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Munich (Bavaria, Germany) (search for this): chapter 25
hought Metternich's system unwise, but the present management of Austria very important to the welfare of all Germany. Enfin, said he, il y a trois systems de politique à present en Europe: il y a d'abord, le systeme du mouvement sans progress, c'est la revolution; il y a le systeme qui veut que tout reste ou il est; et il y a le systeme du progres, par moyen des lumieres. This I took to be downright phrase-making. On the arts he talked better, especially of the schools of Dusseldorf and Munich; but he talked best upon matters of literature, for he is, after all, more of a man of letters, I suspect, than anything else. He said that when Mad. de Stael was here she excited a great sensation, and that she had the men of letters of the time, as it were, trotted up and down before her, successively, to see their paces. I was present, he went on, when Fichte's turn came. After talking with him a little while, she said, Now, Mons. Fichte, could you be so kind as to give me, in f
Humboldt, Tenn. (Tennessee, United States) (search for this): chapter 25
y showed no sort of obsequiousness to him, they treated him with a consideration and distinction not to be mistaken. This is partly owing to his personal claims and character, but partly, also, to his immediate and intimate relations with the King. We met him again at dinner, at Lord William Russell's, where were also Mr. Wheaton, the Baron von Munchhausen, the Hanoverian Minister, Sir George Hamilton, Lord Fitzgerald, and a young Englishman. The conversation was, of course, chiefly in Humboldt's hands, who talks with incredible volubility both in French and English, and seems to talk equally well upon all subjects; always, however, I suspect, with a little indulgence of sarcasm towards individuals he does not approve. He was very amusing to-day, and very instructive too; for knowledge, facts, hints, seem to crowd and struggle for utterance the moment he opens his mouth. I am sorry to think we shall hardly see him again. May 28.—The morning was occupied in visiting to take le
Brandenburg (Kentucky, United States) (search for this): chapter 25
pon political subjects, and I dare say may lecture very freely upon history, which is his principal branch but he seemed so round, easy, and fat, that I should hardly think there could be much that is dangerous in his mitigated radicalism. . . . May 21.—Mr. Forster having the good-nature to continue our cicerone, we have seen several things this morning very pleasantly. . . . . From the Gewerbe-Institut we were carried to an old building opposite, once the residence of the Margraves of Brandenburg, now containing, among other things, the ateliers of Rauch, Wach, and Tieck. . . . At Rauch's we saw many fine models of works, finished or undertaken,—four beautiful winged Victories in marble, for the King of Bavaria; a beautiful Danaide pouring out water, nearly completed, for the Crown Prince; and several other things,—but we missed seeing himself, as he is gone to Halle for a visit. I recollect both Rauch and Tieck very well, living in the picturesque valley of Carrara, in 1818, and<
Vienna (Wien, Austria) (search for this): chapter 25
endly streets, it seemed as if we were returning to a home, so natural and cheerful did everything appear to us. As we intended only to pass the night in Dresden, I went out immediately to see Tieck, whom I had promised to see again on our way to Vienna. By chance it was his birthday, and I found him surrounded by a large party of his friends, many of whom I knew perfectly well. It was an agreeable surprise to me to be greeted by so many, once more, whom I had not thought to meet again. Amonives at home and takes care of the estate; a truly agreeable, natural, frank young man of about sevenand-twenty, with a good deal of talent, much accomplished in the arts, and otherwise thoroughly educated. The second son [Count Frederick] is in Vienna; and the third [Count Leo], about twenty-four years old, has a place in the government at Prague, lives there chiefly, and manages another great estate of the family in that neighborhood. Both of them, as I was told in Dresden, are rather uncomm
Copenhagen (Denmark) (search for this): chapter 25
magnificence, as well as taste. . . . . It is a large gallery, comprising something in all the schools,—though not always of all the masters who ought to be there,—perfectly well arranged in historical order, so as to be easily studied and understood, in rich and beautiful halls, fresh and beautiful frames, admirably well managed and cared for; but, after all, for the number of pictures, not a great many good ones. . . On our return home we found Mr. Wheaton, who arrived yesterday from Copenhagen. . . . . I was very glad to see a countryman, and to come under the protection of my own minister. I went out with him and made one or two calls, but found nobody at home excepting Professor Gans, one of the most popular lecturers in the University here, and the least liked by the government, who have restrained him somewhat in the exercise of his functions as a teacher. It seemed, however, as if it could hardly be necessary, even on their own principles. He talked, to be sure, very fr
Prague (Czech Republic) (search for this): chapter 25
r. Humboldt. Ancillon. Savigny. Bohemia. Schloss Tetschen. Prague. A journey from Dresden to Berlin, and back again, was a very diLeo], about twenty-four years old, has a place in the government at Prague, lives there chiefly, and manages another great estate of the familnts Mr. Ticknor says: The family owns a still larger estate near Prague, and two other possessions elsewhere, so that it is very rich. Eve2.—We have travelled to-day twelve German miles, from Liebkovitz to Prague, and all the way have felt that we were really in Bohemia. . . . . , . . . . passing, as it were, over a vast prairie. From Schlan to Prague we rose a good deal, and on the top of the eminence looked down upohemian nationality about him. . . . . He offered himself to show us Prague, and we accepted his kindness, with some limitations. . . . . The, and came back to the city by Wallenstein's Square and Palace. Prague was then comparatively seldom visited, and the Journal contains ful
Portugal (Portugal) (search for this): chapter 25
ng, as the Cantatrici do, that I should be allowed to pass three months every year where I like, and that is Paris. I never knew a person at once so courtly and so bold in his conversation, or who talked so fast,— so excessively fast,—and yet so well. We dined with the English Minister, Lord William Russell, the second son of the Duke of Bedford, who was aide-de-camp to Lord Wellington the four last years of the Peninsular war, and, I think, had the command of the British troops sent to Portugal, under Mr. Canning's administration. . . . . The dinner was agreeable, but in a more purely English tone than anything I have met since we left England. When we were coming away, he invited us very earnestly to dine with him to-morrow, and as I hesitated a little, he said that Humboldt had been to him and asked him to invite him to meet us; adding that if we would come he would also ask Mr. Wheaton. It was, of course, too agreeable a proposition to be rejected. I passed the evening at
Wittenberg (Pennsylvania, United States) (search for this): chapter 25
Chapter 25: Berlin. Neander. Humboldt. Ancillon. Savigny. Bohemia. Schloss Tetschen. Prague. A journey from Dresden to Berlin, and back again, was a very different undertaking in 1836 from what it is now, five days being consumed in going to the Prussian capital, with halts for the night at Leipzic, Dessau, Wittenberg, and Potsdam, and three days required for the return. In Berlin, where Mr. Ticknor and his family arrived on the 17th of May, they witnessed a great review and sham fight of twenty thousand men, at which the Dukes of Orleans and Nemours were present, and on the 19th Mr. Ticknor began his visits, of which he describes the most interesting as follows:— May 19.—In the afternoon I made some visits, but found nobody . . . . except Neander, the Church historian, a perfect type of such German students as I used to see often when I was here before, but of whom this is the first specimen I have seen this time; living up three or four pair of stairs,
Charlottenburg (Berlin, Germany) (search for this): chapter 25
Danaide pouring out water, nearly completed, for the Crown Prince; and several other things,—but we missed seeing himself, as he is gone to Halle for a visit. I recollect both Rauch and Tieck very well, living in the picturesque valley of Carrara, in 1818, and hard at work on the monuments to which they have since trusted their fame. I should have been very glad, however, to see Rauch again; for though, when I saw him, he had already settled his reputation by the statue of the Queen at Charlottenburg, he had not proved the greater compass of his genius now shown in the still more beautiful statue at Potsdam, and the statues of Blucher, Scharnhorst, and Bulow, with their bas-reliefs in the great square in Berlin. I passed an hour this evening at Miss Solmar's, a well-known maiden lady of pleasant pretensions in conversation, who talks all tongues and keeps open house every evening. I met there, besides the Forsters,—with whom I went,—Varnhagen, formerly Prussian Minister in Bavari<
Dresden (Saxony, Germany) (search for this): chapter 25
Savigny. Bohemia. Schloss Tetschen. Prague. A journey from Dresden to Berlin, and back again, was a very different undertaking in 183a little girl of fifteen desperately in love with him. I saw it in Dresden, and thought it disgusting; and did not wonder that Mrs. Austin, iriking to one who has just come, as we have, from the quietness of Dresden. Its external appearance is greatly changed since I was here abouy, Mr. Ticknor and his family left Berlin, and on the 31st reached Dresden. As we drove through its well-known, friendly streets, it seeme everything appear to us. As we intended only to pass the night in Dresden, I went out immediately to see Tieck, whom I had promised to see auch inquiries to Count von Thun—Hohenstein, who frequently came to Dresden, and on whom Mr. Ticknor called when next he arrived. The Count sf the family in that neighborhood. Both of them, as I was told in Dresden, are rather uncommon persons; the first remarkable for his knowled
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