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Department de Ville de Paris (France) (search for this): chapter 7
Chapter 7: Mr. Ticknor leaves Paris. visit to La Grange. Geneva. M. De La Rive. Pr Journal. September 2.—This morning I left Paris, and I have not left any city with so little r It is impossible to know General Lafayette in Paris and the world without feeling respect for his ich he possesses beyond any Frenchman I met in Paris, Mad. Rilliet a toutes les vertus qu'elle affbserved that the ladies were handsomer than at Paris, but not so graceful; and seemingly more genuimpt at brilliancy and epigram which I found in Paris society, and which I have found here only in Du M. de Pourceaugnac, which made much noise in Paris last winter, was performed by herself and halfnever forget. By the kindness of friends in Paris, and especially the family of Mad. de Stael, Itaste than the gayer and more witty circles in Paris, of which I had a complete surfeit. Almost the purpose, are collecting and collected from Paris, . . . . and from churches where they have sle[1 more...]
g can be more heart-rending than the contrast which the immediate and the present here form with the recollections of the past, gilded as they are by the feelings and the fancy. Here lived the brave and hardy tribes of the Albans, the Fidenates, and the Coriolani; here were the thirty-four famous cities, of which every trace was lost even in the time of Pliny; here was the crowd of population that found no place in Rome in the time of the Republic; here was the splendor of the Empire, when Honorius, from the magnificence of the buildings and monuments, seemed to be at the entrance of Rome when he was still fifty miles from its gates; and, finally, here resided the strength and rose the castles of the proud barbarism of the Middle Ages, when the contest remained so long doubtful between the ecclesiastical usurpation within the city and the rude chieftains without. Hoec tune nomina erant, nunc sunt sine nomine campi. I cannot express the secret sinking of the heart, I would not ackn
of which this could be said. But I forget my story. Five days ago I went to see Mont Blanc and the great glacier of Chamouni. I dare not attempt to tell you what I saw and felt in these strange solitudes, where the genius and power of ages and generations might be wasted in vain to obliterate or change the awful features of nature, or divert or disturb her more awful operations. The Falls of Niagara, where one sea precipitates itself into another, may surpass it; but I have never seen Niagara, and the Mer de Glace remains solitary in my recollections of the stupendous works and movements of nature. Farewell, my dear father and mother,—farewell from the beautiful shores of the Lake of Geneva; from the birthplace of Rousseau, and the tomb of Mad. de Stael; and what is more, from the country made classical by the traces their genius has everywhere left in it. Day after to-morrow, Brooks and I set forth for Venice and Cogswell. Dictated, 1854. One of the persons who was
not yet up, and the servant showed me into a room where I found a lively, intelligent gentleman, whom I recognized to be Hobhouse; who, after a youth of dissipation, has now become a severe student. His conversation is animated, acute, and sometimes comparatively small value of his travels in Greece, which, he said, contained not the sixth part of its attractions. Mr. Hobhouse had already told me of a plan formed by himself and Lord Byron to go to the United States, about a year hence, if he (Hobhouse) should not get into Parliament; of which I imagine there may be some chance; but Lord Byron's views were evidently very different from his, and I know not how their plans could be reconciled. Hobhouse, who is a true politician, talked onlyHobhouse, who is a true politician, talked only of seeing a people whose character and institutions are still in the freshness of youth; while Lord Byron, who has nothing of this but the prejudices and passions of a partisan, was evidently thinking only of seeing our Indians and our forests; of s
. . . . Everybody rose at the time he pleased, and breakfasted at the hour he chose, in his own room, or at half past 9 with the family. In the morning we drove or walked, and those who did not choose to remain in their chambers went to the salon, where company was always to be found. Dinner at half past 5; somewhat later the household went to their apartments, but all met in the salon at ten and passed two very happy hours together. Geneva, September 10.—This evening I passed at Mad. Rilliet's, to whom the Duchess de Broglie gave me a letter. She was a particular friend of Mad. de Stael's, and is a lady of large fortune, much talent, and elegant manners. Benjamin Constant said of her, with that kind of wit peculiar to the French, and which he possesses beyond any Frenchman I met in Paris, Mad. Rilliet a toutes les vertus qu'elle affecte; for there is a certain stateliness and pretension in her manner that reminds you of affectation. September 11.—I dined to-day with M. de
Charles S. Daveis (search for this): chapter 7
ld just distinguish in the distant horizon. . . . . November 2.—This morning we were already on the road when the same sun appeared again, in the cloudless splendor of an Italian sky, from behind the hills of Tivoli . . . . Turning suddenly round a projecting height, . . . . Rome, with its seven hills, and all its towers and turrets and pinnacles, with the Castle of St. Angelo and the cupola of St. Peter's,—Rome, in all the splendor of the Eternal City, bursts at once upon us. To Charles S. Daveis. Rome, November 19, 1817. . . . . What can I say to you that will not disappoint the expectations that my date excites? for it is not enough to tell you I have enjoyed myself more in Italy than in all the rest of Europe, and that Rome is worth all the other cities in the world, unless I add some distinct account of my pleasures, . . . . so that you can in some sort share them with me. One of the great pleasures in Rome is certainly that of going out to see its churches, palaces, a
Auguste Stael (search for this): chapter 7
Paris, and I have not left any city with so little regret. A few friends, indeed, I have left there, to whom I owe many favors and much genuine kindness; but I never knew so many people, and knew them so long, where I found so much occasion to be familiar, and so little to be intimate; where there was so much to amuse, and so little to attach my affections. Two of those who have seemed to take the most interest in me, and whose kindness I shall never forget,—the Duke de Broglie and Auguste de Stael,—proposed to me to accompany them to La Grange, where they were to visit General Lafayette, without company. The General had often invited me to visit him, and as his chateau is not far from the route I was to follow to Switzerland I accompanied them. I was much touched this morning by the Duke's kindness, in having asked M. Sismondi to meet me at breakfast, he having arrived last evening only, from Geneva, and whom I could not otherwise have seen. He is about fifty, a plain man in
Note by Mr. Ticknor. September 27.—Between Brigg and Domo d'ossola, we have today crossed the Alps by the Simplon,—a most astonishing proof of the power of man . . . . It is impossible to give any idea of this magnificent work, which, for twenty miles together, is as perfect as a gentleman's avenue; of the difficulties the engineers were obliged to encounter, which, even after success, seem insuperable; or the terrors of the scenery, which reminded me of some of the awful descriptions in Dante's Inferno . . . . . We were eight hours in ascending, and four and a half in the descent. September 29.—On going a little about Domo d'ossola this morning,—which is a neat little town,—I found that not only the climate, but the architecture, had changed. While coming down the mountains, I observed the refuges built on their sides, to serve as a shelter to travellers, were more appropriate in their forms and ornaments than the same buildings on the other side; but I attributed it to ac
Deodati Pictet (search for this): chapter 7
apter 7: Mr. Ticknor leaves Paris. visit to La Grange. Geneva. M. De La Rive. Professor Pictet. Sir Francis d'ivernois. Bonstetten. Fete by a Russian Countess. Madame Neckar de Sauss man, living happily in his home, and loved by his friends. After dinner, he carried me to Prof. Pictet's, the worthy successor of De Saussure in the University, and the chief man in the Bibliotheqink belongs to the republican character, carried me to tea at M. Pictet Deodati's, brother of Prof. Pictet, and chief-justice of the canton: a plain, sensible gentleman, who reminded me of the same cldency of society, that, except Sir Francis d'ivernois, all are men of letters. For instance, Prof. Pictet, the worthy successor of Saussure, Prof. De Candolle, and Prof. Prevost, the three great pillonger able to resist the rigors of the eternal winter. The prior, to whom I had letters from Prof. Pictet, received us with great civility. As it was not sunset, he carried us out to see the grounds
De la Rive (search for this): chapter 7
que Britannique. I was struck with the exhibition of talent I witnessed, and particularly with De Candolle, professor of botany, who has great powers of conversation, without that perpetual attempt at brilliancy and epigram which I found in Paris society, and which I have found here only in Dumont. In the evening I went to a large party at Dr. Buttini's, the first physician in Geneva. I found most of the society I met last evening, but was so much interested by the conversation of President de la Rive that I made few new acquaintances. September 14.—A Russian Countess Bruess is living here, and finding it difficult to spend an income—said to be a million of francs a year —amuses herself with giving such entertainments as the simple Genevans rarely see. Just at this time the birthday of her friend Princess Kourakin occurs, and as she is here on a visit, the Countess determined to give a fete which should eclipse all her former magnificence. At eight o'clock we found ourselves at<
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