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Byron (search for this): chapter 7
ascending the Oronoco. They are now in all respects so different that I hardly think they will ever undertake the expedition. When I happened to tell Lord Byron that Goethe had many personal enemies in Germany, he expressed a kind of interest to know more about it that looked extremely like Shylock's satisfaction that other men have ill luck too; and when I added the story of the translation of the whole of a very unfair Edinburgh review into German, directly under Goethe's nose at Jena, Byron discovered at first a singular eagerness to hear it, and then, suddenly checking himself, said, as if half in earnest, though still laughing, And yet I don't know what sympathy I can have with Goethe, unless it be that of an injured author. This was the truth, but it was evidently a little more than sympathy he felt. In the whole I stayed an hour and a half with them, and Lord Byron asked me to spend some days,—an invitation I, of course, felt no inclination to accept, in his present ci
Auguste Schlegel (search for this): chapter 7
e to Prof. Pictet's, the worthy successor of De Saussure in the University, and the chief man in the Bibliotheque Britannique. We stayed only a little while, and then went a mile out of town, to M. Favre Bertrand's, where I was introduced by Auguste Schlegel, and where we passed a delightful evening. Here again I found a fine specimen of Genevan character. M. Favre is the richest, or one of the richest, citizens of Geneva, and lives here in a beautiful establishment on the borders of the lake,which must always be numbered among the finest remains of antiquity. Their early history is uncertain, and has lately been disputed with much warmth, and with a waste of obscure learning, by Count Cicognara, President of the Academy of Venice, Schlegel, Mustoxidis, a native of Corcyra and a member of the French Institute, and Dandolo, a young Venetian patrician of talent and acuteness. Six pamphlets have been published, and the war is not at an end. The question is, whether these four horses
M. De La Rive (search for this): chapter 7
Chapter 7: Mr. Ticknor leaves Paris. visit to La Grange. Geneva. M. De La Rive. Professor Pictet. Sir Francis d'ivernois. Bonstetten. Fete by a Russian Countess. Madame Neckar de Saussure. leaves Geneva for Rom. Convent of St. Bernard. Milan. Venice. visit to Lord Byron. Bologna. Loretto. arrival in Roms vertus qu'elle affecte; for there is a certain stateliness and pretension in her manner that reminds you of affectation. September 11.—I dined to-day with M. de la Rive, to whom I had an introduction from Sir Humphry Davy. He is a specimen, I suppose, of the state of society, manners, and improvement in Geneva which deserves his wealth only in his hospitality, his fine library, and the good use he makes of his leisure; and what perhaps is an instance absolutely unique in the world, M. de la Rive, the chief magistrate of the state, and a man of fortune, is a very distinguished chemist, and actually gives lectures on the science as sedulously and thoroug
C. G. G. Botta (search for this): chapter 7
s one work, and seems united in all its parts, as if the artist had breathed it upon the canvas by a simple volition of his genius. After standing before it above an hour, I knew not which most to admire,—the poetical sublimity of the invention, or the boldness of the execution, and that magic and transparency of coloring in which Titian has no rival October 19.—As in all the Italian cities, so in Venice, there is little society, and the persons I have known who have lived there, such as Botta, De Breme, the Baron de Bonstetten, etc., have all told me it was to be seen best at Count Cicognara's. To him, therefore, they gave me letters, and I have found their predictions justified, and his acquaintance sufficient for my purposes, and for all the time I could give to society. He is a nobleman of fortune, President of the Academy of Fine Arts, and author of several considerable works, particularly a History of Modern Sculpture,—beginning at the third century, where Winckelmann leave<
Marchetti (search for this): chapter 7
aces in Bologna, would be open to me every evening. She is still young, not above thirty, I should think, very beautiful, with uncommonly sweet and engaging manners and talents, which make her at once the centre of literary and elegant society in Bologna, and the friend and correspondent of Monti, Canova, Brougham, and many others of the first men of the times we live in. Last evening there were few persons at her coterie. Only two or three men of letters, a young Greek from Corcyra, a Count Marchetti and his pretty wife, Lord John Russell, and a few others. The conversation was chiefly literary, and so adroitly managed by Mad. Martinetti as to make it general, but as two of the persons present were strangers it began to fail at last, and she resorted to the very games we play in America to keep it up, and with her wit and talent kept us amused till after midnight. This evening it was a more splendid meeting, though still quite informal. She gave a concert, at which were presen
J. J. Rousseau (search for this): chapter 7
tupendous works and movements of nature. Farewell, my dear father and mother,—farewell from the beautiful shores of the Lake of Geneva; from the birthplace of Rousseau, and the tomb of Mad. de Stael; and what is more, from the country made classical by the traces their genius has everywhere left in it. Day after to-morrow, Bat with him till a late hour, talking of his early life in Berne and his acquaintance with Gray. Journal. September 22.—I left the city of Calvin, Bonnet, Rousseau, and Mad. de Stael this morning at eight o'clock, with my friend Brooks, who makes with me the tour of Italy in a post-chaise. Our route was the famous Route ofaters induced the ancients to think it rushed out from the secret recesses of the earth and the realms of eternal night. After tracing the scenes described by Rousseau, and going over the Castle of Chillon, we crossed the lake to St. Gingoulph, and took horses in sad earnest to leave it. . . . . September 24.—As it is our in<
Russian Countess (search for this): chapter 7
Chapter 7: Mr. Ticknor leaves Paris. visit to La Grange. Geneva. M. De La Rive. Professor Pictet. Sir Francis d'ivernois. Bonstetten. Fete by a Russian Countess. Madame Neckar de Saussure. leaves Geneva for Rom. Convent of St. Bernard. Milan. Venice. visit to Lord Byron. Bologna. Loretto. arrival in Rome. Journal. September 2.—This morning I left Paris, and I have not left any city with so little regret. A few friends, indeed, I have left there, to whom I owe many favors and much genuine kindness; but I never knew so many people, and knew them so long, where I found so much occasion to be familiar, and so little to be intimate; where there was so much to amuse, and so little to attach my affections. Two of those who have seemed to take the most interest in me, and whose kindness I shall never forget,—the Duke de Broglie and Auguste de Stael,—proposed to me to accompany them to La Grange, where they were to visit General Lafayette, without comp<
Christina (search for this): chapter 7
ntirely, were naturally supposed to be his by superficial inquirers; and secondly, that among the painters on this ware, there was a certain Raphael Colle, whose name was easily confounded with that of the most famous of painters. The collection at Loretto is the best extant of all this kind of ware, and is beautiful and curious. The subjects are taken from Ovid's Metamorphoses, the Roman History, the Old and New Testaments; the colors are fresh and fair, and the execution so fine that Christina of Sweden offered to replace them with silver jars of equal weight,— and they are thick and heavy,—but was refused. After a long and careful sketch of the history of the Campagna from the earliest times, and of the speculations as to the causes of its unhealthiness, Mr. Ticknor says:— The present situation is that of a boundless waste, over which the eye wanders without finding any other horizon than that formed by the gentle undulations which everywhere break it, without relieving<
Ancona (search for this): chapter 7
d. Martinetti for her own sake, and not for the sake of her music, enjoyed a conversation which lasted till one o'clock, and made me regret more than ever that it is the last which I shall have with her and her polished and cultivated friends. Ancona, October 28.—We had caught several glimpses of the glories of the Adriatic yesterday; and to-day, after passing through Pesaro, descended absolutely upon its beach, which we hardly left a moment for above thirty miles until we arrived at Ancona. Ancona. The heavens were not dimmed by a single cloud; the long surge of the ocean came rolling up, and broke in foam at our feet, as it does on the beach at Nahant; the Apennines rose majestically on our right, and the little interval between was covered with the gayest and most luxuriant vegetation. It was a union of the grandeur of mountain scenery and the simple sublimity of the ocean with the calm and gentle beauty of an agricultural landscape such as I had never seen before, and it had a charm a
Necker De Saussure (search for this): chapter 7
hat from the evening I arrived I have hardly been a moment alone. The society is such as I most like; much more to my taste than the gayer and more witty circles in Paris, of which I had a complete surfeit. Almost every person I know here is an important man in the government of their little republic, and yet, such is the genius of the government and the tendency of society, that, except Sir Francis d'ivernois, all are men of letters. For instance, Prof. Pictet, the worthy successor of Saussure, Prof. De Candolle, and Prof. Prevost, the three great pillars of the University, are at the same time important members of the Council of State. M. Favre, the richest man in the city, shows his wealth only in his hospitality, his fine library, and the good use he makes of his leisure; and what perhaps is an instance absolutely unique in the world, M. de la Rive, the chief magistrate of the state, and a man of fortune, is a very distinguished chemist, and actually gives lectures on the sci
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