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Belgium (Belgium) (search for this): chapter 14
now, as I did of Italian when I came to Italy. I did not understand the Carta di Sicurezza that was given me at the gate of San Giovanni, when I entered Rome, the 21st of May. At the first town that I come to in Germany I shall stop, take a master, and commence an assault for one week; then move on, studying on the road to Vienna; three weeks in Vienna,—a master all the time; then to Prague, Dresden, Berlin, and probably next down to Heidelberg,—an immense sweep; then down the Rhine into Belgium, to London, where I expect to be at the end of December or beginning of January. Venice is a sort of jumping-off place. I am here equally distant from Vienna and Athens. I can be at either in less than seven days. I have ordered my letters to Vienna, where I expect to find a batch of two months. This is a temptation to the North; but there are the Piraeus and Marathon! I am strongly tempted. My next will be to you from Vienna or Athens. Which had you rather it should be? Tell me in
La Grange (Georgia, United States) (search for this): chapter 14
ct sight, for whom he cared with singular delicacy. That was George W. Greene, who at Rome, thirty years before, had assisted him in his studies, strolled with him among ruins and on the Campagna, and was associated with the memories of happiest days,—a friend whom Sumner was ever afterward quick to serve. Greene, the grandson of Washington's most trusted general, was born in the same year with Sumner. As a youth of sixteen, and again three years later, he had been Lafayette's guest at La Grange. In 1827, he met casually at Marseilles a pilgrim scholar like himself,—Henry W. Longfellow; and the two journeyed together to Rome. No scholar was ever more generous and patient than Greene in helping others to follow paths already familiar to himself; and favors and associations in common studies were always freshly remembered by Sumner, even in the absorbing pursuits of public life. Professor Greene remembers well Sumner's habits at this time,—his prolonged studies, his bringing ea<
Exeter (United Kingdom) (search for this): chapter 14
egard to American literature. All this I furnished to the best of my ability, and to his apparent great satisfaction; and on some points I thought he gave up some of his first-expressed opinions. His admiration of your labors was unfeigned; and he hoped that, if ever you came to England, you would take a note from me to him, that he might have the pleasure of making your personal acquaintance. In personal appearance and manners, he is much the gentleman. He has a considerable place near Exeter, where he has built ornamental walls and houses in imitation of some of those old Moorish remains which he so loved in Spain. His article was to appear this June, but I should not be surprised if it went over till October. On the receipt of your letter I wrote him from Rome, to let him know that a large number of corrections had been made in the recent American edition. I also wrote Bentley, whom I saw when in London, communicating your wishes. It is a far cry across the Atlantic Ocean,
Connecticut (Connecticut, United States) (search for this): chapter 14
ed every thing; did not present a single letter of introduction; paid dear for my lodgings; left in the malle-postefor Milan; rode two nights and a day; read Italian, and talked that and French. In Milan I have stumbled upon a couple of friends, to whom I wish you to be kind, for various reasons,—inasmuch as they are my friends, and are quiet, pleasant, gentlemanly persons; and you will be pleased with them. One is Preston, of Virginia,—the brother of the Senator; the other is Lewis, of Connecticut. The latter spoke French before he left America. Both are desirous of acquiring Italian, but I fear will not have the energy to deal with it properly. I wish you would encourage them, and give them such assistance as you can. Within a week or fortnight, Sir Charles Vaughan will be in Rome. For twelve years, he was the much respected I may say, loved—Minister of England at Washington. All Americans owe him kindness and attention for the way in which he speaks about our country. He wi<
Siena (Italy) (search for this): chapter 14
the close of August. Rome and the Campagna have attractions at this season which are withheld in winter, and he always regarded the time of his sojourn there as well chosen. Mr. Ticknor wrote to him, Dec. 3, 1839: I agree with you about the season for seeing Italy. I have been there every month of the year except August, and give me the sunshine even at the expense of the heat. He afterwards referred to these days as the happiest of his whole European journey. Thence he went, by way of Siena, to Florence, where he passed a fortnight; and then with a vetturino to Bologna, Ferrara, Rovigo, Padua, and across the plains of Lombardy alone, in a light wagon with a single horse, harnessed with ropes, old leather, and the like. Leaving Venice on the last day of September, after a week's visit, he arrived, Oct. 2, without breaking the journey, at Milan, where his Italian tour ended. Three days later, he took a seat in the malle-poste to cross the Alps by the Stelvio Pass for Innsbruck
Saint Francis (Arkansas, United States) (search for this): chapter 14
s and the crucifix. The hall is hung with pictures of the most distinguished of the order; and a fresco on the high-vaulted ceiling represents the ascension of St. Francis, its patron. What would these Fathers have said, if they could have foreseen that their retreat was to be occupied by heretics; that the hospitality of their convent was to be extended to those who do not believe in the Pope or St. Francis? You know that this order is one of the most rigid of the Roman Church. They wear neither hats nor stockings, but simply sandals for their feet. The remainder of their dress is a thick, heavy robe, or gown,—Odious! in woollen! 'twould a saint provs a way of refusing, pointed to a bag which contained a load for three men, and told the monk he was welcome to that, if he would carry it off. The monk invoked St. Francis, stooped and took up the load, and quietly carried it away! The astonished farmer followed him to the convent, and required the return of his corn. His faith
United States (United States) (search for this): chapter 14
se neglected works are explored only by the most assiduous students of Italian literature. Most of all he enjoyed the great work of an author then living,—the Promessi Sposi of Manzoni. Hillard wrote to him, Nov. 29: You have made an admirable use of your opportunities in Italy. Nobody has ever done more so. The list of books which you have read absolutely startles me. I do not understand how you could have found time for any thing else. Sumner found at Rome, in the Consul of the United States, a scholar of kindred tastes, with whom he established a perpetual friendship. Some will remember that when, in his later years, he was to speak at Faneuil Hall, he brought with him to the platform a slightly built man of fine texture, scholarly mien, and imperfect sight, for whom he cared with singular delicacy. That was George W. Greene, who at Rome, thirty years before, had assisted him in his studies, strolled with him among ruins and on the Campagna, and was associated with the m
St. Albans, Vt. (Vermont, United States) (search for this): chapter 14
by their beauty. I saw pictures in clear day, and I could sit down amidst ruins, nor fear a winter damp or chill. Of society I have seen little, except incidentally, though I have known many individuals. In Naples I did not trouble myself to leave a single letter of introduction. In Rome, the Princess Borghese died two days after my arrival; the French Ambassador had left for the summer before I came. The Countess of Coventry Lady Coventry was the daughter of Aubrey, sixth Duke of St. Albans, and the wife of George William, eighth Earl of Coventry, and the mother of Lady Holland. She died in 1845. Mr. Milnes (Lord Houghton) gave Sumner a letter of introduction to her. had retired to Albano, where she invited me to visit her: I did not go. Others had fled in different directions. In Florence, the Marquesa Lenzonis Medicis—the last of this great family—invited me to her soirees:I went to one. The Marquis Strozzi called upon me: I had not the grace to return his call. The Cou
Hannibal (Missouri, United States) (search for this): chapter 14
riends I have learned some lessons in economy. It is to me astonishing to observe the nicety with which they drive a bargain; and as one of them has always held our common purse and acted as manager, I have had the benefit of it without the trouble. To-morrow we start together, in a carriage we have hired, for Rome. Rome, May 21. I am in the Eternal City. We passed through dirty Capua (shorn of all its soft temptations); with difficulty found a breakfast of chocolate and bread where Hannibal's victorious troops wasted with luxury and excess; enjoyed the perfume of the orange and lemon trees that line the way in the territories of Naples; at midnight awoke the last gendarme of his Neapolitan Majesty, who swung open the heavy gates through which we entered the territories of the Supreme Pontiff; rode all night; crossed for twenty-eight miles the Pontine marshes; and at length, from the heights of Alba, near the tomb of the Curiatii, descried the dome of St. Peter's and Rome! I
Georgia (Georgia, United States) (search for this): chapter 14
keep clear, quite clear, of debatable ground. Sumner frequented at Florence the studio of Powers, who was then at work upon his Eve. He formed at the same time a pleasant acquaintance with Richard Henry Wilde,—once a member of Congress from Georgia,—then pursuing researches for a Life of Dante, on which he was engaged. At Wilde's request, he traced out at Ferrara some manuscripts of Tasso, and afterwards at Venice others connected with Dante. In Florence, he met a tourist from Boston, al. When I told him that Prescott used his eyes considerably now, he exclaimed in English: God, what a happy man he must be! I like Capponi much, and regret that I saw so little of him. Of Wilde Richard Henry Wilde, 1789-1847. He represented Georgia in Congress at different times, from 1815 to 1835; was in Europe from 1835 to 1840, residing much of the time in Florence; published a book on The Love, Madness, and Imprisonment of Tasso; undertook a Life of Dante, which he did not live to comp
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