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George Ticknor, Life, letters and journals of George Ticknor (ed. George Hillard), Chapter 2: (search)
, who hesitates yet an instant to believe or obey the cruel command for her exile, produce altogether an effect which places it among the very first pictures in the world. I was glad to find that the beautiful Hagar was quite fresh in my recollection after an interval of nearly twenty years. . . . . October 11.—We passed the forenoon in the cathedral, which, in fact, I visit every day; but which we to-day examined in some detail. It is a magnificent structure, inferior in size only to St. Peter's and St. Paul's, and built of solid marble in all its architecture and ornaments, from the foundation-stone to the pinnacle . . . . . This is precisely one of the buildings where you care nothing about the details, though I must needs say I do not like the doors and windows on the front, or the magnificent granite pillars on the inside of the principal entrance, because they are of Roman architecture and contradict the rest of the fabric. Still, after all, you do not think of these incon
George Ticknor, Life, letters and journals of George Ticknor (ed. George Hillard), Chapter 3: (search)
of other things that are worth seeing. In the evening there was a great concert given by the Duchess Torlonia, who, since her husband's death, is the head of the banking-house. . . . She gave her fete to-night in a vast palace she owns near St. Peter's. As we drove to it we found ourselves already within its reach, as it were, when we had arrived at the Bridge of St. Angelo; for the bridge itself was lighted with torches on both sides, and horse-guards were stationed in the middle,—a show wurprised me very much, as I never saw him but once. December 25.—A rainy, windy, and stormy Christmas, but the first really disagreeable day we have had since we crossed the Alps, above three months ago. . . . . We went comfortably enough to St. Peter's, and having good places there by the kindness of Mr. Kestner, saw the grand mass performed by the Pope, to great advantage . . . . December 26.—. . . . I dined in a gentlemen's party, at Mr. Jones the Bankers, with Mr. Harper, Charles C<
George Ticknor, Life, letters and journals of George Ticknor (ed. George Hillard), Chapter 4: (search)
s place; besides which, he enjoys a good deal of consideration, is a Monsignor and a Canon of St. Peter's, and may probably become a Cardinal. His English is idiomatic, but not spoken with a good aich has made so much noise lately, and the brief for forbidding which is now on the pillars of St. Peter's. I told him I had just read it, and he entered into a full discussion of the views of the Coot permit them. John Bunyan's Allegory is come literally true. In the afternoon we went to St. Peter's, always a great pleasure, and heard some good music; and the evening was divided between a sry to see them but for such an instant. Wordsworth has, of course, seen little of Rome except St. Peter's, but that has produced its full poetical effect upon him. It was in talking about this that this city of the past. We crossed the Ponte Molle, . . . . looking back often to the dome of St. Peter's and the castle of St. Angelo, as we caught glimpses of them between the villas and over the
George Ticknor, Life, letters and journals of George Ticknor (ed. George Hillard), Chapter 5: (search)
tyle throughout is effective, but there are interesting works of art,—very interesting. A Madonna by Ghirlandajo is excellent; two kneeling angels in marble on the altar of the sacrament, by Civitelli, 1470,—whose works are hardly found except here and in this neighborhood,—and a St. Sebastian, also by him, in 1484, are marvellous for the time when they were produced, and beautiful and full of deep meaning for any age. An altar-piece by John of Bologna, with the figures of the Saviour and St. Peter on one side and Paul of Lucca on the other, Statues. is one of the few satisfying representations of the Saviour I have ever looked upon, or perhaps I should rather say one of the few that do not offend the feelings when you look at it. It is of 1579. . . . . We went, too, to the palace where the Duke of Lucca has, not a large collection of pictures, but an admirable one, distributed through a few beautifully furnished rooms, where they can be seen in good lights and with great comfort.<
George Ticknor, Life, letters and journals of George Ticknor (ed. George Hillard), Chapter 16: (search)
avelled quite out of the reach of guide-books, and had a sense of discovery as we went along. It is a beautiful and very picturesque country, and we avoided, by passing through it, the passage in a steamboat from Trieste to Venice. . . . . Since I wrote the two last pages I have been to high mass in the cathedral. The music was not much; but there must have been five thousand people at least present, and the scene was very grand and solemn, more so, I think, than the similar one is at St. Peter's. We had a very plain, good sermon on forgiveness of enemies, which, perhaps, half the audience could hear. But one thing I would desire to note on this occasion, viz. that, as I witnessed to-day, and have often witnessed before, the habit of spitting—with which we are so much reproached in Yankeedom—is by no means an exclusively American habit. I find it common in Italy thus far. Well-dressed people all around me this forenoon, who paid for the chairs they occupied, spat on the marble
George Ticknor, Life, letters and journals of George Ticknor (ed. George Hillard), Chapter 17: (search)
es Expedition to Japan, which he had just learned that Mr. Ticknor had not yet seen. and so on, and so on, seeming to care for us constantly. I do not believe there is another man in Europe who would have taken such trouble for a person of so little consequence, and from whom he could expect only gratitude. November 27.—We have been here a week, and I have seen a good many of the old places and monuments. They all seem natural; some fresh, as if I had seen them yesterday, particularly St. Peter's and the Pantheon. Yesterday afternoon, the weather being very fine, we went to the top of the Capitol and looked at the grand panorama, the septem dominos montes, the old Alban Hills, the Sabine, the remote snow-capped Apennines, and then the whole modern city, crowded at our feet. It was such a sight as can never be seen too often, and I was glad to find that I knew nearly everything by heart. I think I shall enjoy Rome very much, because I shall go to see only the things I want to.
George Ticknor, Life, letters and journals of George Ticknor (ed. George Hillard), Chapter 18: (search)
ffectionate messages to you . . . . I found nobody else at home, but Lord and Lady Stanhope . . . . They were very agreeable, and I stayed and gossiped a good while. . . . . Panizzi, at the British Museum, said that Lord Holland The fourth and last Lord Holland, son of his former host. had told him I was come, and therefore he felt sure he should see me soon. He carried me at once to the new reading-room, which you know has a magnificent dome, a few feet larger in diameter than that of St. Peter's. The effect of the whole is very fine; the arrangements and details are admirable. . . . . Ellen says it is the finest room she has ever been in. I am not sure but I must say the same; even with the Pantheon fresh in my mind. Certainly I have never seen any room so completely adapted to its grand purpose of intellectual labor for a large number of persons. Indeed, I am much disposed—as I hear others are—to think that Panizzi has succeeded in making it what he boasted to me last year he
George Ticknor, Life, letters and journals of George Ticknor (ed. George Hillard), Chapter 19: (search)
half past 2 I drove down to the Deanery of St. Paul's, where the Heads came soon afterwards, and we all went at three, with the Dean and Mrs. Milman, and attended afternoon service in the choir. . . . . After we came out of the choir, we walked about the church a little, then went to the Deanery, then walked on the adjacent bridge, which gives a fine view of the river,—all alive with steamboats, filled for Sunday excursions,—and a still finer view of St. Paul's, which certainly-even after St. Peter's seen—is a grand and imposing fabric; and then, finally, we had a good Sunday family dinner of roast beef, and a good talk, which lasted until nearly eleven. It was all very simple, easy, and comfortable. . . . . But it was very hot in the city; indeed, the weather has excited much remark in this particular, few persons remembering so long-continued a spell. . . . . The next day, the 3d of August, Mr. Ticknor went to Stoke Park, the seat of Mr. Labouchere, since Lord Taunton:— I