The third voyage set forth by sir Walter Ralegh to
Guiana
, with a pinnesse called The Watte, in the yeere
1596. Written by M. Thomas Masham a gentleman
of the companie.
UPON Thursday the 14. of October 1596. we set saile
from Limehouse
upon the river of Thames
, and through
much contrarietie of winds and other accidents, we made
it the 27. of December, before we could get out of Waimouth. The 25. of Januarie in the morning we came to
the North side of the
Island of Grand Canaria, where we
hoped to have gotten a boate to serve us upon the coast
of Guiana
, but the winde was so great, that we could not
lanch our shalope: so we past along by the roade and
the towne, and at length saw a boate lying on shoare,
which being too bigge for us, wee ripped up, and wooded
our selves with her. That day wee descryed a saile,
which at length wee found to be a flieboate of Dartmouth
,
of 200. tunnes, bound to the
Island of Mayo for salte.
Wee fell in consort with her, and that night stoode for
the Southermost part of the Island there to water, where
wee stayed all the next day, and watered at the Southsouthwest part thereof. That night wee weyed and
stoode away together Southsoutheast, and South and by
East, purposing by their perswasion to goe for the river
Doro
. The 28. of Januarie wee made the furthermost
part of Barbarie; and this morning we met with M.
Benjamin Wood with his fleete of 3 sailes bound for the
straights of Magellan & China
, to wit, The Beare, The
Whelpe, and The Benjamin: who told us that there was
no good to be done in the river Doro
. Whereupon we
stood along with them for
Cape Blanco, unto which we
came upon Sunday night next following. And upon Munday morning the first of Februarie, we saw two ships in
a sandie bay: so wee stirred in with them, which were
Frenchmen bound for the West Indies, and put all into
the bay, where wee refreshed our selves with fish, in
which there was infinite store, and stayed there untill
Thursday the 5. at which time wee stood up with the
Cape againe, where rode the Frenchman and his pinnesse,
who put foorth right afore us, and another Frenchman
and his caravel well manned: So all we 5. English came
to an anker by them, where after kinde greeting with
many shots out of every ship both English and French,
all our captaines were invited to a feast aboord the French
admirall: where after great cheere and kinde entertainment, it was concluded on all handes to take the
Isle of
Fogo, if God would give us leave.
The same day we all weyed and stoode along for the
Isle of Sal, unto which we came the 8. of Februarie, and
ankered altogether at a bay in the West part thereof:
in which Island wee had good store of goates and fresh
fish. There is no man dwelling upon the Island that we
could see. Wee could finde no fresh water upon it, but
one standing puddle of bad water: it hath foure great
mountaines upon the 4. corners of it. Here the Frenchmen (as it seemeth being overcome with drinke, having
bene aboord our Generall at a feast) being on shoare, one
of the gentlemen of their companie was slaine, and their
chiefe captaine sorely wounded: by reason whereof, and
of the setting together of a pinnesse which they were
about, the French admiral and the caravel stayed behind.
So wee in the Watte, and the other 6. ships weyed the
10. of Februarie, and stood away for the isle of Maio
.
This night the other two French shippes that came from
Sal with us (as it seemeth of purpose, because their consorts were not with them) lost us. The next morning
wee sawe Maio
. So wee and the flieboate of Dartmouth
compassed the Northermost part of the Island, and master
Benjamin Wood in the China-fleete, the Southermost, and
came all to an anker together at the Southwest part
thereof: where rode sixe sayles of Flemmings lading
salte; who had brought their horses and cartes, and
wheele-barrowes, and plankes for their barrowes to runne
upon. Here is abundance of salte in this Island made
by Gods hande without mans labour. These tolde us that
there were thirtie sayles more, which fell to leeward of
Fogo, who, as I heard since, beat it up with much adoe,
& came thither also for salte. This trade may bee very
beneficiall to England
, considering the dearnesse of salte.
Of goates on this Island there is such store, as is incredible, but to those that have seene them: and it is a
wonder howe they live one by the other, the ground being
stonie and barren. It is thought that there are dwelling
in it some twentie Mountainiers, which got one of the
Flemmings men stragling, and God knoweth what they
did with him: for they sawe him no more. This Island
is somewhat lowe and round, having no great mountaines
upon it.
Here ended our determination concerning the invading
of Fogo
. And here wee left the flieboat of Dartmouth
lading salte, and the China-fleete to refresh themselves
with goates, who as I have heard since had at the village
(from whence the Mountainiers were fledde into the
furthest partes of the Island and rocks) great store of
dryed goates which they carried along with them: which
were like to bee a great helpe unto them in their long
voyage. So upon Saturday the 12 of Februarie at night
wee set saile and stood for the coast of Wiana, which
wee were bound for.
Upon Sunday the twentieth of Februarie wee came into
the maine current that setteth from the
Cape of Buena
Esperanza along the coast of Brasil
, and so toward the
West Indies, for the most part setting away Northwest.
The Tuesday night following, whereas before our course
was Westsouthwest, wee stoode away West and by
South: by reason whereof, and of the current that set
us to the Northward, wee were the next day by noone
twentie minutes further to the Northward then the day
before. So that then wee lay away Southwest, because
wee were loath to fall to the Northward of our place
intended: which if wee should bee put to leeward of,
there was small hope left to recover it.
By Thursday wee were within one degree 1/2 of the Equinoctiall line: therefore this day wee hailed away West
and by South, and West among. This night wee
sounded, but had no ground at 90 fathoms.
The next day in the morning the colour of the water
began to change, and to bee more white, so wee made
another sound and had ground at thirtie fathoms, but
saw no lande, and in the afternoone wee halled away
Westnorthwest, Northwest, and Northnorthwest. In the
night wee sounded divers times, and had twelve, ten, and
nine fathoms water.
All Saturday wee had a thick red water, and had seven
and eight fathoms both day and night, and upon Sunday
morning by day being the seven and twentieth of
Februarie, wee made the lande which appeared lowe, and
trended neerest as wee fell with it, South and by East,
North and by West about two degrees 1/2 toward the
North. Right on head of us was a Cape or head land,
so that had wee beene shot a little further into the bay,
the winde being more Northerly, wee should hardly have
doubled it off. For with much adoe making many boords,
and stopping every tyde, it was the Tuesday following
before wee cleered our selves of the bay, and recovered
the Cape. Nowe the land trended Northwest and by
North, and Southeast and by South. And still wee were
faine to anker every tyde sometimes in foure fathoms,
and sometimes in three, as farre as wee could see land.
So about night wee sawe
Cape Cecill: and after some
two houres came to an anker. Betweene these two Capes
the lande lyeth lowe and even.
Upon Wednesday morning, having the winde large at
Eastnortheast, wee layd it away upon a board into the
bay of Wiapoucou and came to an anker in the rivers
mouth in two fathoms: over the barre there is little water,
as 6 and 7 foote, and lesse in many places. And this
river of Wiapoucou standeth almost in 4 degrees to the
Northward of the line.
The next morning wee weyed, and standing in with
our pinnesse by night, wee got some eight leagues up
the river. This day sometimes wee had but 5 foote water
and drew 7 foot, but being soft oaze we went cleere:
and a little before wee came to anker, wee were on ground
upon a rocke, but with some trouble and labour wee got
off and had no hurt.
Upon Friday the 4 of March towards night wee came
to the falles. The next day M. Leonard Berrie our captaine, the Master, my selfe and some 5 more, went
through the woods, and spent all the day in searching
the head of the falles, but could not finde it: for though
wee passed by many, yet were there more still one above
the other. So that finding no Indians in this river to
buy victuals of, neither any kind of thing that might
intice us to come to so short allowance, as wee must
have done, if wee had spent any long time here, finding
it over hard to passe the falles, wee fell downe the river
againe, and by Friday the 11 of March wee cleered our
selves of the river and bay. This river from the mouth
to the falles is some 16 leagues, in many places a mile
over, but for the most part halfe a mile. There are many
Islands in it: as are also in most of the rivers upon the
coast. This night wee ankered against Cawo in two
fathoms; whereinto wee thought to have put with our
pinnesse: but found the water so shoald, and the sea so
growen, that neither with our shippe nor shallope wee
durst goe in.
On Saturday by noone wee came to anker under one
of the 7 Islands: upon which going on shoare wee found
neither man nor beast, but great store of yellow plumbes
which are good to eate.
Upon Sunday after dinner our Master William Dowle
and 6 more went off with our boat to a towne called
Aramatto; where they found many inhabitants, and
brought victuals and some Tabacco with them, and one
Indian named Caprima, who lying aboord all night, the
next day being Munday the 14 of March went with our
Captaine into Wias, and there traded with the Caribes
for such things as they had. And afterward they of Aramatto came off with their canoas to us, and wee went
on shoare to them: and from thence our Captaine sent
a canoa with seven men, which had every one of them a
knife to goe backe to the river of Cawo, and to tell Ritimo
captaine of that place, that because wee coulde not come
to him, wee would stay at
Chiana for him, whither wee
intreated him to come to us. So upon Thursday the 17
wee stoode in for Chiana, and came to an anker without
in the bay in 3 fathoms that night: and had the Caribes
comming continually to us with their canoas, which
brought us great store of victuals and some Tabacco,
shewing themselves very kinde and loving, and came all
from their townes, and dwelt on shoare by us untill Ritimo
came: at whose comming they returned all up to their
townes againe, which was upon the Sunday following.
All this day we feasted him and his traine, and the next
day we traffiqued with them for such things as they
brought, which was principally tabacco.
After that they had made knowen their mindes of the
desire that they had to have the English come and kill
the Spaniards, and to dwell in
Orenoque and in the
countrey, they departed with their 3 canoas the next day.
And wee with the helpe of the Caribes of Chiana, having
by their meanes from the shoare watered, because the
rivers mouth was salte, departed out of the bay the
Thursday following, & passing by Macerea, Couroura,
and Manamanora, by reason of shoalds, rockes, and great
windes, beeing a lee shoare; and for want of a good
shalope, wee came to an anker the next day being good
Friday in five fathoms neere The Triangle Islands called
The Careres. And upon Saturday standing to the Westward, wee stopped against the towne of Maware, which
is a little to the Westward of the towne Comanamo:
from whence and from the other townes in that bay, which
are some 6 or 7, wee had canoas come off to us as before
with such things as they had themselves in use, with
parrots, monkeys, and cotton-wooll, and flaxe. From
whence wee departed upon Munday following the 28 of
March 1597.
And passing by the rivers of Euracco and Amano, which
openeth but a small river, and is shoald off, wee came to
Marawinne the next day: And finding a chanell of three,
foure, and five fathoms, wee stood into the river: and
the same day came to an anker some 2 leagues in against
the mouth of Cooshepwinne, which river goeth into
Amana. Into which, (understanding that there were
Arwaccawes dwelling) this night we sent our boat and
came to a towne called Marrac one league in: And finding
the people something pleasant, having drunke much that
day, being as it seemed a festivall day with them, yet
were they very fearefull and ready to run away at the
first sight of us, having seldome seene any Christian
before. But assoone as Henry our Indian interpreter had
tolde them what wee were, and our intent, they came to
us and used us kindely, and brought us victuals and other
things. And the next day their captaine Mawewiron
came out into Marawinne, with divers canoas, & traded
with us, and wee went in againe to them on shore, who
made very much of us, and carried us from house to
house, and made us eate and drinke in every house which
wee came in. And the next day following being the last
of March, having the captaine of Marrack with us, wee
weyed and stoode into the river, and about two of the
clocke in the afternoone came to an anker some eight
leagues within the river, a little short of a towne called
Quiparia, the people whereof are Caribes: who, when they
sawe us come toward their towne with our boate, began
all to runne into the woods, untill the captaine of Marrac
which was with us in the boate, leaped overboord and
swamme on shoare unto them, and told them that wee
were Englishmen, and came in friendship to trade with
them.
Upon whose report they came before night sixe or
seven canoas aboord us, yet very fearefull, because there
was never either shippe or Christian scene in that river
before. The first of Aprill, wee weighed againe, and
stood in to the next towne called Macirria: where comming to anker, there came a canoa from Amano to us,
with great store of victuals, which canoa wee bought:
and because wee mette with some sholds, we were loath
to goe any farther with our Pinnesse : so there wee mored
her, and the next day at three of the clocke in the afternoone, eleven of us (Master Monax having the government of the action, by the Captaines appointment) with
Mawerirou, Henry, and William of Cawo, in the canoa
which we bought, went into the river farther to search
it so farre as wee could, and that night gatte some five
leagues from our shippe. And betweene two villages,
Awodwaier and Mapeributto, we tooke up our lodging
in the woods. The third of Aprill, betimes in the morning, we tooke our course still unto the river, and in the
afternoone came to one house where wee found many
Indians, where wee hired another canoa and foure Indians,
into the which I went, and one more of our men, and
this night gat twelve leagues farther, and as before,
lodged among the wilde beastes.
On Munday the fourth of Aprill, wee came to the falles
of this river about two in the afternoone: and having
shotte up some of the rockes, wee went on shore upon
an island, and there conferred of our farther proceeding.
And inquiring of the Indians that wee hired for our Pilots
of the last house, whether the falles were passable or not:
their first answere was, that they had nothing to eate:
but wee being loath to loose so much labour, and the
sight of that upper rich countrey, which wee desired, told
them that they should have victuals of us (though God
knoweth wee had none for our selves) who seeing us so
importunate, sayde farther, that the rockes would kill the
canoas: which they sayde because indeed they had no
victuals: which by some was taken for sufficient to proceede no farther, and so wee left off, and onely stayed
some two houres upon the Island, and with the swiftnesse
of the current, fell that night downe 10 leagues againe.
Though I for mine owne part offered in that small canoa
that I was in, being so leake, that my selfe did nothing
but lave out the water, to lead them the way, and if they
sawe any danger to mee, they might chuse whether they
would come into it or not themselves.
For seeing the countrey above was rich as wee were
informed, that their bowes were handled with golde,
(being men of an extraordinarie stature for talnes) wee
should have taken the more paines, and have fared the
harder, untill wee had gotten up in the countrey which
wee sawe with our eyes: for though wee had not victuals
in any sort to cary us up, yet the woods doe yeld fruites
and the palmito trees afforde meate, whereby wee might
have made shift to live, untill wee had come to the inhabitants, by whome we might both bee refreshed with
victuals, and also have reaped that, which might have
done us good as long as wee had lived.
But to returne to the rest of our voyage: the day after
wee went from the falles wee came to our shippe, which
was the fifth of Aprill 1597. On Wednesday wee fell
with our Pinnesse to Quiparia againe: where we brought
her on ground right before the town, and trimmed her
with the pitch of the countrey: and untill wee had done,
kept a corps du guard, night and day on shore, which
was upon Saturday following the ninth of Aprill. All the
while we were there we had an house of the Caribes,
and were kindely used of them, and had victuals, and
every thing we needed of them.
And so taking our leave on Tuesday being the twelfth
of Aprill, wee came to the mouth of Cussewinne, where
the Arwaccas of Marrac and of the river had provided
and brought to us such infinite store of potatoes, and
Guiney-wheate, that the stewarde sayd wee had no stowage for them; and so they were turned backe, and wee
by that meanes came to shorter allowance home ward
bound, then (if there had bene any good care) wee needed
to have done.
On Fryday the fifteeneth of Aprill, wee put foorth of
Marawinne, which is some foure leagues over, and within
one league and an halfe for the most part broad; full of
islands, and divers small rivers running into it: and it
is betweene forty and fifty leagues, from the mouth to
the falles, and lyeth for the most part South Southwest
up, altering some 3 poynts, being almost streight. And
standing along to the Westward, this night we tryed with
our mayne coarse and bonnet. On Saturday night we
came to an anker, in three fathomes against Sewramo.
On Sunday morning we thought to have gone into Cuppanamo: but sending off our boat & finding uncertaine
sounding, sometimes 3 fathomes and presently 9 foote,
we stood along to Coritine, and came into it upon the
Munday being the 18 of Aprill: and the next night wee
came to anker against Warrawalle in 10 fathoms. On
Wednesday the Indians of the towne having hunted a
Doe, shee tooke soyle & came neer our ship, and putting
off with our boat we tooke her, being like unto our deere
in England
, not altogether so fat, but very good flesh
and great bodied. In this river we met a Barke called
the John of London captaine Leigh
being in her. And
being both fallen downe within some five leagues of the
mouth of the river, upon intelligence that one Marracon,
(whom wee brought along with us) gave us, namely that
the river Desekebe, in which he dwelt (and wherein there
were some three hundred Spaniards, which for the most
part now are destroyed and dead) doeth lead so farre into
the countrey, that it commeth within a dayes journey of
the lake called Perima, whereupon Manoa is supposed to
stand; and that this river of Coritine doeth meete with
Desekebe up in the land: by meanes whereof wee make
account to goe up into the countrey, and to have discovered a passage unto that rich citie. So having concluded both shippes, we stood up into the river againe,
and comming to Warawalle the 24 of Aprill there our
shippes roade untill we went up to Mawranamo to speake
with Marracon, to know the trueth of these things: whom
when we had found, he verified al that before he had
spoken: Master Monax being the man that of Leonard
of Cawe tooke all the intelligence: who being brought
up with Antonie Berreo could speak some Spanish and
Marracons language also. And besides wee our selves
by signes, and drawing the two rivers on the ground,
and the meeting of them aloft, did perceive as much.
Now comming downe with our boates the sixe and
twentieth of Aprill we went up with our ships to Mawranama, where wee morred them, and taking some twentie
out of both, upon Thursday the eight and twentieth in
the afternoone with two shallops and two Canoas, in one
of which Henry the Indian was and some twentie Indians
more, wee went up the river; and by night getting some
three leagues farther wee lodged in the woods, and the
next morning wee with our boate and the two Canoas
went into a small river called Tapuere, to a towne called
Macharibi, thinking to have had Casavi and other victuals, which they were altogether unprovided of, by
reason that they make no more ready then serveth themselves from hand to mouth, living in this towne for the
most part by fish. By meanes of going into this river,
though wee rowed very hard it was noone before wee
overtooke the bigger shallop wherein both the Captaines
were. This night we came to a towne called Vaperon,
where wee stayed all Saturday and the night following,
for Casavi: whereof they baked good store for us being
but a fewe left in the towne. For not a moneth before
wee came thither, the Waccawaes that dwell above the
falles came downe to the towne, and slewe some tenne
of them, and many of the rest fled away, so that wee
found most of the houses emptie. Upon Sunday morning
being May day, wee went from this place, and by night
gotte some twelve leagues beyond, and being past all
townes wee lodged as before in the woods, and the next
day came to the falles of the river; up some of which
falles we shotte with our boates, and going upon a rocke
there came some nine canoas up the river to us, and
would have gone up with us to kill the Waccawayans,
because they had killed some of them, as before is said.
Whereupon the Captaines and Master Monax tooke
advise: and because nowe they had learned, as they sayde,
that five dayes journey farther there was a fall not
passable, and that by this meanes they should make the
Wacchawayans their enemies, which would turne to our
great hurt, when Sir Walter Ralegh should come thither,
having occasion to use this river, where wee were informed was good store of golde, they resolved to returne,
though I yeelded divers reasons to the contrary. So upon
Tuesday night, we came backe to Vaperon, where we
lodged.
And upon Wednesday the fourth of May, wee came to
our shippes: where it was reported that the Spaniardes
were gonne out of Desekebe, which was not so: but as it
seemed in policie by them given out to make our men
that wee left in our shippes more carelesse, that they
might the easier have surprised them in our absence.
The next night wee had newes brought us to Mawranamo,
where we yet roade, that there were tenne canoas of
Spaniardes in the mouth of Coritine; and fearing lest
they had intended to come to us in the night, we fitted
all our gunnes and muskets, and kept good watch to
prevent them of their purpose; who, as it was afterwarde
tolde us, went along the coast to buy bread and other
victuals for them in
Orenoque, Marowgo, and Desekebe.
Upon Fryday the sixth of May we weighed and made
downe the river, and upon Sunday the eighth we gat
cleare of it.
This river is much like unto Marawynne in bredth, and
about fiftie leagues from the mouth to the first falles,
full of Islandes as the other: in which three rivers, Mano
,
Tapuere, and Tabuebbi, otherwise Tapuellibi: with sixe
Townes, Warrawalle, Mawranamo, Maapuere, Maccharibi, Yohoron, and Vaperon. And so clering our selves
of this coast, wee tooke our course to the Islands of the
West Indies.
Now I thinke it not amisse to speak something of this
countrey. And first touching the climate; though it
stand within the Tropick, and something neere to the
Equinoctial, so that the Sunne is twise a yeere over their
heads & never far from them, yet is it temperate ynough
in those partes. For besides that wee lost not a man
upon the coast, one that was sicke before hee came there,
was nothing sicker for being there, but came home safe,
thanks be to God. And for mine owne part, I was never
better in body in all my life, and in like sort fared it with
the rest of the company :. for indeed it is not so extreame
hote as many imagine. The people in all the lower parts
of the countrey goe naked, both men and women, being
of severall languages, very tractable, and ingenious, and
very loving and kinde to Englishmen generally; as by
experience we found, and upon our owne knowledge doe
report. In the upper countreys they goe apparelled,
being, as it seemeth, of a more civill disposition, having
great store of golde, as we are certeinely informed by
the lower Indians, of whom we had some golde, which
they brought and bought in the high countrey of Wiana,
being able to buy no more, because they wanted the things
which now wee have left among them. They keepe no
order of marriage; but have as many wives as they can
buy, or win by force of their enemies, which principally
is the cause of all their warres. For bread there is infinite
store of casavi, which is as good bread as a man need
to eate, and better then we can cary any thither. We
spent not a bit of our owne all the while we were upon
the coast. It is made of a root so called; which they
take and scrape, and crush all the juyce out, being poison;
and when it is drie it is as fine floure as our white meale
maketh: which dry as it is, without any moisture, they
strew upon a round stone, having a still fire under it,
and so it congealeth to a cake; and when it commeth
new off, it eateth like to our new white bread. Besides
there is great store of Guiny-Wheat (whereof they make
passing good drinke) which after it is once sowed, if you
cut off the eare, on the same stalke groweth another.
For victuals, wee either did not, or at least needed not
to have spent any of our owne: for there is great store
of as good fish in the rivers, as any is in the world.
Great store of fowle, of divers sorts. Tortoise-flesh
plentifull, and Tortoises egges innumerable. Deere,
swine, conies, hares, cockes and hennes, with potatoes
more then wee could spend. Besides, all kinde of fruits,
at all times of the yeere: and the rarest fruits of the
world, the pine, the plantan, with infinite other variable
and pleasant, growing to their handes, without planting
or dressing. For commodities, though wee had but small
time to search, because wee spent so much time in searching the rivers: yet wee have brought examples of some,
which the countrey yeeldeth in great plenty: as a kinde
of long hempe like unto steele hempe, fine cotton wooll,
which the trees yeeld great store of; and wherewith the
women make a fine threed, which will make excellent good
fustians or stockings. Great store of pitch, divers sorts
of sweet gummes, & West Indian pepper, balsamum,
parrots and monkies. Besides divers other commodities,
which in good time may be found out to the benefit of
our countrey, and profit of the adventurers, who as yet
having ventured much, have gained litle.
Now leaving the river of Coritine, passing by Saint
Vincent, Santa Lucia, and Matalina, we came to Dominica
upon the Friday following, being the thirteenth of May,
having lost the barke that came out with us the Wednesday before. Upon Sunday morning, the fifteenth of May,
we came to Guadalupe
, where wee watered at the Southern
part of the Island, and having done by night, we set saile,
and stood away to the Northward, but were becalmed all
night, and untill tenne of the clocke on Munday night:
at which time having a faire gale at East, and after at
Southeast, wee passed along in the sight of Monserate,
Antigua
, and Barbuda
. Upon the ninth of June, being
Thursday, we made the
Islands of Flores and Corvo
: and
the eight and twentieth of June we made the Lisart, and
that night came all safe to Plymmouth, blessed be God.
Betweene the
Isle of Barbuda in the West Indies and
England
we had three mighty stormes, many calmes, and
some contrary windes. And upon the foureteenth of June
1597, there being divers whales playing about our pinnesse, one of them crossed our stemme, and going under,
rubbed her backe against our keele: but by none of all
these we susteined any losse. Thanks be to him that
governeth all things.
Written by Master
Thomas Masham.