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May 19th (search for this): chapter 25
36 from what it is now, five days being consumed in going to the Prussian capital, with halts for the night at Leipzic, Dessau, Wittenberg, and Potsdam, and three days required for the return. In Berlin, where Mr. Ticknor and his family arrived on the 17th of May, they witnessed a great review and sham fight of twenty thousand men, at which the Dukes of Orleans and Nemours were present, and on the 19th Mr. Ticknor began his visits, of which he describes the most interesting as follows:— May 19.—In the afternoon I made some visits, but found nobody . . . . except Neander, the Church historian, a perfect type of such German students as I used to see often when I was here before, but of whom this is the first specimen I have seen this time; living up three or four pair of stairs, buried in books, so near-sighted that he can see little more than an inch beyond his nose, and so ignorant of the world that the circle of his practical knowledge is not much wider than that of his vision; d
May 21st (search for this): chapter 25
re, and the least liked by the government, who have restrained him somewhat in the exercise of his functions as a teacher. It seemed, however, as if it could hardly be necessary, even on their own principles. He talked, to be sure, very freely upon political subjects, and I dare say may lecture very freely upon history, which is his principal branch but he seemed so round, easy, and fat, that I should hardly think there could be much that is dangerous in his mitigated radicalism. . . . May 21.—Mr. Forster having the good-nature to continue our cicerone, we have seen several things this morning very pleasantly. . . . . From the Gewerbe-Institut we were carried to an old building opposite, once the residence of the Margraves of Brandenburg, now containing, among other things, the ateliers of Rauch, Wach, and Tieck. . . . At Rauch's we saw many fine models of works, finished or undertaken,—four beautiful winged Victories in marble, for the King of Bavaria; a beautiful Danaide pourin
May 20th (search for this): chapter 25
of whom this is the first specimen I have seen this time; living up three or four pair of stairs, buried in books, so near-sighted that he can see little more than an inch beyond his nose, and so ignorant of the world that the circle of his practical knowledge is not much wider than that of his vision; dirty in his person, and in the midst of confusion; but learned withal, earnest, kind, and I thought conscientious. I should be glad to see more of him, and wish we had many such at home. May 20.—Mr. Forster Head of one of the public collections in the Arts, and formerly Professor in the University of Berlin. came this morning, and carried us to see the collection of antiques and the picture-gallery. . . . . The first we visited was the collection of antiques, which is placed partly in a fine rotunda in the centre of the building. . .. . It did not strike me as a very good collection in any respect .. . . . We saw it hastily, and shall go again, but two or three things struck me
May 23rd (search for this): chapter 25
l be good enough. He lives in the style of a nobleman of the first class, and gave us a very pleasant dinner. Von der Hagen, the editor of the Niebelungen, and the great scholar in whatever relates to the earliest German literature, dined there, with Brassier, the Prussian Secretary of Legation at Paris, Mr. Wheaton, and one or two others of whom I took no note. I talked a good deal with Von der Hagen, and was glad to find he is about to republish the Bodmer collection, with additions. May 23.—I visited by appointment to-day, at one o'clock, the Prime Minister, Ancillon, and found him a stout, easy, darkcom-plexioned gentleman, nearly seventy years old, with gray hair, almost white, dressing a little point device but with no air of fashion, and talking very well and liking to hear himself talk. He is by birth of Neufchatel, an old possession of the Prussian monarchy, which is kept from a principle of honor, not profit, so that, though a Frenchman in most respects, he is a born s
May 22nd (search for this): chapter 25
mes of letters addressed to her by Genz, W. von Humboldt, and many more distinguished men, with characters of them by himself, which excite a good deal of remark. Genz, it appears by them, was paid great sums of money by Pitt. The lady, however, under all circumstances, appears to great advantage, and was by common, if not universal consent, a very remarkable person, counting among her correspondents and intellectual admirers a very large number of the most distinguished men in Germany. May 22.—I dined to-day. . . . with Count Raczynski, a Pole of large fortune, a very handsome man, a man of letters, and given to the arts; has a pretty good collection of modern pictures, and is now about to publish, in three quartos, both in French and German, a history of recent painting in Germany, the plates for which he showed me,—or at least a number of them,—and if the work is as good as the engravings that illustrate it, it will be good enough. He lives in the style of a nobleman of the f<
May 25th (search for this): chapter 25
s of his own gallery; and in truth, though we enjoyed his lecture very much, we did not admire the collection any more than when we first saw it. In the afternoon we went to the Sing-Akademie, to hear a rehearsal of the music of Faust, composed by the late Prince Radzivil, and left by him as a legacy to this Institution. It is a curious establishment, which I think could not exist in any other country, and of which, I believe, no so good specimen is to be found, even in Germany. . . . May 25.—This morning we had the pleasure of going through the collection of gems and Greek vases, with Professor Tolken, their learned keeper and director. . . . . In the afternoon I kept my appointment with the Minister Ancillon, pour causer un peu. He was alone; comfortable, easy, and agreeable, as before. He talked about the systems of politics now prevalent in Europe, and, as far as I could learn, avowed his preference for a sort of juste milieu aristocratique, which would keep things quie
May 24th (search for this): chapter 25
is morning,. . . . telling me what a rafraichissement it was to escape from it, sometimes, an hour in the morning, and read a Latin or Greek book. I thought this affected, and in bad taste; but he talked well, and made phrases which, I am sure, pleased himself. He asked me to dinner to-day, but I was engaged; and then he asked me to come next day after to-morrow afternoon, between five and six o'clock, pour causer un peu, which I thought rather an idle business for a Minister of State. May 24.—. . . . After we had been through the vases and the gems, we met in the gallery of pictures, by appointment, its director, Waagen, Author of various works on art. who, in the course of about two hours and a half, went through the whole of it, so as to give us a view of the history of modern painting, from the Byzantine times down to the present. His great learning, his admirable taste, and his genuine enthusiasm made it very interesting; and it was easy, talking as he did, rapidly and w
7th (search for this): chapter 25
ith about fifteen thousand volumes, brought from different parts of the castle,—a grand room, well suited to its purposes. This morning they took us to the other side of the pile, where we passed through the billiard-room, and I know not how many suites of apartments for guests, to the chapel, capable of containing about three hundred persons, besides the gallery for the family, and where mass is performed every day, prayers chanted at morning, noon, and night, and the regular service on Sundays. On this side of the castle is a third dining-room, with antechambers, etc., where they dine in the hottest weather. . . . . But there must be an end to all things, and the time had now come when our visit must be closed. At about eleven o'clock, therefore, . . . . we were going to take our leave; but the family in a body insisted upon seeing us off, and, walking through their beautiful gardens, crossed the river with us, and parted from us most kindly, following us with waving of cap
1000 AD (search for this): chapter 25
At last, just as the mountains began to subside into gentler forms, and become covered with cultivation, we came in sight of Tetschen, an enormous mass of building, standing on a bold rock above the Elbe, with a corresponding rock still bolder on the other side, round the bases of both which are gathered—as is so often the case—a village, formed at first for protection, but now thriving with industry and trade. Tetschen is called a castle, and has been built at different times, from the year 1000, when it was a possession of the King of Bohemia, down to the last century, when, about 1706, the last additions were made, that gave it its present vast extent. It has, however, nothing military in its character, though it was held and fortified as a military position by the Austrians in the wars both of 1809 and 1813. We found a carriage on the shore, waiting to receive us, for we were coming to make a visit to the family at the castle, In the early spring, when forming his plans for
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