- Journey through Southern Spain. -- Aranjuez. -- Cordova. -- visit to the hermits. -- Granada. -- the Alhambra. -- Malaga. -- Gibraltar. -- Cadiz.
1 Sitio, a country-seat.
5 Mr. Ticknor described this mode of travelling as pleasant; the courier, with the mail, riding a few yards before him; both mounted on small horses, which were changed every hour, going steadily at an easy gallop. To secure some change of position, during a journey of many hours, the stirrups were made extremely short at starting, and gradually lengthened, as the day went on. Mr. Ticknor had his own saddle, of course, and carried, attached to it, a skin of wine, and a haversack with bread, and, occasionally, some other food.
6 The passage here mentioned is as follows: ‘Your squire, Guadiana, lamenting his hard fate, was, in like manner, metamorphosed into a river that bears his name; yet still so sensible of your disaster, that when he first arose out of the bowels of the earth, to flow along its surface, and saw the sun in a strange hemisphere, he plunged again under ground, striving to hide his melting sorrows from the world.’—Don Quixote, Part II. Chap. XXIII.
7 In the bull-fights.
9 Don Angel afterwards became Duke de Rivas. He was always affectionately remembered by Mr. Ticknor and some interchange of books and letters occurred between them in later years. In the Preface to the first edition of the ‘History of Spanish Literature,’ this Duke de Rivas is spoken of as one ‘who, like the old nobles of the proudest days of the monarchy, has distinguished himself alike in arms, in letters, and in the civil government and foreign diplomacy of his country.’
10 In conversation, Mr. Ticknor described the Archbishop at his breakfast, chatting freely on all subjects, while the little chaplain knelt by his side on a hassock, fluently reciting the prayers from the breviary, and His Reverence always responding at the proper moment with scarcely an interruption of his talk.
11 In a letter to Mr. Daveis, December 5, 1818, Mr. Ticknor says: ‘The Alhambra, a name which will make my blood thrill if I live to the frosts of a century, not that the pleasure I received, on wandering over the immense extent of these most graceful and most picturesque of all ruins, was like the quiet, hallowed delight of a solitary, secret visit to the Coliseum or the Forum, when the moonbeams slept upon the wrecks of three empires and twenty-five hundred years, for it was nothing of all this; but it was a riotous, tumultuous pleasure, which will remain in my memory, like a kind of sensual enjoyment, as long as it has vivacity enough to recall the two days I passed amidst this strange enchantment.’
12 Thirty years after this, M. de Puibusque, author of ‘L'Histoire comparee des Litteratures Francaise et Espagnole,’ being in Boston and much with Mr. Ticknor, spoke with great admiration of the Countess de Montijo, describing the brilliancy of her talent, and the variety of her culture and accomplishments. Mr. Ticknor said he had known but one lady in Spain to whom such a description could apply, and had believed her to be the only one; but she was Countess de Teba. M. de Puibusque explained that it was the same person, under a title later inherited. Mr. Ticknor mentioned this in a letter to Don Pascual de Gayangos (August 20, 1849), and sent a message to Mad. de Montijo, who recollected him and returned his greeting. The Empress Eugenie is her daughter.
14 In a note to the ‘History of Spanish Literature,’ Mr. Ticknor says: ‘Few foreigners have done so much for Spanish literature as Bohl von Faber,’ and mentions his daughter as ‘one of the most popular of the living writers of Spain,’ her novelas appearing under the pseudonyme of Fernan Caballero.
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