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George Ticknor, Life, letters and journals of George Ticknor (ed. George Hillard), Chapter 16: (search)
ey by Gratz on the south side of the mountains—which was the counterpart to the one we made by Ischl and the Lakes, on the north side twenty years ago—was very fine. From Adelsberg to Venice, by Lend, through Friuli, was all new, likewise; and more than that, most of the way we travelled quite out of the reach of guide-books, and had a sense of discovery as we went along. It is a beautiful and very picturesque country, and we avoided, by passing through it, the passage in a steamboat from Trieste to Venice. . . . . Since I wrote the two last pages I have been to high mass in the cathedral. The music was not much; but there must have been five thousand people at least present, and the scene was very grand and solemn, more so, I think, than the similar one is at St. Peter's. We had a very plain, good sermon on forgiveness of enemies, which, perhaps, half the audience could hear. But one thing I would desire to note on this occasion, viz. that, as I witnessed to-day, and have ofte