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April 19th (search for this): chapter 15
Pompeii. Think of seeing Pompeii at last! From the same place his family reported:— He suffers very much from not being allowed to tip everybody; but after being suppressed all the time in Tangier, on our way to the boat there a handsome little Moorish girl smiled on him, and walked along with him smiling still, and the guide was n't looking, and he was lost. We were detained at Castellamare for several weeks on account of an illness of our daughter Margaret. A letter, dated April 19, says of the invalid:— She is drinking a kind of local mineral water, prescribed by Pliny!! Some one suggested that a later endorsement might be valuable! We have to superintend the goat's milking morn and night and we do it from an upstairs window. The goat bleats, and then we go. Angelo stands by her with a silver tray, the fat boy (son of the former head-waiter who was murdered by the former cook) helps hold her contrary head, and the owner milks into a little pitcher. When c
May (search for this): chapter 15
regret that I could not look on the Irish hills with quite the intense delight they inspired when they were my first glimpse of Europe. Arrived again in London, in May, he writes:— Went to see Prof. Masson at the Athenaeum Club and found that I am admitted as a guest through [Sir Frederick] Pollock and Hughes. It is a grea as much of both as Agassiz. Colonel Higginson had been appointed a delegate to a Prison Reform Convention at Stockholm, and of a preparatory English meeting in May he said:— The one interesting person was Cardinal Manning—such a prepossessing and distinguished man, the very ideal of an ecclesiastic—tall, spare, with nobkinsman, who for the sake of a tie of blood 250 years old had thus given us the position of temporary Guardsmen—in England a very high title. The latter part of May he went to Beckenham, to dine and sleep at Mr. Darwin's . . . Oh! the beauty of Darwin's grounds, just a window looking on a few flower pots for the foreg
May 18th (search for this): chapter 15
y he said:— The one interesting person was Cardinal Manning—such a prepossessing and distinguished man, the very ideal of an ecclesiastic—tall, spare, with noble head above and narrowing to a keen ascetic jaw—eyes and mouth full of mobility and sensitiveness, the most winning voice and manner, as much American as English, and speaking so nobly and sweetly and humanly. I never felt more the power of the Roman Catholic Church than in seeing how it evolves its man and keeps the type. May 18. I went to a reception at Mr. Martineau's (James) chiefly his students and parishioners. . . . It was rather stiffish and the person I liked best was a very pleasing young Professor, Knight of St. Andrew's (Scotland) who to my surprise had my Epictetus and knew all about it. To the interesting trial of Mrs. Besant's claim to her child—a case between a Christian husband (clergyman) and an atheist wife, to be tried before a Jewish magistrate on the Jewish Sabbath . . . . It was strange
May 23rd (search for this): chapter 15
tional dance) in honor of their father. Removed to the bracing air of Capri, the record continued:— Found a very pleasant circle of English and American men. I enjoyed also meeting Wm. Wordsworth, grandson of the poet and himself a minor poet,—a most distinguished looking man, a handsome likeness of his grandpapa. And later:— To tea at William Wordsworth's, returning on donkeys. W. W. is the favorite grandson of the poet. The next extract is from a Florence letter:— May 23. To-day I lunched with the Marchesa Peruzzi de Medici. She is the daughter of Story the sculptor. She lives in a narrow street. You come up a fine stairway into a series of dark high rooms, with some quaint old furniture, frescoed walls and many traces of Story's sculpture work. Out of one parlor opens a small private chapel. I waited a while and heard a door open softly and in glided a little elderly woman, quiet as possible, and putting out a shy soft hand to me. I was quite bewilde
June (search for this): chapter 15
), G. J. Holyoke (veteran radical), Mr. Blyden of Liberia (black and Mohammedan who has written on that subject in Fraser), Mrs. Rose (formerly of N. Y.), A. J. Eyres the philologist, and various Unitarian ministers. I spoke several times and twice succeeded in allaying incipient contests by suggesting phrases that reconciled different opinions, so that one speaker proposed to send me as arbitrator to reconcile the strikes now going on at the North, and they all laughed and applauded. In June Colonel Higginson was in Oxford on Commemoration Day and lunched with the new D. C.L's and their wives and other notabilities, a grand affair in the beautiful hall of All Souls College. I sat between Bryce and Mrs. Spottiswode, wife of one of the new D. C.L's, and opposite a young Lord Donoughmore, whose name delighted me because I thought of the statues of Haythen goddesses most rare Homer, Venus and Nebuchadnezzar All standing naked in the open air. The song says of them farther th
June 5th (search for this): chapter 15
— Heard Tyndall at Royal Institute and saw him afterwards—delightful man—asked me to dine with him. . . . I sat between Tyndall and one whom I supposed a physician but found to be Lord Lyttleton. I remembered luckily a pretty Latin translation by him of a poem of Lord Houghton's and spoke of it . . . . I think the ease with which one steps into a round only too delightful here is amazing. ... Heard Bradlaugh the great popular orator of England . . . who came and took lunch with me. June 5. Met Mr. Gladstone by appointment at 12—a fine wise keen face, voice like Emerson's without the hesitancy—we talked America and literature and he heard for the first time that his Juventus Mundi was reprinted. He asked me to breakfast for Thursday next, but impossible. The same day he met Huxley whom he described as shortish, strong, black-bearded, with blacking-brush style of hair, looks like a scientific shoemaker, but talks to the point. From Oxford he wrote:— Bryce soon ca
June 14th (search for this): chapter 15
is sentiments forced. Walt Whitman among their set is the American poet; the taste for Miller has passed by and though he is here his poetry is forgotten. He was thought original and characteristic and when he came to parties with trousers thrust in his boots, he was thought the only American who dared do in England as he would do at home. Whittier was unknown they said, and Lowell only through the Biglow Papers. Swinburne calls him no poet but a critic who tries to write poetry. （13-14 June) I spent in Conway's Convention which was very interesting and called out strong character and ready speaking. I was on the committee too to draft the Constitution which differs somewhat from our Free Religious Association (as does the name Association of Liberal Thinkers). The best known people in it were Voysey (a small and narrow soul who got alarmed and withdrew), Leslie Stephen (who married Miss Thackeray), Stuart Glennie (who wrote the account of Buckle's Eastern travels), G. J. Hol
July (search for this): chapter 15
suppose— but the Massons did not know it and it seemed so strange and weird that an American from afar should go wandering about the old place, for the love of a ballad which perhaps the Keiths of Ravelston do not know. Returning to London in July, he went to a charming garden party . . . . The company was distinguished—Huxley, Spencer, Galton, my friend and reader Mark Pattison from Oxford, Sir Rutherford Alcock, Walter Crane and his wife and others . . . . Huxley . . . was very cordstituted. Both she and the son spoke strongly of the practical character of Browning and said he was always ready to help every one, while Tennyson lived more in the clouds; but they testified to the unbroken friendship between the poets. In July we were back in England, dipping into Wales and exploring the Lake region. From Grasmere Colonel Higginson wrote:— My wife and I drove out to Rydal Mount, Wordsworth's later home, and as we stood looking through the gate a very pleasing man<
July 2nd (search for this): chapter 15
fessor of Poetry of yesterday, Principal Sharp of St. Andrews, whose books have been printed in America, Poetic Interpretation of Nature, etc.—he is a thin Scotch looking man, recalling Eliot Cabot. I did not at first fancy some things about him but about the time we crossed the border we got acquainted. He soon said, Did you ever hear of yarrow? I could hardly help laughing and . . . told him every educated American knew every place mentioned in Scott, Burns or the Border Minstrelsy. July 2. Edinburgh. Had a delightful trip by coach to Roslin. Nobody can be disappointed in Roslin Chapel . . . . I longed for hours of peace there. July 3. Dined with the Massons—his talk about Edinburgh was very interesting. He came here to the University from Aberdeen and says that three of the professors, Wilson (Chr. North) Chalmers and Sir Wm. Hamilton were the three most striking men in appearance that he ever saw. Wilson's hair was yellow, Chalmers's white and Hamilton's very dark—Wil<
July 3rd (search for this): chapter 15
in Scotch looking man, recalling Eliot Cabot. I did not at first fancy some things about him but about the time we crossed the border we got acquainted. He soon said, Did you ever hear of yarrow? I could hardly help laughing and . . . told him every educated American knew every place mentioned in Scott, Burns or the Border Minstrelsy. July 2. Edinburgh. Had a delightful trip by coach to Roslin. Nobody can be disappointed in Roslin Chapel . . . . I longed for hours of peace there. July 3. Dined with the Massons—his talk about Edinburgh was very interesting. He came here to the University from Aberdeen and says that three of the professors, Wilson (Chr. North) Chalmers and Sir Wm. Hamilton were the three most striking men in appearance that he ever saw. Wilson's hair was yellow, Chalmers's white and Hamilton's very dark—Wilson was a giant, and his statue does not exaggerate his lion like port; Chalmers's face was large and heavy and seamed—he had but little book knowledge b<
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