ee gates of entrance which form the front of the establishment,—the little village is within these gates, and before the palace, to which it serves only as offices and an appendage.
Farther up is the palace; then come the gardens with the very beautiful fountains; and then the whole is closed up by the mountain covered with fine woods, and filled, until lately, with all sorts of game. . . . . The first thing we went to see was the glass manufactory, a royal plaything established by Philip in 1726; but, what is remarkable, the only royal manufactory in Spain that yet pays its own expenses.
The work is ordinary, and in general trifling. . . . . From the manufactory we went with the governor, who came to find us, to the palace.
It is a mere repetition of Versailles in its outline and arrangement, and like that, has a fine facade towards the gardens, and a chapel in front where are deposited, in a plain sarcophagus, the bones of its founder.
The interior is finer, and better preserved
The great sin of both theatres is, that the majority of the longer pieces they represent are translations from ordinary French comedies, though it must be confessed they are becoming better in this respect; and that the national plays are coming more into fashion, and are oftener acted.
An opera-house they have not, nor are operas much in the Spanish taste and character, any more than tragedies.
Philip V., however, who brought in their foreign tastes, built an opera-house in 1730, but Ferdinand VII., for reasons which I do not know, has pulled it down.
Operas, notwithstanding this, are given alternately in the two theatres. . . . .
The great amusement—the national and prevailing amusement, which swallows up all the rest—is the fiestas de toros, the bull-fights.
It is purely and exclusively Spanish, and the passion with which it is sought by all classes, and with which it always seems to have been sought, is inconceivable to one who has not witnessed it; and would