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[306] poor fellows behind gratings, who pointed to their mouths to show hunger. . . . The British gave up Tangier in 1684 after twenty-two years occupancy. (It came to them in 1662 as a part of the dowry of Catherine of Braganza who married Charles II.) They blew up a fine mole or pier they had built, and there are still great fragments of rock which look like persons praying or veiled women, so that the Arab women sometimes go and kneel to them, when the tide is low. . . . [The name of] one young Portuguese with whom I talked French . . . was Quillinan, nephew or grandnephew of the Quillinan who married Dora Wordsworth-so little is this world!

March 23, 1901

Last night we all went with our bright young Spanish guide ... to one of the coffee-house concerts. * . . Ernest led us down the little paved lane we call a street and upstairs into a room decked to the ceiling with all sorts of Moorish arms and pipes and ornaments, and among them two cheap American clocks, one of which had stopped. Before us was a pile of slippers which the Moors had dropped because the music is considered religious, though hilarious. All over the floor squatted turbaned men, in every variety of flowing raiment, the older usually wearing white turbans to show they were married and the younger having red, as bachelors. There were some thirty in all of whom ten were the band, thrumming various stringed instruments; others were smoking, often with a preparation of opium in a long, delicate pipe which


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