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Charybdis (California, United States) (search for this): chapter 35
Chapter 35: The Wanderings of Ulysses. The modern Ulysses traveled further than his classic namesake; and his Penelope accompanied him. They once came upon the course of the ancient hero, and sailing along the Italian and Sicilian shores the story of the Odyssey was told again. Mrs. Grant liked to be shown where the son of Laertes had landed, where he escaped from Calypso, or avoided Scylla or Charybdis. But the practical General was more curious about geography than mythology. The coasts and channels he inspected closely, but cared nothing for the fables of Homeric origin. Ancient history itself hardly interested him. I remember that in Rome, when I talked of the Forum and the Capitol, he replied that they seemed recent to him after Memphis and the Sphinx, which he had seen. Remote antiquity impressed him; but the venerable associations that scholars prize had no charm for Grant. There was little room in his nature for sentiment, though abundance of genuine feeling.
Brussels (Belgium) (search for this): chapter 35
So, too, on Lake Luzerne, though he was never indifferent to mountains, the railroad on the Righi interested him far more than the famous scenery, and he examined the highway of the Axenstrasse more carefully than the chapel of William Tell. At Cadenabbia he refused to visit the Villa Carlotta to see the marbles of Canova and Thorwaldsen, and at Berne he was vexed with his son, Jesse, and with me, because we insisted on viewing the Cathedral. He said we had seen Cologne and Mayence and Brussels, why should we waste our time on any more architecture. He was indeed a little unreasonable at first, as a traveler. If he could not discern the beauties of a cathedral or a gallery, he would not believe that others did. But later he became more catholic; he found out that there might be things in heaven and earth he had not dreamed of in his earlier philosophy. In that same Berne he made me walk for hours with him, turning away from the Cathedral and the Bernese Oberland, to stray til
Marseilles (France) (search for this): chapter 35
But the mother hesitated to trust her children to a stranger. He delayed a moment, and then, blushing up to the eyes, he stammered: I am General Grant. The woman looked at the features that were known to every American, and exclaimed: Why, so you are! And he took her babies to Long Branch. All his experiences were not like these. I had a score of letters from him telling of his reception by Asiatic sovereigns and Egyptian and Indian Viceroys, for I did not go with him further than Marseilles. Some curious things occurred in his Asiatic journey. In India the Governor-General and all the subordinate officials were profuse in courtesy and hospitality, and General Grant never failed to appreciate and remember their behavior. But there were indications after a while that they must have received instructions from home not to pay too much deference to the ex-President. He believed that the British Government was unwilling to admit to the half-civilized populations of the East th
Cologne (North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany) (search for this): chapter 35
the prime of his renown. So, too, on Lake Luzerne, though he was never indifferent to mountains, the railroad on the Righi interested him far more than the famous scenery, and he examined the highway of the Axenstrasse more carefully than the chapel of William Tell. At Cadenabbia he refused to visit the Villa Carlotta to see the marbles of Canova and Thorwaldsen, and at Berne he was vexed with his son, Jesse, and with me, because we insisted on viewing the Cathedral. He said we had seen Cologne and Mayence and Brussels, why should we waste our time on any more architecture. He was indeed a little unreasonable at first, as a traveler. If he could not discern the beauties of a cathedral or a gallery, he would not believe that others did. But later he became more catholic; he found out that there might be things in heaven and earth he had not dreamed of in his earlier philosophy. In that same Berne he made me walk for hours with him, turning away from the Cathedral and the Berne
Switzerland (Switzerland) (search for this): chapter 35
nection with his great compeers after his return. He corresponded with more than one King, and when the history of his campaigns, on which I had been engaged for fifteen years, and in which his interest had been almost equal to my own—was at last complete—he sent a copy to every potentate all over the world by whom he had been entertained; to the Mikado of Japan and to Bismarck; to the Viceroy of India and the Kings of Siam and Sweden and Greece; the Prince of Wales and the Presidents of Switzerland and the French Republic; and every one acknowledged the present except the Prince of Wales. The collection of these letters was of course peculiarly interesting to me, and he allowed me to keep it for years; but I returned it to him unasked, for his family, whose claims upon it I thought superior to my own. In June, 1882, he wrote me a letter from which I copy the postscript: The mail lying before me when you were in had the acknowledgments from Lytton [Lord Lytton, then Viceroy of Ind
Jesse (search for this): chapter 35
s scenery, and he examined the highway of the Axenstrasse more carefully than the chapel of William Tell. At Cadenabbia he refused to visit the Villa Carlotta to see the marbles of Canova and Thorwaldsen, and at Berne he was vexed with his son, Jesse, and with me, because we insisted on viewing the Cathedral. He said we had seen Cologne and Mayence and Brussels, why should we waste our time on any more architecture. He was indeed a little unreasonable at first, as a traveler. If he could nath of mountain air or the smell of the pine woods. Once, in the Brunig Pass, on the way to Thun, we stopped at a chalet where we dined. It was just beyond the great rock, which travelers will remember, that overhangs the Pass. General Grant, Jesse, and I strolled on after dinner in advance of the vetturino, and the carriage came up to us empty. Mrs. Grant was not within. Her maid was called, and, almost crying, said she had not seen her mistress for nearly a quarter of an hour. We searc
Albert Edward (search for this): chapter 35
ithout being coarse or ever in any way vulgar, he still was not over-refined. He had a healthy naturalness that affiliated with plain people, though it was not offended with princes. Yet he did not like these last because they were princes, as so many democrats do. He found out their human traits and touched them there. In this way he liked the Prince of Wales, despite the discourtesy of Marlborough House, because there is in the Prince a vein of heartiness which Grant discovered. If Albert Edward had not been royal he might have been a good fellow; and Grant and he could have played cards or billiards together and enjoyed themselves. Grant's own naturalness was always as refreshing as a breath of mountain air or the smell of the pine woods. Once, in the Brunig Pass, on the way to Thun, we stopped at a chalet where we dined. It was just beyond the great rock, which travelers will remember, that overhangs the Pass. General Grant, Jesse, and I strolled on after dinner in adva
Canova (search for this): chapter 35
and the weapons in the tomb, but unmoved by the strangeness of the spectacle—the exhuming of a forgotten warrior for the inspection of another still in the prime of his renown. So, too, on Lake Luzerne, though he was never indifferent to mountains, the railroad on the Righi interested him far more than the famous scenery, and he examined the highway of the Axenstrasse more carefully than the chapel of William Tell. At Cadenabbia he refused to visit the Villa Carlotta to see the marbles of Canova and Thorwaldsen, and at Berne he was vexed with his son, Jesse, and with me, because we insisted on viewing the Cathedral. He said we had seen Cologne and Mayence and Brussels, why should we waste our time on any more architecture. He was indeed a little unreasonable at first, as a traveler. If he could not discern the beauties of a cathedral or a gallery, he would not believe that others did. But later he became more catholic; he found out that there might be things in heaven and earth h
Lytton (search for this): chapter 35
at last complete—he sent a copy to every potentate all over the world by whom he had been entertained; to the Mikado of Japan and to Bismarck; to the Viceroy of India and the Kings of Siam and Sweden and Greece; the Prince of Wales and the Presidents of Switzerland and the French Republic; and every one acknowledged the present except the Prince of Wales. The collection of these letters was of course peculiarly interesting to me, and he allowed me to keep it for years; but I returned it to him unasked, for his family, whose claims upon it I thought superior to my own. In June, 1882, he wrote me a letter from which I copy the postscript: The mail lying before me when you were in had the acknowledgments from Lytton [Lord Lytton, then Viceroy of India], the first received. Next I believe was from the King of Siam. It was the reward of my labors that I was allowed to share these congratulations with the conqueror of Lee and the guest of the nations and the rulers of Europe and Asia
Scylla (search for this): chapter 35
Chapter 35: The Wanderings of Ulysses. The modern Ulysses traveled further than his classic namesake; and his Penelope accompanied him. They once came upon the course of the ancient hero, and sailing along the Italian and Sicilian shores the story of the Odyssey was told again. Mrs. Grant liked to be shown where the son of Laertes had landed, where he escaped from Calypso, or avoided Scylla or Charybdis. But the practical General was more curious about geography than mythology. The coasts and channels he inspected closely, but cared nothing for the fables of Homeric origin. Ancient history itself hardly interested him. I remember that in Rome, when I talked of the Forum and the Capitol, he replied that they seemed recent to him after Memphis and the Sphinx, which he had seen. Remote antiquity impressed him; but the venerable associations that scholars prize had no charm for Grant. There was little room in his nature for sentiment, though abundance of genuine feeling. A
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