A notable discourse of M. John Chilton, touching the
people, maners, mines, cities, riches, forces, and other
memorable things of New Spaine, and other provinces
in the West Indies, seene and noted by himselfe in
the time of his travels, continued in those parts, the
space of seventeene or eighteene yeeres.
IN the yeere of our Lord 1561, in the moneth of July,
I John Chilton went out of this city of London
into
Spaine, where I remained for the space of seven yeres,
& from thence I sailed into Nova Hispania, and so
travelled there, and by the
South Sea, unto Peru
, the
space of seventeene or eighteene yeeres: and after that
time expired, I returned into Spaine, and so in the yere
1586 in the moneth of July, I arrived at the foresayd
city of London
: where perusing the notes which I had
taken in the time of my travell in those yeeres, I have
set downe as followeth.
In the yeere 1568, in the moneth of March, being
desirous to see the world, I embarked my selfe in the
bay of Cadiz
in
Andaluzia, in a shippe bound for the
Isles of the Canaries, where she tooke in her lading, &
set forth from thence for the voyage, in the moneth of
June, the same yere. Within a moneth after, we fell
with the
Isle of S. Domingo, and from thence directly
to Nova Hispania, and came into the port of S. John
de Ullua, which is a litle Island standing in the sea, about
two miles from the land, where the king mainteineth
about 50 souldiers, and captaines, that keepe the forts,
and about 150 negroes, who all the yeere long are occupied in carying of stones for building, & other uses, and
to helpe to make fast the ships that come in there, with
their cables. There are built two bulwarkes at ech ende
of a wall, that standeth likewise in the sayde Island,
where the shippes use to ride, made fast to the sayd
wall with their cables, so neere, that a man may leape
ashore. From this port I journeyed by land to a towne
called Vera Cruz, standing by a rivers side, where all
the factours of the Spanish merchants dwell, which receive
the goods of such ships as come thither, and also lade
the same with such treasure and merchandize as they
returne backe into Spaine. They are in number about
foure hundred, who onely remaine there, during the time
that the Spanish fleet dischargeth, and is loden againe,
which is from the end of August to the beginning of
April following. And then for the unwholesomnesse of
the place they depart thence sixteene leagues further up
within the countrey, to a towne called Xalapa, a very
healthfull soile. There is never any woman delivered of
childe in this port of Vera Cruz: for so soone as they
perceive themselves conceived with child, they get them
into the countrey, to avoid the perill of the infected aire,
although they use every morning to drive thorow the
towne above two thousand head of cattell, to take away
the ill vapours of the earth. From Xalapa seven leagues
I came to another place, named Perota, wherein are
certaine houses builded of straw, called by the name of
ventas, the inhabitants whereof are Spaniards, who
accustome to harbour such travellers as are occasioned
to journey that way up into the land. It standeth in a
great wood of Pine and Cedar trees, the soile being very
colde, by reason of store of snow which lieth on the
mountaines there all the yere long. There are in that
place an infinite number of deere, of bignesse like unto
great mules, having also homes of great length. From
Perota nine leagues, I came to the Fuentes of Ozumba,
which fuentes are springs of water issuing out of certeine
rocks into the midst of the high wayes, where likewise
are certaine ranges, and houses, for the uses before
mentioned. Eight leagues off from this place I came
to the city of the Angels, so called by that name of the
Spanyards, which inhabit there to the number of a
thousand, besides a great number of Indians. This city
standeth in very plaine fields, having neere adjoyning to
it many sumptuous cities, as namely the city of Tlaxcalla,
a city of two hundred thousand Indians, tributaries to
the king, although he exacteth no other tribute of them
then a handfull of wheat a piece, which amounteth to
thirteene thousand hanneges yeerely, as hath appeared
by the kings books of account. And the reason why he
contenteth himselfe with this tribute, onely for them, is,
because they were the occasion that he tooke the city
of Mexico, with whom the Tlaxcallians had warre at the
same time when the Spanyards came into the countrey.
The governour of this city is a Spanyard, called among
them The Alcalde mayor, who administreth chiefest causes
of justice both unto the Christians and Indians, referring
smaller and lighter vices, as drunkennesse and such like,
to the judgement and discretion of such of the Indians
as are chosen every yeere to rule amongst them, called
by the name of Alcaldes. These Indians from foureteene
yeeres olde upwards, pay unto the king for their yerely
tribute one ounce of silver, and an hannege of maiz,
which is valued among them commonly at twelve reals of
plate. The widowes among them pay halfe of this. The Indians both of this city, and of the rest, lying about
Mexico, goe clothed with mantles of linnen cloth made
of cotton wooll, painted thorowout with works of divers
and fine colours. It is distant from the city of the Angels
foure leagues to the Northward, & foureteene from
Mexico. There is another city a league from it, called
Chetula, consisting of more then sixty thousand Indians,
tributaries, and there dwell not above twelve Spanyards
there. From it, about two leagues, there is another,
called Acassingo, of above fifty thousand Indians, and
about eight or twelve Spanyards, which standeth at the
foot of the Vulcan of Mexico, on the East side. There
are besides these, three other great cities, the one named
Tepiaca, a very famous city, Waxazingo, and Tichamachalcho: all these in times past belonged to the kingdome
of Tlaxcalla: and from these cities they bring most of
their Cochinilla into Spaine. The distance from the city
of the Angels, to the city of Mexico is twenty leagues.
This city of Mexico is the city of greatest fame in all
the Indies, having goodly and costly houses in it, builded
all of lime and stone, and seven streets in length, and
seven in breadth, with rivers running thorow every second
street, by which they bring their provision in canoas.
It is situated at the foot of certaine hilles, which conteine
in compasse by estimation above twenty leagues, compassing the sayd city on the one side, and a lake which
is foureteene leagues about on the other side. Upon
which lake there are built many notable and sumptuous
cities, as the city of Tescuco, where the Spanyards built
sixe frigats, at that time when they conquered Mexico,
and where also Fernando Cortes made his abode five or
six moneths in curing of the sicknesse of his people,
which they had taken at their comming into the countrey.
There dwell in this city about sixty thousand Indians,
which pay tribute to the king. In this city the sayd
Fernando built the finest church that ever was built in
the Indies, the name whereof is S. Peters.
After I had continued two yeeres in this city, being
desirous to see further the countreys, I imployed that
which I had, and tooke my voyage towards the provinces
of California
, in the which was discovered a certeine
countrey, by a Biscaine, whose name was Diego de
Guiara, and called it after the name of his countrey,
New Biscay, where I solde my merchandise for exchange
of silver, for there were there certaine rich mines discovered by the aforesayd Biskaine. Going from Mexico
I directed my voyage somewhat toward the Southwest,
to certaine mines, called Tamascaltepec, and so travelled
forward the space of twenty dayes thorow desert places
unhabited, till I came to the valley of S. Bartholomew,
which joyneth to the province of New Biscay. In all
these places the Indians for the most part go naked, and
are wilde people. Their common armour is bowes and
arrowes: they use to eate up such Christians as they come
by. From hence departing, I came to another province
named Xalisco, and from thence to the port of Navidad,
which is 120 leagues from Mexico, in which port arrive
alwayes in the moneth of April, all the ships that come
out of the
South sea from China
, and the Philippinas,
and there they lay their merchandise ashore. The most
part whereof is mantles made of Cotton wooll, Waxe,
and fine platters gilded, made of earth, and much golde.
The next Summer following, being in the yeere 1570
(which was the first yeere that the Popes Buls were
brought into the Indies) I undertooke another voyage
towards the province of Sonsonate, which is in the kingdome of Guatimala, whither I caried divers merchandize
of Spaine, all by land on mules backs. The way thitherward from Mexico is to the city of the Angels, and from
thence to another city of Christians 80 leagues off, called
Guaxaca, in which there dwelt about 50 Spanyards, and
many Indians. All the Indians of this province pay their
tribute in mantles of Cotton wooll, and Cochinilla, whereof
there groweth abundance thorowout this countrey. Neere
to this place there lieth a port in the
South sea, called
Aguatulco, in the which there dwell not above three or
foure Spanyards, with certaine Negroes, which the king
mainteineth there: in which place Sir Francis Drake
arrived in the yeere 1579, in the moneth of April, where
I lost with his being there above a thousand duckets,
which he tooke away, with much other goods of other
merchants of Mexico from one Francisco Gomes Rangifa,
factour there for all the Spanish merchants that then
traded in the
South sea: for from this port they use to
imbarke all their goods that goe for Peru
, and to the
kingdome of Honduras
. From Guaxaca I came to a
towne named Nixapa, which standeth upon certaine very
high hilles in the province of Sapotecas, wherein inhabit
about the number of twenty Spanyards, by the King of
Spaines commandement, to keepe that country in peace:
for the Indians are very rebellious: and for this purpose
hee bestoweth on them the townes & cities that be within
that province. From hence I went to a city called
Tecoantepec, which is the farthest towne to the Eastward
in all Nova Hispania, which some time did belong to
the Marques de Valle, and because it is a very fit port,
standing in the
South sea, the king of Spaine, upon a
rebellion made by the sayd Marques against him, tooke
it from him, and doth now possesse it as his owne. Heere
in the yeere 1572 I saw a piece of ordinance of brasse,
called a Demy culverin, which came out of a ship called
the Jesus of Lubec, which captaine Hawkins left in S.
John de Ullua, being in fight with the Spanyards in the
yeere 1568; which piece they afterwards caried 100
leagues by land over mighty mountaines to the sayd city,
to be embarked there for the Philippinas. Leaving
Tecoantepec, I went still along by the
South sea about
150 leagues in the desolate province of Soconusco, in
which province there groweth cacao, which the Christians
cary from thence into Nova Hispania, for that it will
not grow in any colde countrey. The Indians of this
countrey pay the king their tribute in cacao, giving him
four hundred cargas, and every carga is 24000 almonds,
which carga is worth in Mexico thirty pieces of reals
of plate. They are men of great riches, and withall very
proud: and in all this province thorowout, there dwell
not twenty Christians. I travelled thorow another province called Suchetepec; and thence to the province of
Guasacapan : in both which provinces are very few people,
the biggest towne therein having not above two hundred
Indians. The chiefest merchandise there, is cacao.
Hence I went to the city of Guatimala, which is the
chiefe city of all this kingdome: in this city doe inhabit
about 80 Spanyards: and here the king hath his governours, & councell, to whom all the people of the kingdome
repaire for justice. This city standeth from the coast of
the
South sea 14 leagues within the land, and is very
rich, by reason of the golde that they fetch out of the
coast of Veragua. From this city to the Eastward 60
leagues lieth the province Sonsonate, where I solde the
merchandize I caried out of Nova Hispania. The chiefest
city of this province is called S. Salvador, which lieth 7
leagues from the coast of the
South sea, and hath a port
lying by the sea coast, called Acaxutla, where the ships
arrive with the merchandize they bring from Nova
Hispania; and from thence lade backe againe the cacao:
there dwell heere to the number of threescore Spanyards.
From Sonsonate I travelled to Nicoia, which is in the
kingdome of Nicaragua, in which port the king buildeth
all the shipping that travell out of the Indies to the
Malucos. I went forward from thence to Costa
rica,
where the Indians both men and women go all naked,
and the land lieth betweene Panama, and the kingdome
of Guatimala: and for that the Indians there live as
warriers, I durst not passe by land, so that here in a
towne called S. Salvador I bestowed that which I caried
in annile (which is a kinde of thing to die blew withall)
which I caried with me to the port of Cavallos, lying in
the kingdome of Honduras
, which port is a mighty huge
gulfe, and at the comming in on the one side of it there
lieth a towne of little force without ordinance or any
other strength, having in it houses of straw: at which
towne the Spanyards use yeerely in the moneth of August
to unlade foure ships which come out of Spaine laden
with rich merchandise, and receive in heere againe their
lading of a kinde of merchandise called Annile and
Cochinilla (although it be not of such value as that of
Nova Hispania), and silver of the mines of Tomaangua,
and golde of Nicaragua, and hides, and Salsa perilla, the
best in all the Indies: all which merchandize they returne,
and depart from thence alwayes in the moneth of April
following, taking their course by the
Island of Jamaica,
in which Island there dwell on the West side of it certeine
Spanyards of no great number. From this place they go
to the cape of S. Anthony, which is the uttermost part
of the Westward of the
Island of Cuba, and from thence
to Havana
lying hard by, which is the chiefest port that
the king of Spaine hath in all the countreys of the Indies,
and of greatest importance: for all the ships, both from
Peru
, Hunduras, Porto
rico, S. Domingo, Jamaica
, and
all other places in his Indies, arrive there in their returne
to Spaine, for that in this port they take in victuals and
water, and the most part of their lading : here they meet
from all the foresayd places alwayes in the beginning of
May by the kings commandement: at the entrance of this
port it is so narrow, that there can scarse come in two
ships together, although it be above sixe fadome deepe
in the narrowest place of it. In the North side of the
comming in there standeth a tower, in which there
watcheth every day a man to descrie the sailes of ships
which hee can see on the sea; and as many as he discovereth, so many banners he setteth upon the tower, that
the people of the towne (which standeth within the port
about a mile from the tower) may understand thereof.
Under this tower there lieth a sandy shore, where men
may easily go aland; and by the tower there runneth a
hill along by the waters side, which easily with small store
of ordinance subdueth the towne and port. The port
within is so large that there may easily ride a thousand
saile of ships without anker or cable, for no winde is able
to hurt them. There inhabit within the towne of Havana
about three hundred Spanyards, and about threescore
souldiers, which the king mainteineth there for the keeping
of a certeine castle which hee hath of late erected, which
hath planted in it about twelve pieces of small ordinance,
and is compassed round with a small ditch, wherethorow
at their pleasure they may let in the sea. About two
leagues from Havana
there lieth another towne called
Wanabacoa, in which there is dwelling about an hundred
Indians, and from this place 60 leagues there lieth another
towne named Bahama, situate on the North side of the
Island. The chiefest city of this
Island of Cuba (which is
above 200 leagues in length) is also called Sant Iago de
Cuba, where dwelleth a bishop & about two hundred
Spanyards; which towne standeth on the South side of
the Island about 100 leagues from Havana
. All the
trade of this Island is cattell, which they kill onely for the
hides that are brought thence into Spaine: for which end
the Spanyards mainteine there many negroes to kil their
cattell, and foster a great number of hogs, which being
killed, and cut into small pieces, they dry in the Sun,
and so make it provision for the ships which come for
Spaine.
Having remained in this Island two moneths, I tooke
shipping in a frigat, and went over to Nombre de Dios,
and from thence by land to Panama, which standeth upon
the
South sea. From Nombre de Dios to Panama is 17
leagues distance: from which towne there runneth a river
which is called the river of Chagre, which runneth within
5 leagues of Panama, to a place called Cruzes, thorow
which river they cary their goods, and disimbarke them
at the sayd Cruzes, and from thence they are conveyed
on mules backs to Panama by land; where they againe
imbarke them in certeine small ships in the
South sea
for all the coast of Peru
. In one of these ships I went
to Potossi, and from thence by land to Cusco
, and from
thence to Paita.
Here I remained the space of seven moneths, and then
returned into the kingdome of Guatimala, and arrived in
the province of Nicoia, and Nicaragua. From Nicaragua
I travelled by land to a province called Nicamula (which
lieth toward the North sea
in certaine high mountaines)
for that I could not passe thorow the kingdome of
Guatimala at that time for waters, wherewith all the Low
countreys of the province of Soconusco, lying by the
South
sea, are drowned with the raine that falleth above in the
mountaines, enduring alwayes from April to September:
which season for that cause they call their Winter. From
this province I came into another called De Vera Paz, in
which the chiefest city is also called after that name,
where there dwelleth a bishop and about forty Spanyards.
Among the mountaines of this countrey toward the
North
sea, there is a province called La Candona, where are
Indian men of war which the king can not subdue, for
that they have townes and forts in a great lake of water
above in the sayd mountaines : the most part of them goe
naked, and some weare mantles of cotton wooll. Distant
from this about 80 leagues, I came into another province
called the province of Chiapa, wherein the chiefest city
is called Sacatlan, where there dwelleth a bishop and
about an hundred Spanyards. In this countrey there is
great store of Cotten wooll, whereof the Indians make
fine linnen cloth, which the Christians buy and cary into
Nova Hispania. The people of this province pay their
tribute to the king all in Cotton wooll and Feathers.
Foureteene leagues from this city there is another called
Chiapa, where are the finest gennets in all the Indies,
which are caried hence to Mexico, 300 leagues from it.
From this city I travelled still thorow hilles and mountaines, till I came to the end of this province, to a hill
called Ecatepec, which in
English signifieth The hill of
winde: for that they say, it is the highest hill that ever
was discovered: for from the top of it may be discovered
both the North and the South seas; and it is in height
supposed to be nine leagues. They which travell over
it, lie alwayes at the foot of it over night, and begin their
journey about midnight, to travell to the top of it before
the Sunne rise the next day, because the winde bloweth
with such force afterwards, that it is impossible for any
man to goe up: from the foot of this hill to Tecoantepec,
the first towne of Nova Hispania, are about fifteene
leagues. And so from hence I journeyed to Mexico.
By and by after I came to Mexico (which was in the
yere 1572) in the company of another Spanyard, which
was my companion in this journey, we went together
toward the province of Panuco, which lieth upon the coast
of the North sea
, and within three dayes journey we
entred a city called Mestitlan, where there dwelt twelve
Spanyards: the Indian inhabitants there were about thirty
thousand. This city standeth upon certaine hie mountaines, which are very thicke planted with townes very
holesome and fruitfull, having plentifull fountaines of
water running thorow them. The high wayes of these
hilles are all set with fruits, and trees of divers kindes,
and most pleasant. In every towne as we passed thorow,
the Indians presented us with victuals. Within twenty
leagues of this place there is another city called Clanchinoltepec, belonging to a gentleman, where there inhabit
about fourty thousand Indians; and there are among them
eight or nine friers of the Order of Saint Augustine,
who have there a Monastery. Within three dayes after
we departed from this place, and came to a city called
Guaxutla, where there is another Monastery of friers of
the same Order: there dwell in this towne about twelve
Spanyards. From this place forwards beginneth a province called Guastecan, which is all plaine grounds without
any hilles. The first towne we came unto is called Tancuylabo, in which there dwell many Indians, high of
stature, having all their bodies painted with blew, and
weare their haire long downe to their knees, tied as
women use to doe with their haire-laces. When they
goe out of their doores, they cary with them their bowes
and arrowes, being very great archers, going for the
most part naked. In those countreys they take neither
golde nor silver for exchange of any thing, but onely Salt,
which they greatly esteeme, and use it for a principall
medicine for certaine wormes which breed in their lips
and in their gummes. After nine dayes travell from this
place, we came to a towne called Tampice, which is a
port towne upon the sea, wherein there dwell, I thinke,
forty Christians, of which number whilest wee abode there,
the Indians killed foureteene, as they were gathering of
Salt, which is all the trade that they have in this place:
it standeth upon the entrie of the river of Panuco, which
is a mighty great river; and were it not for a sand that
lieth at the mouth of it, ships of five hundred tunne might
goe up into it above three score leagues. From hence
we went to Panuco, foureteene leagues from Tampice,
which in times past had bene a goodly city, where the
king of Spaine had his governour: but by reason that the
Indians there destroyed the Christians, it lieth in a maner
waste, conteining in it not above tenne Christians with
a priest. In this towne I fell sicke, where I lay one and
forty dayes, having no other sustenance then fruit and
water, which water I sent for above sixe leagues off within
the countrey. Here I remained till my companion came to
me, which had departed from me another way, reteining
in my company onely a slave, which I brought with me
from Mexico. And the last day in Easter weeke my
companion came to me, finding me in a very weake
state, by reason of the unholesomenesse of the place.
Notwithstanding my weakenesse, I being set on an horse,
and an Indian behinde mee to holde mee, wee went
forward on our voyage all that day till night. The next
day in the morning we passed over the river in a canoa;
and being on the other side, I went my selfe before alone:
and by reason there met many wayes traled by the wilde
beasts, I lost my way, and so travelled thorow a great
wood about two leagues: and at length fell into the hands
of certaine wilde Indians, which were there in certaine
cottages made of straw; who seeing me, came out to the
number of twenty of them, with their bowes and arrowes,
and spake unto mee in their language, which I understood
not: and so I made signes unto them to helpe mee from
my horse; which they did by commandement of their lord,
which was there with them; and lighted downe. They
caried me under one of their cottages, and layed me upon
a mat on the ground: and perceiving that I could not
understand them, they brought unto mee a little Indian
wench of Mexico, of fifteene or sixteene yeeres of age,
whom they commanded to aske me in her language from
whence I came, and for what intent I was come among
them: for (sayth she) doest thou not know Christian, how
that these people will kill and eat thee? To whom I
answered, let them doe with me what they will; heere now
I am. Shee replied, saying, thou mayest thanke God thou
art leane; for they feare thou hast the pocks; otherwise
they would eate thee. So I presented to the king a little
wine which I had with me in a bottle; which he esteemed
above any treasure: for for wine they will sell their wives
and children. Afterwards the wench asked me what I
would have, and whether I would eat any thing. I
answered that I desired a little water to drinke, for that
the countrey is very hote: and shee brought me a great
Venice
glasse, gilded, full of water. And marvelling at
the glasse, I demanded how they came by it. She tolde
me that the Casique brought it from Shallapa, a great
towne distant 30 leagues from this place on the hilles,
whereas dwelt certeine Christians, and certeine friers of
the Order of S. Augustine, which this Casique with his
people on a night slew; and burning the friers monasterie,
among other things reserved this glasse: and from thence
also brought me. Having now bene conversant with
them about three or foure houres, they bid her aske me
if I would goe my way. I answered her, that I desired
nothing els. So the Casique caused two of his Indians
to leade me forward in my way; going before me with
their bowes and arrowes, naked, the space of three
leagues, till they brought me into an high way: and
then making a signe unto me, they signified that in short
time I should come to a towne where Christians inhabited,
which was called S. Iago de los valles, standing in plaine
fields, walled about with a mud wall: the number of
the Christians that dwelt therein, were not above foure or
five and twenty, unto which the king of Spaine giveth
Indians and townes, to keepe the countreys subject unto
him. Heere the Christians have their mighty mules,
which they cary for all the parts of the Indies, and into
Peru
, for that all their merchandize are caried by this
meanes by land. In this towne aforesayd, I found my
company, which I had lost before, who made no other
account of me but that I had beene slaine: and the Christians there likewise marvelled to heare that I came from
those kinde of Indians alive, which was a thing never
seene nor heard of before: for they take a great pride
in killing a Christian, and to weare any part of him where
he hath any haire growing, hanging it about their necks,
and so are accounted for valiant men. In this towne I
remained eighteene dayes, till I recovered my health, and
in the meane space there came one Don Francisco de
Pago, whom the viceroy Don Henrico Manriques had sent
for captaine generall, to open and discover a certeine way
from the sea side to the mines of Sacatecas, which were
from this place 160 leagues, for to transport their merchandize by that way, leaving the way by Mexico, which
is seven or eight weeks travell. So this captaine tooke
me and my company, with the rest of his souldiers, to the
number of forty, which he had brought with him, and five
hundred Indians, which we tooke out of two towns in
this province called Tanchipa, and Tamaclipa, all good
archers, and naked men, and went thence to the river
de las Palmas, which is of great bignesse, parting the
kingdome of Nova Hispania and Florida
: and going
still along by this river the space of three dayes, seeking
passage to passe over; and finding none, we were at
length inforced to cut timber to make a balsa or raft,
which when we had made, we sate on it, the Indians
swimming in the water, and thrusting it before them to
the other side. Within thirty dayes after, travelling
thorow woods, hilles, and mountaines, we came to the
mines of Sacatecas, which are the richest mines in all
the Indies, and from thence they fetch most silver: at
which mines there dwelt above three hundred Christians:
and there our captaine gave us leave to depart. So we
came to the valley of S. Michael toward Mexico; and
from thence to Pueblo
novo; and from that place to the
province of Mechuacan, after which name the chiefest city
of that place is called: where there dwelles a bishop, and
above an hundred Spanyards in it: it aboundeth with all
kind of Spanish fruits, and hath woods full of nut trees,
and wild vines. Heere are many mines of copper, and
great store of cattell. It lieth 60. leagues from Mexico,
whither we came within foure dayes after. The Indians
of this countrey are very mighty and big men.
Afterwards I returned another way to the province of
Sonsonate by Vera cruz, and so to
Rio Alvarado, and from
thence to the province of Campeche
, which lieth on the
South side of the bay of Mexico: the chiefe towne of this
province is called Merida
, in which is a bishop and almost
100 Spanyards. The Indians of this province pay all their
tribute in mantles of cotton wooll and cacao. There is
no port in all this province for a ship of 100 tun to ride in,
but onely in the river of Tabasco, by which river this city
of Merida
standeth. The chiefest merchandize which they
lade there in small frigats, is a certeine wood called
campeche, (wherewith they use to die) as also hides and
annile. By this there lieth the province of Iucatan, nere
the Honduras
by the North sea
coast, where there is also
another bishop, and a towne likewise named Iucatan,
where there dwell a few Spanyards. They have no force
at all in all this coast to defend themselves withall, save
only that the land is low, and there is no port to receive
any shipping, unlesse they be frigats, which cary from
thence to the port of S. John de Ullua, waxe, cacao, hony,
and also mantles of cotton wool, whereof they make there
great store, and of which kind of merchandize there is
great trade thence to Mexico: of the same also they pay
their tribute to the king.
The king hath tribute brought him yerely out of the
Indies into Spaine betweene nine and ten millions of
gold and silver: for he receiveth of every Indian which
is subject unto him (excepting those which do belong
to the Incommenderos, which are the children of those
Spanyards, who first conquered the land, to whom the
king gave and granted the government of the cities and
townes subdued for three lives) twelve reals of plate, and
a hannege of maiz, which is a wheat of the countrey, (five
of them making a quarter of English measure) and of
every widow woman he hath sixe reals, & halfe a hannege
of maiz. And so if any Indian have twenty children in
his house, he payeth for every one of them, being above
fifteene yeres old, after that rate. This Wheat being
duely brought to the governour of every province and
city, is sold in Mexico by the kings governours there
every yeere; so that the money received for it, is put into
the kings Treasurie there, and so is yeerely caried from
thence into Spaine. Of the Spanyards which are owners
of the mines of gold and silver, he receiveth the fift part
of it, which he calleth his quintas, which being taken out
of the heape, there is his armes set on it; for otherwise
it may not be brought out of the land into Spaine,
under paine of death. The marke of silver, which is eight
ounces, when it commeth out of the mines, not having
the kings seale upon it, is woorth three and forty reals of
plate, and so it is current: and when they will bring it for
Spaine, they cary it to the kings Treasure house, where
his scale is set upon it; and so it is raised in value
thereby to threescore and foure reals of plate: and so the
king hath for his custome of every marke of plate one and
twentie reals.
From the yere of 1570, which was the yeere that the
Popes buls came into the Indies, as is afore mentioned
he hath received both of the Indians which are tributaries
unto him, and also of all others belonging to the Incommenderos, of every one being above twelve yeeres of age,
foure reals of every bull. Also they cary other pardons
with them into the Indies, for such as be dead, although
an hundred yeres before the Spanyards came into the
countrey: which pardons the friers in their preachings
perswaded the poore Indians to take, telling them that
with giving foure reals of plate for a Masse, they would
deliver their soules out of purgatory. Of the Christians
likewise dwelling there he hath foureteene reals for every
bull: and there be certeine buls brought thither for the
Christians besides the former, which serve for pardoning
all such faults wherein they have trespassed either against
the king, by keeping backe his customes, or one against
another by any other injury; for every hundred crownes
whereof a mans conscience doth accuse him that he hath
deceived the king or any other, he must give ten for a
bull, and so after that rate for every hundred which he
hath any way stollen, and so is pardoned the fault. The
revenue of his buls after this maner yeeldeth unto his
treasury yeerely above three millions of gold, as I have
bene credibly informed, although of late both the Spanyards and Indians do refuse to take the buls; for that they
perceive he doth make a yeerely custome of it: onely
ech Indian taketh one pardon for all his householde,
(whereas in former time every Indian used to take one
for every person in his house) and teareth the same into
small pieces, and giveth to every one of his householde
a little piece, saying thus, they need now no more, seeing
in that which they bought the yeere before they had
above ten thousand yeres pardon. These pieces they
sticke up in the wall of the houses where they lie. Both
the Christians & Indians are weary with these infinite
taxes and customes, which of late he hath imposed upon
them, more then in the yeeres before: so as the people
of both sorts did rebell twise in the time that I was among
them, and would have set up another king of themselves;
for which cause the king hath commanded upon paine of
death, that they should not plant either wine or oile there,
but should alwayes stand in need of them to be brought
out of Spaine, although there would more grow there in
foure yeeres, then there groweth in
Spaine in twenty, it
is so fertile a countrey.
And the king to keepe the countrey alwayes in sub
jection, and to his owne use, hath streightly provided by
lawe, upon paine of death, and losse of goods, that none
of these countreys should traffique with any other nation,
although the people themselves doe much now desire to
trade with any other then with them, and would undoubtedly doe, if they feared not the perill ensuing
thereupon.
About Mexico, and other places in Nova Hispania,
there groweth a certeine plant called magueis, which
yeeldeth wine, vinegar, hony, and blacke sugar, and of
the leaves of it dried they make hempe, ropes, shooes
which they use, and tiles for their houses: and at the ende
of every leafe there groweth a sharpe point like an awle,
wherewith they use to bore or pearce thorow any
thing.
Thus to make an end, I have heere set downe the
summe of all the chiefest things that I have observed and
noted in my seventeene yeres travell in those parts.
