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Canada (Canada) (search for this): chapter 34
personal friendship and kept up a correspondence afterward; while the Emperors of Russia and Germany and Japan, the Viceroy of India and the Magnates of Cuba and Canada and Mexico talked politics to him and religion from their own several standpoints. The greatest potentates of earth laid aside their rules and showed him a courgeneration hardly remembers, but which equaled any ever paid to an American. I went with him when he left his country for the first time—it was to pass through Canada in 1865. We spent a day or two at Montreal and Quebec, and then came the first premonitions of the honors destined to be heaped upon him abroad twelve and fourteen years afterward. The Governor-General of Canada offered him a dinner, and put him in the royal pew; the Canadian towns welcomed him almost as if he had saved their country or led their armies. I met him when he landed in England in 1877, and accompanied him, by permission of the Government, wherever he went in Great Britain
Cuba (Cuba) (search for this): chapter 34
elcomed a Protestant and a democrat who did not kneel. With him the King of Siam contracted a personal friendship and kept up a correspondence afterward; while the Emperors of Russia and Germany and Japan, the Viceroy of India and the Magnates of Cuba and Canada and Mexico talked politics to him and religion from their own several standpoints. The greatest potentates of earth laid aside their rules and showed him a courtesy which was due of course in part to the nation he represented; but whoould not carry the creature with him around the world and ordered it sent to my house in London. There two months later the noble brute arrived. It has been one of my most constant companions since; it crossed the ocean with me, and even went to Cuba, far enough from its native snows; and more than once, as friend after friend proved false, the fond fidelity of Ponto has recalled the bitter words of De Stael: The more I see of men, the better I appreciate dogs. Chamounix was hung with flags
Saint Petersburg (Florida, United States) (search for this): chapter 34
the hotel where a tenor singer wanted General Grant to patronize his concert. The General did not think this worth his while, and then the tenor spitefully exclaimed that General Grant might as well go to his concert as to the house of a former prima donna. The Princess was indeed an American girl who had come to Italy to study for the opera; she had sung at La Scala and San Carlo, and pleased the fancy of the Prince, who married her. But she could not go to court, nor be recognized at St. Petersburg. This was why she lived in Italy. This accounted for the portraits of Lucrezia and Semiramide. There was no harm done; the Princess was married; but she had kept back her story when she invited Mrs. Grant. Her companion had an engagement at the time at the Neapolitan opera. Nevertheless the villa was beautiful, the lake was Italian, and the Princess was real, like her lace and her red rose. At Thusis there was another incident. One Sunday morning after the late Continental break
Italian (search for this): chapter 34
ra; she had sung at La Scala and San Carlo, and pleased the fancy of the Prince, who married her. But she could not go to court, nor be recognized at St. Petersburg. This was why she lived in Italy. This accounted for the portraits of Lucrezia and Semiramide. There was no harm done; the Princess was married; but she had kept back her story when she invited Mrs. Grant. Her companion had an engagement at the time at the Neapolitan opera. Nevertheless the villa was beautiful, the lake was Italian, and the Princess was real, like her lace and her red rose. At Thusis there was another incident. One Sunday morning after the late Continental breakfast we were waiting for the vetturino, and sat in an arbor without the inn, looking up to the Via Mala. There was a little gate that opened on the arbor, and to this there came a short but stately woman of sixty years or more, dressed in black without a bonnet, but holding a parasol. She walked straight up to the group and looking over t
Villa Ada (search for this): chapter 34
At a charming spot on one of the Italian lakes, where we staid for a day cr two, one evening after dinner a Princess was announced—a handsome, sumptuous woman, with a famous Russian name. She came across the lake in her boat through the twilight, with attendants and a female friend, and was dressed in black, with a lace shawl thrown over her head and a blush red rose in her hair. She came to ask the General and his party to visit her villa in the neighborhood, called after herself, the Villa Ada. The Princess was an American, she explained, but had married a great Russian, and was living away from home to educate her boys. The Prince unfortunately was absent, but she hoped to receive her great countryman at a mid-day dinner. General Grant accepted the invitation promptly, for he always availed himself of pleasant opportunities, like a true traveler; but Mrs. Grant could not say at once if she was disengaged. With a woman's instinct she wanted to find out more about her hostess
Antaeus (search for this): chapter 34
g from work, or in their shops, or on their little farms; or at play or festival. At Domo d'ossola there was a charming fete, with fireworks, dances, and music for Our Lady of the Snows. He made me ask the peasants questions in their own language, for he was no linguist, as the world knows; but he got at the people quickly and often was himself his own and best interpreter. Nothing in all his travel delighted or interested him more than this going direct to the people themselves. It was Antaeus touching earth. But he was sufficiently courteous to those who thought themselves the great, when they came to offer him civilities. He was by no means indifferent to the evidences of his distinction. At a charming spot on one of the Italian lakes, where we staid for a day cr two, one evening after dinner a Princess was announced—a handsome, sumptuous woman, with a famous Russian name. She came across the lake in her boat through the twilight, with attendants and a female friend, and
Heidelberg Grant (search for this): chapter 34
y such as Catharine of Arragon performed to Henry VIII., put up her black silk parasol again, and sailed away. At Heidelberg Grant met Wagner. The King of Music came to call on the man whose deeds were greater than any the other had ever celebratellows in so widely different ways could speak the other's language. Wagner, master as he was of expression, was mute in Grant's presence, and Grant, whose character is akin, perhaps, to that of Wagner's heroes, was able only to reach the musicianGrant, whose character is akin, perhaps, to that of Wagner's heroes, was able only to reach the musician through an interpreter. Yet the meeting at this historic place, under the shadow of the ruined palace with its memories—of the latest master of modern art with the greatest warrior of American history—was an event worth chronicling. If Wagner hadion where bards and heroes perhaps are equal; where the laurel is bestowed alike on deeds and thoughts. I was with General Grant in Rome, but there is no disguising the fact that he did not appreciate pictures or statuary. He refused to admire t
Yankee Doodle (search for this): chapter 34
care for the Apollo or the Laocoon. He got tired of the Sistine Chapel, and poked fun at me when I wanted to look once more at the Last Judgment of Michael Angelo. He would not pretend. He was blind always to the beauties of art. I don't think he could ever tell a good picture from a bad one. In the same way he was utterly deaf to music. He never knew one tune from another; he thought he could distinguish Hail to the Chief, it was played so often for him; but if it was changed for Yankee Doodle he did not know the difference. I more than once heard him say at balls, he could dance very well if it wasn't for the music; that always put him out. He took no interest even in Venice, and never wanted to see its famous Stones a second time. He had some slight appreciation of architecture, but not a keen one. The grandeur and form of the great cathedrals made an impression on him, but he liked Thebes better than Milan, the Pyramids than Cologne. The preference was typical. It was
Nellie Grant (search for this): chapter 34
ept according to the rules; and as a consular officer I was familiar with the methods. I endeavored to explain this, but the beneficent stranger did not care for rules, she wanted the interposition of the ex-President; the deus ex machine. Finally, however, she learned just how much or how little General Grant could do in the matter, and turned to take her leave. As she rose she said she had had the pleasure of knowing General Grant's daughter in England; young Sartoris, who had married Nellie Grant, was her nephew. Then I knew where I had seen the low forehead and stately air and heard the deep rich tones; for this was Fanny Kemble. The connections exchanged a few further remarks, and the dramatic personage made another courtesy such as Catharine of Arragon performed to Henry VIII., put up her black silk parasol again, and sailed away. At Heidelberg Grant met Wagner. The King of Music came to call on the man whose deeds were greater than any the other had ever celebrated in so
Jesse (search for this): chapter 34
ain scenery, for I had never been with him in such regions before. But I was wrong. We traveled from Geneva to Chamounix and then by the Tete Noire to the Valley of the Rhone, in one of the ordinary open Swiss carriages, General and Mrs. Grant, Jesse and myself; and from the moment when we first approached Mt. Blanc so as to perceive its majesty, General Grant was as profoundly impressed as any of the party. He betrayed what to me was an entirely new side of his nature. At Chamounix we remal to the luncheon. The villa was charming, the situation perfect; scenery, sky, terraces, flowers—all Italian. The Princess was stately; her manner became her rank; she was not more than forty, if so old; very handsome and especially amiable to Jesse, for Mrs. Grant always awed even Princesses if they paid too much attention to her great husband. We noticed many portraits of the Princess in theatrical costumes, Lucrezia, Semiramide, Norma; and her highness explained that she was fond of fanc
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