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August 10th (search for this): chapter 7
ut up in its place [the church of Sta. Maria Gloriosa] in a cross light, . . . . and that the three centuries of tapers that piety has burned under it, and of incense it has offered up to it, had so completely incrusted it with a coat of black varnish, that in the best and strongest light not a feature of the original work could be properly distinguished. . . . . On carefully cleaning it, the picture was found perfect, after three months labor, for the smoke had preserved it; and on the 10th of August last (1817) it was first opened to the public. It is the finest picture, I suppose, that I have yet seen in Europe, excepting the Madonna of Raphael at Dresden. . . . . This immense picture with its various subjects and groups becomes one work, and seems united in all its parts, as if the artist had breathed it upon the canvas by a simple volition of his genius. After standing before it above an hour, I knew not which most to admire,—the poetical sublimity of the invention, or the bold
September (search for this): chapter 7
ty. As it was not sunset, he carried us out to see the grounds of the convent. It stands on the highest part of the passage, but still in a sort of valley, between mountains two or three thousand feet higher than itself, whose summits are bright with eternal snows. Near it is a little lake, said to be about thirty feet deep, and on its borders, under the shelter of its high, rocky banks, the monks have placed some earth that they have brought up the mountain . . . . and in the months of September and August they are able, with great care and difficulty, to raise a little lettuce and spinach . . . . . On the very summit of the road winds a brook, with a stone laid across it, divided by a line in the centre, and marked on each side with the arms of Savoy and the Valais; it is the boundary between the two powers, and, for the first time, I found myself on Italian ground, and could not choose but exclaim, with the son of Aeneas, Italiam, Italiam! for I seemed at once to have reached a
September 2nd (search for this): chapter 7
et. Sir Francis d'ivernois. Bonstetten. Fete by a Russian Countess. Madame Neckar de Saussure. leaves Geneva for Rom. Convent of St. Bernard. Milan. Venice. visit to Lord Byron. Bologna. Loretto. arrival in Rome. Journal. September 2.—This morning I left Paris, and I have not left any city with so little regret. A few friends, indeed, I have left there, to whom I owe many favors and much genuine kindness; but I never knew so many people, and knew them so long, where I fou'ai pas. She is about fifty, and resembles Mad. de Stael a little, and is interesting in conversation from a certain dignity and force in her remarks. To Elisha Ticknor. Geneva, September 19, 1817. I left Paris, as I told you I should, September 2d, with the Duke de Broglie and the Baron de Stael, who were to pass a week with the Marquis de Lafayette. My time was more limited, and when, after a visit of three days, I found I must leave his venerable castle, I felt that it had been much
September 6th (search for this): chapter 7
Paris and the world without feeling respect for his enthusiasm of character, his unalterable honesty, and his open simplicity; but it is impossible to see him in the country, in his home and in his family, without loving him. He is now sixty, with the constitution, health, and appearance of forty-five. His wife is dead; and as his three children, a son and two daughters, were married, he gave them a part of his fortune, and begged them to live with him as much as they could. Lausanne, September 6.—I passed three short and happy days at La Grange. . . . . Everybody rose at the time he pleased, and breakfasted at the hour he chose, in his own room, or at half past 9 with the family. In the morning we drove or walked, and those who did not choose to remain in their chambers went to the salon, where company was always to be found. Dinner at half past 5; somewhat later the household went to their apartments, but all met in the salon at ten and passed two very happy hours together.
September 10th (search for this): chapter 7
d three short and happy days at La Grange. . . . . Everybody rose at the time he pleased, and breakfasted at the hour he chose, in his own room, or at half past 9 with the family. In the morning we drove or walked, and those who did not choose to remain in their chambers went to the salon, where company was always to be found. Dinner at half past 5; somewhat later the household went to their apartments, but all met in the salon at ten and passed two very happy hours together. Geneva, September 10.—This evening I passed at Mad. Rilliet's, to whom the Duchess de Broglie gave me a letter. She was a particular friend of Mad. de Stael's, and is a lady of large fortune, much talent, and elegant manners. Benjamin Constant said of her, with that kind of wit peculiar to the French, and which he possesses beyond any Frenchman I met in Paris, Mad. Rilliet a toutes les vertus qu'elle affecte; for there is a certain stateliness and pretension in her manner that reminds you of affectation.
September 11th (search for this): chapter 7
This evening I passed at Mad. Rilliet's, to whom the Duchess de Broglie gave me a letter. She was a particular friend of Mad. de Stael's, and is a lady of large fortune, much talent, and elegant manners. Benjamin Constant said of her, with that kind of wit peculiar to the French, and which he possesses beyond any Frenchman I met in Paris, Mad. Rilliet a toutes les vertus qu'elle affecte; for there is a certain stateliness and pretension in her manner that reminds you of affectation. September 11.—I dined to-day with M. de la Rive, to whom I had an introduction from Sir Humphry Davy. He is a specimen, I suppose, of the state of society, manners, and improvement in Geneva which deserves notice. In the first place, his fortune is large, and yet he lives without luxury; for wealth is often expressed here chiefly in simple hospitality. He is the representative of one of the oldest families of the republic, and yet he is devoted to science,—a man of genius and learning, and actually
September 12th (search for this): chapter 7
found a fine specimen of Genevan character. M. Favre is the richest, or one of the richest, citizens of Geneva, and lives here in a beautiful establishment on the borders of the lake, but it is as simple as it is beautiful; there is no appearance of luxury, no pretension in his manners, and it would be difficult to find any indication of a large fortune, except in his fine library, and in the leisure it has given him, through which he has gained an elegant and scientific cultivation. September 12.—I went to-day with Sir Francis d'ivernois, to dine at his country-place, a few miles from town. He is the man who was famous in Russia, who was knighted in England, and who has been one of the prominent citizens of Geneva since the fall of Bonaparte has permitted him to return from exile, and he is now one of the important members of the Council of State. There were several other members of the Council there, and the President de la Rive; so that the dinner was very pleasant, and I hea
September 13th (search for this): chapter 7
much of the fashionable and respectable society of the city; and I observed that the ladies were handsomer than at Paris, but not so graceful; and seemingly more genuinely and simply kind and amiable, but not so ostentatiously gracious. Among other strangers, I found Simond, author of the Travels in England, a man of fifty, talking little, but in such a manner as to make others talk to him; with few apparent prejudices, and yet in all respects a decisive way of thinking and judging. September 13.—The Baron de Bonstetten, formerly in the government of Berne, but a Genevan, and the author of several metaphysical and political works, has been uncommonly kind to me ever since I have been in Geneva. To-day he invited me to a dinner, where I found myself surrounded by the corpus Academicum, and a representation of the Bibliotheque Britannique. I was struck with the exhibition of talent I witnessed, and particularly with De Candolle, professor of botany, who has great powers of conver
September 14th (search for this): chapter 7
lent I witnessed, and particularly with De Candolle, professor of botany, who has great powers of conversation, without that perpetual attempt at brilliancy and epigram which I found in Paris society, and which I have found here only in Dumont. In the evening I went to a large party at Dr. Buttini's, the first physician in Geneva. I found most of the society I met last evening, but was so much interested by the conversation of President de la Rive that I made few new acquaintances. September 14.—A Russian Countess Bruess is living here, and finding it difficult to spend an income—said to be a million of francs a year —amuses herself with giving such entertainments as the simple Genevans rarely see. Just at this time the birthday of her friend Princess Kourakin occurs, and as she is here on a visit, the Countess determined to give a fete which should eclipse all her former magnificence. At eight o'clock we found ourselves at her country place, on the borders of the lake, and by <
September 16th (search for this): chapter 7
en to the conservatory, which was fancifully illuminated, and where we found a supper was prepared; but the scene was so beautiful, and the arrangements made with so much taste, that a great many of the party preferred to walk up and down, to see this fairy feast prepared amidst odorous shrubs and illuminated orange groves, to sharing its luxuries. The entertainment ended with a ball, which finished I know not when, for I left it, wearied out, at two o'clock in the morning. On the 16th of September Mr. Ticknor joined Dr. Edward Reynolds, Mr. Edward Brooks of Boston, and Dr. Wagner of South Carolina, in an excursion to Mont Blanc, which occupied three days, and excited and delighted him intensely. His description of these scenes, so new to him, is full, animated, and glowing. In the evening of my return (19th), I passed a couple of hours at a party at Mad. Necker's, This lady, known as Mad. Necker de Saussure, published in 1828 a work in three volumes, called L'Education P
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