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Hyde Park, Mass. (Massachusetts, United States) (search for this): chapter 11
interested in himself as the author of a history, which, unluckily, I had not then read. We met better upon a common interest in Carlyle, a few days later, and he took me to see that eminent author, and to join the afternoon walk of the two in Hyde Park. Long ago, in the Atlantic monthly, I described this occasion, and dwelt on the peculiar quality of Carlyle's laugh, which, whenever it burst out in its full volume, had the effect of dissolving all the clouds of his apparent cynicism and leavs guise, with a fur cap and a stout walking-stick, he accompanied Froude and myself on our walk. I observed that near his Chelsea home the passers-by regarded him with a sort of familiar interest, farther off with undisguised curiosity, and at Hyde Park, again, with a sort of recognition, as of an accustomed figure. At one point on our way some poor children were playing on a bit of rough ground lately included in a park, and they timidly stopped their frolic as we drew near. The oldest boy
Newport (Rhode Island, United States) (search for this): chapter 11
r felt for an instant that I had really encountered in England men of greater calibre than I had met before,--for was I not the fellow countryman of Emerson and Hawthorne, of Webster and Phillips?yet, after all, the ocean lends a glamour to the unseen world beyond it, and I was glad to have had a sight of that world, also. I was kindly dismissed from it, after my first brief visit, by a reception given me at the rooms of the Anglo-American Club, where Thomas Hugheswhom I had first known at Newport, Rhode Island-presided, and where Lord Houghton moved some too flattering resolutions, which were seconded by the present Sir Frederick Pollock. Returning to my American home, I read, after a few days, in the local newspaper (the Newport Mercury ), that I was reported to have enjoyed myself greatly in England, and to have been kindly received, especially among servants and rascals. An investigation by the indignant editor revealed the fact that the scrap had been copied from another newsp
Department de Ville de Paris (France) (search for this): chapter 11
e had literally never heard it before! But all agreed that these tales were of the past, and that the tribe of traditional fox-hunting and horse-racing parsons was almost extinct. I can testify, however, to having actually encountered one of the latter class within a year. I met Matthew Arnold one day by appointment at the Athenaeum, in 1878, and expressed some surprise that he had not been present at the meeting of the Association Litteraire Internationale which I had just attended in Paris. He said that he had declined because such things were always managed with a sole view to the glorification of France; yet he admitted that France was the only nation which really held literature in honor, as was to be seen in its copyright laws,--England and America caring far less for it, he thought. He told me that his late address on Equality was well enough received by all the audience except the Duke of Northumberland, the presiding officer, and in general better by the higher class,
Florence, S. C. (South Carolina, United States) (search for this): chapter 11
ns as to one's origin, and sometimes unexpected sympathy when this was ascertained. A man of educated appearance was then often asked,--and indeed is still liable to be asked,--on his alluding to America, how much time he had spent there. This question was put to me, in 1878, by a very lively young maiden at the table of a clergyman who was my host at Reading; she went on to inform me that I spoke English differently from any Americans she had ever seen, and she had known heaps of them in Florence. When I had told her that I spoke the language just as I had done for about half a century, and as my father and mother had spoken it before me, she caught at some other remark of mine, and asked with hearty surprise, But you do not mean that you really like being an American, do you? When I said that I should be very sorry not to be, she replied, I can only say that I never thought of such a thing; I supposed that you were all Americans because you could n't help it; and I assured her t
Cowes (United Kingdom) (search for this): chapter 11
time, while the man might not. I had brought no letter to Tennyson, and indeed my friend James T. Fields had volunteered a refusal of any, so strong was the impression that the poet disliked to be bored by Americans; but when two ladies whom I had met in London, Lady Pollock and Miss Anne Thackeray, afterwards Mrs. Ritchie,--had kindly offered to introduce me, and to write in advance that I was coming, it was not in human nature, at least in American nature, to decline. I spent the night at Cowes, and was driven eight miles from the hotel to Farringford by a very intelligent young groom who had never heard of the poet; and when we reached the door of the house, the place before me seemed such a haven of peace and retirement that I actually shrank from disturbing those who dwelt therein. I even found myself recalling a tale of Tennyson and his wife, who were sitting beneath a tree and talking unreservedly, when they discovered, by a rustling in the boughs overhead, that two New York
France (France) (search for this): chapter 11
it. They vied with one another in tales of the eccentricities of English clergymen,--of one who was eighteen years incumbent of an important parish, and lived in France all the time; of another who did not conduct service in the afternoon, as that was the time when it was necessary for him to take his spaniels out; of another who Internationale which I had just attended in Paris. He said that he had declined because such things were always managed with a sole view to the glorification of France; yet he admitted that France was the only nation which really held literature in honor, as was to be seen in its copyright laws,--England and America caring far lFrance was the only nation which really held literature in honor, as was to be seen in its copyright laws,--England and America caring far less for it, he thought. He told me that his late address on Equality was well enough received by all the audience except the Duke of Northumberland, the presiding officer, and in general better by the higher class, which well knew that it was materialized, than by the middle class, which did not know that it was vulgarized. Lord
Rhode Island (Rhode Island, United States) (search for this): chapter 11
an instant that I had really encountered in England men of greater calibre than I had met before,--for was I not the fellow countryman of Emerson and Hawthorne, of Webster and Phillips?yet, after all, the ocean lends a glamour to the unseen world beyond it, and I was glad to have had a sight of that world, also. I was kindly dismissed from it, after my first brief visit, by a reception given me at the rooms of the Anglo-American Club, where Thomas Hugheswhom I had first known at Newport, Rhode Island-presided, and where Lord Houghton moved some too flattering resolutions, which were seconded by the present Sir Frederick Pollock. Returning to my American home, I read, after a few days, in the local newspaper (the Newport Mercury ), that I was reported to have enjoyed myself greatly in England, and to have been kindly received, especially among servants and rascals. An investigation by the indignant editor revealed the fact that the scrap had been copied from another newspaper; and th
Verona (Mississippi, United States) (search for this): chapter 11
ry walking about in coats and gowns. This event did not happen to me for the first time until I was forty-eight years old, and had been immersed at home in an atmosphere of tolerably cultivated men and women; but the charm of the new experience was none the less great, and I inspected my little parcel of introductory letters as if each were a key to unlock a world unknown. Looking back, I cannot regret that I did not have this experience earlier in life. Valentine, in the Two gentlemen of Verona, says that homekeeping youth have ever homely wits; yet it is something to have wits at all, and perhaps there is more chance of this if one is not transplanted too soon. Our young people are now apt to be sent too early to Europe, and therefore do not approach it with their own individualities sufficiently matured; but in those days foreign travel was much more of an enterprise than now, and no one could accuse me, on my arrival, of being unreasonably young. I visited London in 1872, a
Chelsea (Massachusetts, United States) (search for this): chapter 11
aving that unreasonably high collar of other days, in which the head was sunk; his hair was coarse and stood up at its own will; his bushy whiskers were thrust into prominence by one of those stiff collars which the German students call father-killers, from a tradition that the sharp points once pierced the jugular vein of a parent during an affectionate embrace. In this guise, with a fur cap and a stout walking-stick, he accompanied Froude and myself on our walk. I observed that near his Chelsea home the passers-by regarded him with a sort of familiar interest, farther off with undisguised curiosity, and at Hyde Park, again, with a sort of recognition, as of an accustomed figure. At one point on our way some poor children were playing on a bit of rough ground lately included in a park, and they timidly stopped their frolic as we drew near. The oldest boy, looking from one to another of us, selected Carlyle as the least formidable, and said, I say, mister, may we roll on this her
Scotland (United Kingdom) (search for this): chapter 11
wife, who is compelled by her husband to ride a steeple-chase, at which she meets her death. The young singer had set the ballad to music, and it was one of those coincidences stranger than any fiction that she herself was killed by a runaway horse but a few months later. An American had also to accustom himself, in those days, to the surprise which might be expressed at his knowing the commonplaces of English history, and especially of English legend. On first crossing the border into Scotland, I was asked suddenly by my only railway companion, a thin, keen man with high cheek-bones, who had hitherto kept silence, Did ye ever hear of Yarrow? I felt inclined to answer, like a young American girl of my acquaintance when asked by a young man if she liked flowers, What a silly question! Restraining myself, I explained to him that every educated American was familiar with any name mentioned by Burns, by Scott, or in the Border Minstrelsy. Set free by this, he showed me many things
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