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Castile, N. Y. (New York, United States) (search for this): chapter 10
hey vary in different provinces. In Catalonia they are industrious and active; in Aragon, idle, proud, and faithful; in Castile, cold and rude, but still attaching themselves easily to those who are kind to them; and in Andalusia, light-hearted, giey are the hardiest and most enterprising of all the Spaniards, and, at the season of the harvest, may be found all over Castile and Estramadura, and even in Portugal, gathering it for the idle inhabitants; some remain afterwards as servants, and sout still with a beautiful entertainment. She had the finest garden in Madrid, and trusting to the invariable climate of Castile, used to illuminate it fancifully, and receiving her company there, made it a gay and graceful fete champetre, with dance ornaments and style are of the richest, most gorgeous Moorish architecture. It was once the residence of the kings of Castile, whose statues in wood, with those of the kings of Oviedo and Leon, from 700 to 1555, are all preserved here. For a lon
Toledo (Spain) (search for this): chapter 10
desolation. . . . . The convent itself is worthy of the severest influences of the most monkish ages. It is the only establishment I have ever met that satisfied all the ideas I had formed, of the size of a monastery such as Mrs. Radcliffe or Dennis Jasper Murphy describes, and which is here so immense that, in the space occupied by its chief staircase alone, a large house might be built. . . . . For two days I enjoyed walking about continually with the monks, the prior, and the Bishop of Toledo, who happened to be there. The church of the convent would be reckoned among the large churches of Rome, and the beautiful ones of Italy. The instant I entered it, its light, disencumbered arches and dome, its broad, fine naves, and its massy, imposing pilasters reminded me of Palladio's works at Venice. . . . . Immediately below the chief altar is the Pantheon, the burial-place of the kings. It is small and circular, made of the richest marbles, and ornamented with bronze and precious
Tuscany (Italy) (search for this): chapter 10
ts broad, fine naves, and its massy, imposing pilasters reminded me of Palladio's works at Venice. . . . . Immediately below the chief altar is the Pantheon, the burial-place of the kings. It is small and circular, made of the richest marbles, and ornamented with bronze and precious stones, yet in a very plain, simple style of architecture, and, from the solemn air that breathes through the whole of it, much better fitted to its purpose, than the gorgeous burial-place of the Grand Dukes of Tuscany. The sarcophagi are all of bronze, and all alike, ranged one above another to the height, I think, of six, and each plainly marked with the name of him whose ashes it contains. Seven kings rest here, beginning with Charles V., and seven queens, since none are interred in this sacred and glorious cell but such as have given succession to the empire. . . . . The libraries are an important part of this establishment. The lower one contains the printed books, all neatly bound in the same pla
Venice (Italy) (search for this): chapter 10
at, in the space occupied by its chief staircase alone, a large house might be built. . . . . For two days I enjoyed walking about continually with the monks, the prior, and the Bishop of Toledo, who happened to be there. The church of the convent would be reckoned among the large churches of Rome, and the beautiful ones of Italy. The instant I entered it, its light, disencumbered arches and dome, its broad, fine naves, and its massy, imposing pilasters reminded me of Palladio's works at Venice. . . . . Immediately below the chief altar is the Pantheon, the burial-place of the kings. It is small and circular, made of the richest marbles, and ornamented with bronze and precious stones, yet in a very plain, simple style of architecture, and, from the solemn air that breathes through the whole of it, much better fitted to its purpose, than the gorgeous burial-place of the Grand Dukes of Tuscany. The sarcophagi are all of bronze, and all alike, ranged one above another to the height,
Caesaraugusta (Spain) (search for this): chapter 10
n seldom fail,—the people demand an extra victim by acclamation, and it is uniformly granted. Great preparations are made long beforehand. Fine bulls are brought from all parts of the kingdom,—the best from La Mancha, Navarre, and Andalusia, and are pastured near Madrid. Two days before the festival they are driven in, and, to my great dismay, I have several times met them in my evening rides, for they do not always treat the persons they meet so civilly as they treated Don Quixote near Saragossa. . . . On their arrival they are shut up in a pasture near the amphitheatre, and on Sunday evenings great crowds of the common people go out to see them, as if it were a show. . . . . At length the long-desired day arrives, and, for all purposes of business, Madrid is like a Protestant Sunday. The whole city throngs to the circus, even to the very lowest class of the populace; and I have often seen more waiting on the outside-merely to hear, and echo and enjoy, the shouts and stories
Vesuvius (Italy) (search for this): chapter 10
ook leave of the prior and the bishop, and mounted my post-horse for St. Ildefonso. We galloped up the side of the mountain, by a fine bright evening, and descending partly down on the other side, came to St. Ildefonso,—or, as it is commonly called here, La Granja,—at ten o'clock, severely chilled, though in the plain the heat of the dog-star still rages; for St. Ildefonso is situated where no other monarch's palace is, in the region of the clouds, since it is higher up than the crater of Vesuvius, and precisely at that elevation where the great clouds are commonly formed in summer. See Humboldt, Configuration du sol de l'espagne. I sent my letter of introduction to Count Guaiaqui, a Peruvian nobleman of talent and an immense fortune, who was six years captain-general of his country, and has since refused the viceroyalty of Mexico. He called on me immediately, and brought the governor of the place, who offered me all sorts of civilities, and arranged my visit here, and at Segovia
Russia (Russia) (search for this): chapter 10
-thirty years old, who, though in the opposition, has made his way by talent and learning, and is soon to become a minister. For five years he had a travelling fellowship, and employed it in going through the interior of Asia, crossing down from Russia into Persia, and coming back by Palestine and Greece; altogether one of the most romantic expeditions I have ever heard of, and he himself altogether an interesting man. . . . . On Tuesday evening everybody went to the soiree of the Countess de did not meet at least once, and I shall always remember him with affection, for it is rare in Europe to meet a young man with so high talents and so pure a character. On Wednesday evening there was a convocation at the house of the Minister of Russia. He has of late played a bold part in Spanish politics, and a year ago had such personal and immediate influence with the king, that he could nominate or displace a ministry at will; but, since the unfortunate sale of the Russian fleet, his powe
Portugal (Portugal) (search for this): chapter 10
s the honesty of the individuals, and sometimes even inflicts secretly the punishment of death; but the government tolerates without acknowledging it, because the Gallegos are not unjust, and their opportunities and temptations to dishonesty are so great, that, though you never hear of an instance of it, much is due to their police. They are the hardiest and most enterprising of all the Spaniards, and, at the season of the harvest, may be found all over Castile and Estramadura, and even in Portugal, gathering it for the idle inhabitants; some remain afterwards as servants, and some are to be found in little shops and inns everywhere in Spain; but when they have accumulated a subsistence, they are almost sure to go home to die in peace at last. These different characters are so distinctly marked in the different provinces, that it seems as if you had changed country every time you pass from one to another; but still there are some traits in common to them all. One of the most striking
Segovia (Spain) (search for this): chapter 10
s. Spanish people. the Court. society in Madrid. the diplomatic corps. excursion to the Escorial. St. Ildefonso. Segovia. Journal. to me, the Prado is an inexhaustible source of amusement. In the first place, it is in itself the fately, and brought the governor of the place, who offered me all sorts of civilities, and arranged my visit here, and at Segovia, in the pleasantest manner. The following morning I began my operations, conducted by Count Guaiaqui, and, in the cours It is entirely the work of Philip V. Before his time there was nothing here but a farm-house, belonging to a convent of Segovia, which he bought, struck by the beauty of the situation and the refreshing coolness of the climate, which afforded a delred with which all there is at Versailles is a mere awkwardly combined plaything. . . . . In the morning I rode on to Segovia. . . . . The first thing I did was to present a letter from Count Guaiaqui to the bishop,—a very respectable old man, wh
Le Sage (search for this): chapter 10
the finest public walk I have ever seen within the walls of any city, not excepting either the Tuileries or the Chiaja. It begins at the gate of Atocha, and, passing the superb entrance of Alcala, extends round to the convent and gate of the Recoletos. Anciently it was an uneven meadow of little beauty, but famous for being the scene of the plots, murders, duels, and intrigues of the city and court, as may easily be gathered from the familiar use made of it in the novels of Cervantes and Le Sage, the plays of Lope, and indeed the old comedies and romances generally. It was not, however, until the middle of the last century, when the neighboring palace of Buen Retiro rose into favor, that Charles III. levelled it, planted it with trees, and made it the beautiful walk it now is. As you enter it from the gate of Alcala, or rather from the street next to it, you find yourself in a superb, wide opening called the Saloon; on your right hand a double walk, and on your left, first the pl
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