægyptian, which fought with the Hebrew, in which place
stoode the citie of Midian; and there are yet the pondes,
neere unto the which Moses sate downe. And from that
place forward they finde more store of water by the way,
and in more places, though not so good. It is also to bee
noted, that in this voiage it is needfull and an usuall
thing, that the captaine put his hand to his purse, in these
places, and bestow presents, garments, and turbants upon
certaine of the chiefe of the Arabians, to the ende they
may give him and his Carovan free passage: who also
promise, that their followers likewise shall doe no damage
to the Carovan, and bind themselves to accomplish the
same, promising also by worde of mouth, that if the
Carovan bee robbed, they will make restitution of such
things as are stollen: but notwithstanding the Carovan
is by them oftentimes damnified, and those which are
robbed have no other restitution at the Arabians handes
then the shewing of them a paire of heeles, flying into
such places as it is impossible to finde them. Nowe the
Carovan continuing her accustomed journeys, and having
passed the abovesayd castles, and others not woorthie
mention, at length commeth to a place called Jehbir,
which is the beginning and confine of the state and realme
of Serifo the king of Mecca
: where, at their approching
issueth out to meete them the governour of the land,
with all his people to receive the Carovan, with such
shouting and triumph, as is impossible to expresse, where
they staie one whole day. This place aboundeth with
fresh and cleare waters, which with streames fall downe
from the high mountaines. Moreover, in this place are
great store of dates, and flesh great store and good
cheape, and especially laced muttons which willingly fall
downe, and here the wearie pilgrimes have commoditie
to refresh themselves, saying, that this wicked fact
purgeth them from a multitude of sinnes, and besides
increaseth devotion to prosecute the voiage. Touching
the building in these places, it is to bee judged by the
houses halfe ruinated, that it hath bene a magnificent
citie: but because it was in times past inhabited more
with thieves then true men, it was therefore altogether
destroyed by Soldan Gauri king of Ægypt, who going on
pilgrimage unto Mecca
, and passing by this place, there
was by the inhabitants hereof some injurie done unto his
Carovan, which hee understanding of, dissembled till his
returned from Mecca
, and then caused it to bee burned
and destroyed in pitifull sort for revenge of the injurie
done unto the Carovan. The Carovan having rested and
being refreshed as is abovesayd, the next day departeth
on the way, and the first place they arrive at woorthy
mention is called Bedrihonem, in which place (as is aforesayd) grow those little shrubbes whereout Balme issueth.
And before the Carovan arriveth at this place, a mile
from the citie is a large and great field environed about
with most high and huge mountaines. And in this field,
according to the Alcoran, their prophet Mahomet had a
most fierce and cruell battell given by the Christians
of the countrey and other people which set themselves
agaynst them, and withstood his opinion, so that hee was
overcome and vanquished of the Christians, and almost
halfe of his people slaine in the battell. Whereupon,
the prophet seeing himselfe in such extremitie, fell to his
prayers, and they say, that God having compassion upon
his deare friend and prophet, heard him, and sent him
infinite thousands of angels, wherewith returning to the
battell, they conquered and overcame the conquerour.
And therefore in memorie of this victorie, the Carovan
lodgeth every yeere one night in this place, making great
bonefires with great mirth. And they say that as yet
there is heard upon the mountaines a litle drumme, which
while the Carovan passeth, never ceaseth sounding. And
they say further, that the sayd drumme is sounded by the
angels in signe of that great victory graunted of God
to their prophet. Also the Mahumetan writings affirme,
that after the ende of the sayd battell, the prophet commaunded certaine of his people to goe and burie all the
Mahumetans which were dead in the fields, who going,
knew not the one from the other, because as yet they used
not circumcision, so they returned unto him, answering,
that they had bene to doe his commaundement, but they
knew not the Musulmans from the Christians. To whom
the prophet answered, saying: Turne againe, and all
those which you shall finde with their faces downeward,
leave them, because all they are misbeleevers; and the
other which you shall finde with their faces turned upward, them burie, for they are the true Musulmani, and
so his commaundement was done.
The next morning by Sunne rising, the Carovan
arriveth at
Bedrihonem, in which place every man
washeth himselfe from toppe to toe, as well men as
women, and leaving off their apparell, having each one a
cloth about their privities, called in their tongue Photah,
and another white one upon their shoulders, all which can
goe to Mecca
in this habite, do so, and are thought to
merite more then the other, but they which cannot doe so
made a vowe to sacrifice a Ramme at the mountaine of
pardons: and after they bee washed, it is not lawfull for
any man or woman to kill either flea or lowse with their
handes, neither yet to take them with their nailes, untill
they have accomplished their vowed orations in the
mountaine of pardons abovesayd : and therefore they cary
with them certaine stickes made of purpose in maner of
a File, called in their language Arca, Cassah Guch, with
which they grate their shoulders. And so the Carovan
marching, commeth within two miles of Mecca
where
they rest that night. In the morning at the breake of
day, with all pompe possible they set forward toward
Mecca
, and drawing neere thereunto, the Seripho issueth
foorth of the citie with his guard, accompanied with an
infinite number of people, shouting, and making great
triumph. And being come out of the citie a boweshoote
into a faire field, where a great multitude of tents are
pitched, and in the middest the pavillion of the captaine,
who meeting with the Serifo, after salutations on each
side, they light from their horses and enter into the
pavillion, where the king of Mecca
depriveth himselfe
of all authoritie and power, and committeth the same to
the above-named captaine, giving him full licence and
authoritie to commaund, governe, and minister justice
during his aboad in Mecca
with his company, and on
the other side the captaine to requite this liberalitie used
toward him by the Serifo giveth him a garment of cloth
of gold of great value, with certaine jewels and other like
things. After this, sitting downe together upon carpets
and hides they eate together, and rising from thence with
certaine of the chiefest, and taking with them the garment and gate abovesayd, they goe directly to the
Mosquita, attended on but with a fewe, and being
entered, they cause the olde to be pulled downe, and
put the newe coverture upon the house of Abraham, and
the olde vesture is the eunuchs which serve in the sayde
Mosquita, who after sell it unto the pilgrimes at foure or
five serafines the pike: and happy doth that man thinke
himselfe, which can get never so litle a piece thereof, to
conserve ever after as a most holy relique: and they say,
that putting the same under the head of a man at the
houre of his death, through vertue thereof all his sinnes
are forgiven. Also they take away the old doore, setting
in the place the new doore, and the old by custome they
give unto the Serifo. After having made their praiers
with certaine ordinarie and woonted ceremonies, the
Serifo remaineth in the citie, and the captaine of the
pilgrimage returneth unto his pavillion.
Of the Serifo the king of Mecca
.
THE Serifo is descended of the prophet Mahomet by
Fatma daughter of that good prophet, and Alli husband
to her, and sonne in lawe to Mahumet, who had no issue
male, save this stocke of the Serifo, to the eldest sonne
whereof the realme commeth by succession. This realme
hath of revenues royall, every yeere halfe a million of
golde, or litle more: and all such as are of the prophets
kinred, or descended of that blood (which are almost
innumerable) are called Emyri, that is to say, lordes.
These all goe clothed in greene, or at the least have their
turbant greene, to bee knowen from the other. Neither
is it permitted that any of those Christians which dwell or
traffique in their Countrey goe clothed in greene, neither
may they have any thing of greene about them: for they
say it is not lawfull for misbeleevers to weare that colour,
wherein that great friend and prophet of God Mahomet
was woont to be apparelled.
Of the citie of Mecca.
THE Citie of Mecca in the Arabian tongue is called
Macca, that is to say, an habitation. This citie is
invironed about with exceeding high and barren mountaines, and in the plaine betweene the sayde mountaines
and the citie are many pleasaunt gardens, where groweth
great abundaunce of figges, grapes, apples, and melons.
There is also great abundance of good water and fleshe,
but not of bread. This citie hath no walles about it, and
containeth in circuite five miles. The houses are very
handsome and commodious, and are built like to the
houses in Italie
. The palace of the Serifo is sumptuous
and gorgeously adorned. The women of the place are
courteous, jocund, and lovely, faire, with alluring eyes,
being hote and libidinous, and the most of them naughtie
packes. The men of this place are given to that
abhominable, cursed, and opprobrious vice, whereof both
men and women make but small account by reason of the
pond Zun Zun, wherein having washed themselves, their
opinion is, that although like the dog they returne to
their vomite, yet they are clensed from all sinne whatsoever, of which sin we will hereafter more largely
discourse. In the midst of the city is ye great Mosquita,
with the house of Abraham standing in the very middest
thereof, which Mosquita was built in the time when their
prophet lived. It is foure square, and so great, that it
containeth two miles in circuit, that is to say, halfe a
mile each side. Also it is made in maner of a cloister,
for that in the midst thereof separate from the rest, is the
abovesayd house of Abraham, also the galleries round
about are in maner of 4. streetes, and the partitions
which divide the one street from the other are pillars,
whereof some are of marble, and others of lime and stone.
This famous and sumptuous Mosquita hath 99. gates,
and 5. steeples, from whence the Talismani call the people
to the Mosquita. And the pilgrimes which are not provided of tents, resort hither, and for more devotion the
men and women lie together aloft and beneath, one upon
another, so that their house of praier becommeth worse
sometimes then a den of thieves.
Of the house of Abraham.
THE house of Abraham is also foure square, and made
of speckled stone, 20. paces high, and 40 in circuit.
And upon one side of this house within the wall, there is
a stone of a span long, and halfe a span broad, which
stone (as they say) before this house was builded, fell
downe from heaven, at the fall whereof was heard a
voyce, that wheresoever this stone fell, there should be
built the house of God, wherein God will heare sinners.
Moreover, they say that when this stone fell from heaven,
it was not blacke as now, but as white as the whitest
snow, and by reason it hath bene so oft kissed by sinners,
it is therewith become blacke: for all the pilgrimes are
bound to kisse this stone, otherwise they cary their sinnes
home with them again. The entrance into this house is
very small, made in maner of a window, and as high from
the ground as a man can reach, so that it is painful to
enter. This house hath without 31. pillars of brasse, set
upon cubike or square stones being red and greene, the
which pillars sustaine not ought els save a threed of
copper, which reacheth from one to another, whereunto
are fastened many burning lampes. These pillars of
brasse were caused to be made by Sultan Soliman grandfather to Sultan Amurath now, Emperor. After this,
having entred with the difficultie abovesayd, there stand
at the entrance two pillars of marble, to wit, on each
side one. In the midst there are three of Aloes-wood
not very thicke, and covered with tiles of India of 1000.
colours which serve to underproppe the Terratza. It is
so darke, that they can hardly see within for want of
light, not without an evill smell. Without the gate five
pases is the abovesayd pond Zun Zun, which is that
blessed pond that the angell of the lord shewed unto
Agar whiles she went seeking water for her sonne Ismael
to drinke.
Of the ceremonies of the pilgrimes.
IN the beginning we have sayd how the Mahumetans
have two feasts in the yeere. The one they call Pascha
di Ramazaco, that is to say, The feast of fasting, and
this feast of fasting is holden thirtie dayes after the feast,
wherein the Carovan travelleth to Mecca
. The other is
called the feast of the Ramme, wherein all they which are
of abilitie are bound to sacrifice a Ramme, and this they
call Bine Bairam, that is to say, The great feast. And
as the Carovan departeth from Cairo
thirtie dayes after
the little feast, so likewise they come hither five or sixe
dayes before the great feast, to the ende the pilgrimes
may have time before the feast to finish their rites and
ceremonies, which are these. Departing from the Carovan, and being guided by such as are experienced in the
way, they goe unto the citie twentie or thirtie in a com
pany as they thinke good, walking through a streete
which ascendeth by litle and litle till they come unto a
certaine gate, whereupon is written on each side in
marble stone, Babel Salema, which in the Arabian tongue
signifieth, the gate of health. And from this place is
descried the great Mosquita, which environeth the house
of Abraham, which being descried, they reverently salute
twise, saying, Salem Alech Jara sul Alla, that is to say,
Peace to thee, ambassadour of God. This salutation
being ended, proceeding on the way, they finde an arche
upon their right hand, whereon they ascend five steps,
upon the which is a great voyd place made of stone:
after, descending other five steps, and proceeding the
space of a flight-shoot, they finde another arche like unto
the first, and this way from the one arche to the other
they go and come 7. times, saying alwaies some of their
prayers, which (they say) the afflicted Agar sayd, whiles
she sought and found not water for her sonne Ismael to
drinke. This ceremonie being ended, the pilgrimes enter
into the Mosquita, and drawing neere unto the house
of Abraham, they goe round about it other seven times,
alwayes saying: This is the house of God, and of his
servant Abraham; This done, they goe to kisse that
blacke stone abovesayd. After they go unto the pond
Zun Zun, and in their apparell as they be, they wash
themselves from head to foote, saying, Tobah Allah,
Tobah Allah, that is to say, Pardon lord, Pardon lord,
drinking also of that water, which is both muddie, filthie,
and of an ill savour, and in this wise washed and watered,
every one returneth to his place of abode, and these
ceremonies every one is bound to doe once at the least.
But those which have a mind to overgoe their fellowes,
and to go into paradise before the rest, doe the same
once a day while the Carovan remaineth there.
What the Carovan doeth after having rested at Mecca
.
THE Carovan having abode within the citie of Mecca five
dayes, the night before the evening of their feast, the
captaine with all his company setteth forward towards the
mountaine of pardons, which they call in the Arabian
tongue, Jabel Arafata. This mountaine is distant from
Mecca
15. miles, and in the mid way thereto is a place
called Mina
, that is to say, The haven, and a litle from
thence are 4. great pillars, of which hereafter we will
speake. Now first touching the mountaine of Pardons,
which is rather to be called a litle hill, then a mountain,
for that it is low, litle, delightful and pleasant, containing in circuit two miles, and environed round about with
the goodliest plaine that ever with mans eie could be
seen, and the plaine likewise compassed with exceeding
high mountains, in such sort, that this is one of the
goodliest situations in the world: and it seemeth verily,
that nature hath therein shewed all her cunning, in
making this place under the mountaine of pardons so
broad and pleasant. Upon the side towards Mecca
there
are many pipes of water cleare, faire, and fresh, and
above all most wholesome, falling down into certaine
vessels made of purpose, where the people refresh and
wash themselves, and water their cattel. And when
Adam and Evah were cast out of paradise by the angel
of the Lord, the Mahumetans say, they came to inhabite
this litle mountaine of pardons. Also they say, that they
had lost one another, and were seperated for the space of
40. yeeres, and in the end met at this place with great
joy & gladnesse, and builded a litle house upon the top
of this mountaine, the which at this day they call Beyt
Adam, that is to say, the house of Adam.
Of the three Carovans.
THE same day that the Carovan of Cairo commeth to this
place, hither come 2. Carovans also, one of Damasco
, the
other of Arabia
, and in like maner all the inhabitants for
ten dayes journey round about, so that at one time there
is to be seen above 200000. persons, and more then
300000. cattell. Now all this company meeting together
in this place the night before the feast, the three hostes
cast themselves into a triangle, setting the mountaine in
the midst of them: and all that night there is nothing
to be heard nor scene, but gunshot and fireworkes of
sundry sortes, with such singing, sounding, shouting,
halowing, rumors, feasting, and triumphing, as is wonderfull. After this, the day of the feast being come, they
are all at rest and silence, and that day they attend on no
other thing, then to sacrifice oblations and prayers unto
God, and in the evening all they which have horses mount
thereon, and approch as nigh unto the mountaine as
they can, and those which have no horses make the
best shift they can on foote, giving ever unto the captaine
of Cairo
the chiefe place, the second to the captaine of
Damasco
, and the third to the captaine of Arabia
, & being
all approched as is abovesayd, there commeth a square
squire, one of the Santones, mounted on a camell well
furnished, who at the other side of the mountain
ascendeth five steps into a pulpit made for that purpose,
and all being silent, turning his face towards the people,
he maketh a short sermon of the tenour folowing.
The summe of the Santones sermon.
THE summe of this double doctors sermon is thus much
in briefe. He sheweth them how many and how great
benefits God hath given to the Mahumetan people by the
hand of his beloved friend and prophet Mahomet, having
delivered them from the servitude of sinne & from idolatry,
in which before time they were drowned, and how he
gave unto them the house of Abraham wherein they
should be heard, and likewise the mountaine of pardons,
by meanes whereof they might obtaine grace and remission of their sinnes : adding, that the mercifull God, who
is a liberall giver of all good things, commaunded his
secretarie Abraham to build him an house in Mecca
,
where his successours might make their prayers unto
him and bee heard, at which time all the mountains in
the world came together thither with sufficiencie of stones
for building hereof, except that litle and low hill, which
for povertie could not go to discharge this debt, for the
which it became sorrowfull, weeping beyond all measure
for the space of thirtie yeeres, at the ende whereof the
eternall God having pitie and compassion upon this poore
Mountaine, saide unto it: Weepe no more (my daughter)
for thy bitter plaints have ascended up into mine eares,
therefore comfort thy selfe : for I will cause all those that
shall goe to visite the house of my friend Abraham, that
they shall not be absolved from their sinnes, unlesse they
first come to doe thee reverence, and to keepe in this
place their holiest feast. And this I have commanded
unto my people by the mouth of my friend and prophet
Mahumet. This said, he exhorteth them unto the love
of God, and to prayer and almes. The sermon being
done at the Sunne-setting they make 3. prayers, namely,
the first for the Serifo, the second for the Grand Signior
with his hoste, and the third for all the people: to which
prayers all with one voyce cry saying; Amni Ja Alla,
Amni Ja Alla, that is to say, Be it so Lord, be it so Lord.
Thus having had the Santones blessing and saluted the
Mountaine of pardons, they returne the way they came
unto Mina
, whereof wee have made mention. In returning at the end of the plaine are the abovesaid 4. pillers,
to wit, two on ech side of the way, through the midst
whereof they say it is needfull that every one passe,
saying, that who so passeth without looseth all that
merit which in his pilgrimage he had gotten. Also from
the mountaine of pardons until they be passed the said
pillers none dare looke backward, for feare least the
sinnes which he hath left in the mountains returne to him
againe. Being past these pillers every one lighteth
downe, seeking in this sandy field 50. or 60. litle stones,
which being gathered, and bound in an handkerchiffe
they carry to the abovesaid place of Mina
, where they
stay 5. dayes, because at that time there is a faire free
and franke of al custome. And in this place are other
3. pillers, not together, but set in divers places, where
(as their prophet saith) were the three apparitions which
the divel made unto Abraham, and to Ismael his sonne;
for amongst them they make no mention of Isaac, as if
he had never bene borne. So they say, that the blessed
God having commanded Abraham his faithfull servant to
sacrifice his first begotten Ismael, the old Abraham went
to do according to Gods wil, and met with the infernal
enemie in the shape of a man, and being of him demanded
whither he went, he answered, that he went to sacrifice
his sonne Ismael, as God had commanded him. Against
whom the divel exclaiming said: Oh doting old man, sith
God in thine old age hath marveilously given thee this
son (in whom all nations shalbe blessed) wherefore giving
credite unto vaine dreames, wilt thou kill him whom so
much thou hast desired, and so intirely loved. But
Abraham shaking him off proceeded on his way, whereupon the divel seeing his words could not prevaile with
the father attempted the sonne, saying; Ismael, have
regard unto thy selfe betimes in this thing which is so
dangerous. Wherefore? answered ye childe. Because
(saith the divel) thy doting father seeketh to take away
thy life. For what occasion, said Ismael? Because
(saith the enemie) he saith, that God hath commanded
him. Which Ismael hearing hee tooke up stones and
threw at him, saying, Auzu billahi minal scia itanil ragini,
which is to say, I defend me with God from the divel the
offender, as who would say, wee ought to obey the commandement of God and resist the divel with al our force.
But to returne to our purpose, the pilgrimes during their
aboad there goe to visite these three pillers, throwing
away the little stones which before they gathered, whiles
they repeat the same words which they say, that Ismael
said to the divell, when hee withstoode him. From hence
halfe a mile is a mountaine, whither Abraham went to
sacrifice his sonne, as is abovesaid. In this mountaine is
a great den whither the pilgrims resort to make their
prayers, and there is a great stone naturally separated in
the midst; and they say, that Ismael, while his father
Abraham was busie about the sacrifice, tooke the knife
in hand to proove how it would cut, and making triall
divided the stone into two parts. The five dayes being
expired, the captaine ariseth with all the Carovan, and
returneth againe to Mecca
, where they remaine other five
dayes. And while these rest, we will treat of the city
and port of Grida upon the
Red Sea.
Of Grida.
THEREFORE wee say that from Mecca
to Grida they make
two small dayes journey: and because in those places it
is ill travelling in the day-time by reason of the great
heat of the Sunne, therefore they depart in the evening
from Mecca
, and in the morning before Sunne-rising they
are arrived halfe way, where there are certaine habitations
well furnished, and good Innes to lodge in, but especially
women ynough which voluntarily bestowe their almes
upon the poore pilgrims: likewise departing the next
evening, the morning after, they come unto Grida. This
citie is founded upon the
Red Sea banke, environed with
wals & towers to the land-ward, but through continuance
of time almost consumed and wasted: on the side to
sea-ward it stands unwalled. Grida hath three gates, one
on eche side, and the thirde in the midst towarde the
land, which is called, The port of Mecca
, neere unto
which are 6. or 7. Turks upon the old towers for guard
thereof with foure faulcons upon one of the corners of
the city to the land-ward. Also to sea-ward where the
wall joyneth with the water, there is lately made a fort
like unto a bulwarke, where they have planted 25 pieces
of the best ordinance that might be had, which are very
well kept and guarded. More outward towards the sea
upon the farthest olde tower are other five good pieces
with 30 men to guard them. On the other side of the
city at the end of the wall there is lately builded a bulwarke strong and well guarded by a Sanjaccho with 150
Turks wel provided with ordinance and all other necessaries and munition, and all these fortifyings are for none
other cause then for feare and suspition of the Portugals.
And if the port were good all this were in vaine : but the
port cannot be worse nor more dangerous, being all full
of rocks and sands, in such wise, that the ships cannot
come neere, but perforce ride at the least two miles off.
At this port arrive every yeere forty or fifty great shippes
laden with spices and other rich marchandize which yeeld
in custome 150000 ducats, the halfe whereof goeth unto
the Grand Signior, and the other halfe to the Serifo.
And because there is none other thing worthy mention in
Grida we wil returne to our Carovan which hath almost
rested enough.
Of their going to Medina.
THE Carovan departeth for Medina returning the same
way they came unto Bedrihonem abovesayd, where they
leave their ordinance and other cariages, whereof they
have no need, with the pilgrims which have seene
Medina aforetime, and desire not to see it againe, but
stay in that place, expecting the carovan, and resting
untill the carovan go from Bedrihonem to Medina, where
they alwayes finde goodly habitations, with abundance of
sweet waters, and dates enough, and being within foureteene miles of Medina they come unto a great plaine
called by them Jabel
el salema, that is to say, the mountaine of health, from which they begin to descry the city
and tombe of Mahomet, at which sight they light from
their horses in token of reverence. And being ascended
up the sayd mountaine with shouting which pierceth the
skies they say, Sala
tuua salema Alaccha Jarah sul Allah.
Sala
tuua Salema Alaccha Janabi Allah, Sala
tuua Salema
Allaccha Jahabit Allah: which words in the Arabian
tongue signifie: Prayer and health be unto thee, oh
prophet of God: prayer and health be upon thee, oh
beloved of God. And having pronounced this salutation,
they proceed on their journey, so that they lodge that
night within three miles of Medina: and the next morn
ing the captaine of the pilgrimage ariseth, & proceeding
towards the city, and drawing neere, there commeth the
governour under the Serifo, accompanied with his people
to receive the Carovan, having pitched their tents in the
midst of a goodly field where they lodge.
Of Medina.
MEDINA is a little city of great antiquity, containing in
circuit not above two miles, having therein but one castle,
which is olde and weake, guarded by an Aga with fifty
pieces of artillery, but not very good. The houses thereof
are faire and well situated, built of lime and stone, and
in the midst of the city stands a foure-square Mosquita,
not so great as that of Mecca
, but more goodly, rich, and
sumptuous in building. Within the same in a corner
thereof is a tombe built upon foure pillers with a vault,
as if it were under a pavement, which bindeth all the
foure pillers together. The tombe is so high, that it
farre exceedeth in heighth the Mosquita, being covered
with lead, and the top all inamelled with golde, with an
halfe moone upon the top: and within the pavement it is
all very artificially wrought with golde. Below there are
round about very great staires of yron ascending up
untill the midst of the pillers, and in the very midst
thereof is buried the body of Mahomet, and not in a
chest of yron cleaving to the adamant, as many affirme
that know not the trueth thereof. Moreover, over the
body they have built a tombe of speckled stone a brace
and an halfe high, and over the same another of Legmane fouresquare in maner of a pyramis. After this,
round about the sepulture there hangeth a curtaine of
silke, which letteth the sight of those without, that they
cannot see the sepulture. Beyond this in the same Mosquita are other two sepulchres covered with greene cloth,
and in the one of them is buried Fatma the daughter of
Mahomet, and Alli is buried in the other, who was the
husband of the sayd Fatma. The attendants upon these
sepulchres are fifty eunuches white and tawny, neither
is it granted to any of them to enter within the tombe,
saving to three white eunuches the oldest and best of
credit; unto whom it is lawfull to enter but twise in the
day, to light the lamps, and to doe other services. All
the other eunuchs attend without to the service of the
Mosquita, and the other two sepulchres of Fatma, and
Alli, where every one may go and touch at his pleasure,
and take of the earth for devotion, as many do.
Of things without the City.
WITHOUT the city and on every side are most faire
gardens, with many fountaines of most sweet water,
infinite pondes, abundance of fruit, with much honest
living, so that this place is very pleasant and delightfull.
This city hath three gates, one of which is an hospitall
caused to be built by Cassachi, called the Rose, who was
wife to Sultan Soliman grandfather to this emperour.
The sayd hospitall hath nought els woorthy mention, save
that it is fairely built, and hath large revenues belonging
thereunto, and nourisheth many poore people. A mile
from the city are certaine houses whereof they affirme one
to be the same, where Mahumet in his lifetime dwelt.
This house hath on every side very many faire date trees,
amongst which there are two which grow out of one
stocke exceeding high, and these, they say, their Prophet
grafted with his owne hand: the fruit thereof is alwayes
sent to Constantinople, to be presented unto the Grand
Signior, and is sayd to be that blessed fruit of the
Prophet. Nere
unto the date trees is a faire fountaine of
cleere and sweet water, the which by a conduct pipe is
brought into the city of Medina. Also there is a little
Mosquita, wherein three places are counted holy, and
greatly reverenced : the first they affirme, that their Prophet made his first prayer in, after he knew God: the
second is that whither he went when he would see the
holy house of Abraham, where when he sate downe to
that intent, they say the mountaines opened from the
toppe to the bottome to shew him the house, and after
closed againe as before: the third holy place is in the
midst of the sayd Mosquita, where is a tombe made of
lime and stone fouresquare, and full of sand, wherein,
they say, was buried that blessed camell which Mahumet
was alwayes woont to ride upon. On the other side of
the city are other tombes of holy Mahumetans, and every
one of them hath a tombe built upon foure pillers,
amongst which three were the companions of Mahumet,
to wit, Abubacar, Ottoman, and Omar; all which are
visited of the pilgrims as holy places.
The offering of the vestures unto the sepulchres.
THE Carovan being come to Medina two houres before
day, and resting there till the evening, the captaine then
with his company and other pilgrims setteth forward,
with the greatest pompe possible: and taking with him
the vesture which is made in maner of a pyramis, with
many other of golde and silke, departeth, going thorow
the midst of the city, untill he come to the Mosquita,
where having praied, he presenteth unto the tombe of his
prophet (where the eunuchs receiving hands are ready)
the vesture for the sayd tombe: and certaine eunuchs
entring in take away the old vesture, and lay on the new,
burning the olde one, and dividing the golde thereof into
equall portions. After this are presented other vestures
for the ornament of the Mosquita. Also the people without deliver unto the eunuchs ech man somewhat to touch
the tombe therewith, which they keepe as a relique with
great devotion. This ceremony being ended, the captaine
resteth in Medina two dayes, to the end the pilgrims may
finish their devotion and ceremonies: and after they
depart to Jambor. A good dayes journey thence is a
steepe mountaine, over which is no passage, saving by
one narrow path called Demir Capi, which was in times
past called the yron gate. Of this gate the Mahumetans
say, that Ally the companion and sonne in law of
Mahumet, being here pursued by many Christians, and
comming unto this mountaine, not seeing any way
whereby to flee, drew out his sword, and striking the
said mountaine, divided it in sunder, and passing thorow
saved his life on the other side. Moreover, this Alli
among the Persians is had in greater reverence then
Mahumet, who affirme, that the sayd Alli hath done
greater things and more miraculous then Mahumet, and
therefore they esteeme him for God almighty his fellow.
But to returne to our matter, the captaine with the
carovan within two dayes after returneth for Cairo
, and
comming to Ezlem, findeth there a captaine with threescore horses come thither to bring refreshments to the
said captaine of the pilgrimage, as also to sell unto the
pilgrims some victuals. From thence they set forward,
and comming to Birca within two leagues of Cairo
, there
is the master of the house of the Bassha of Cairo with
all his horsemen come thither to receive him, with a
sumptuous and costly banket made at the cost of the
Basha for the captaine and his retinue, who after he is
well refreshed departeth toward the castle of Cairo
to
salute the Basha, who receiving him with great joy and
gladnesse in token of good wil presenteth him with a
garment of cloth of golde very rich: and the captaine
taking the Alcaron out of the chest presenteth it to the
Basha, who having kissed it, commandeth to lay it up
againe. Some there are which affirme, that being arrived
at Cairo
, they kill that goodly camell which carried the
Alcaron, and eate him; which is nothing so: for they
are so superstitious to the contrary, that to gaine all the
world they would not kill him. But if by casualty he
should die, in this case happy and blessed they thinke
themselves, which can get a morsell to eat. And thus
much concerning the voyage of the captaine of the
carovan of Cairo.
