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Turin (Italy) (search for this): chapter 10
is now very old, and being a Parisian, and daughter of a man distinguished by his rank and talents, had to pass through many vicissitudes during the Revolution, and relates a vast number of interesting anecdotes of French society, from the time of Buffon and Franklin down to the elevation of Bonaparte. The Count was no doubt the most learned and sound man in Madrid. He has passed a great part of his life in study and learned society; is himself the head and chief support of the Academy of Turin; and, after being ambassador all over Europe, has, since I left Madrid, been called home to be Minister of State, and Director of Public Instruction,—an office for which he asked on account of the quiet it would give him in his old age; at the same time he refused the splendid appointment of viceroy of the island of Sardinia, which was sent to him while I was at Madrid. I used to dine with him often in an unceremonious way, and enjoyed much the overflow of his very extensive and judicious l
Mexico (Mexico, Mexico) (search for this): chapter 10
r still rages; for St. Ildefonso is situated where no other monarch's palace is, in the region of the clouds, since it is higher up than the crater of Vesuvius, and precisely at that elevation where the great clouds are commonly formed in summer. See Humboldt, Configuration du sol de l'espagne. I sent my letter of introduction to Count Guaiaqui, a Peruvian nobleman of talent and an immense fortune, who was six years captain-general of his country, and has since refused the viceroyalty of Mexico. He called on me immediately, and brought the governor of the place, who offered me all sorts of civilities, and arranged my visit here, and at Segovia, in the pleasantest manner. The following morning I began my operations, conducted by Count Guaiaqui, and, in the course of a most beautiful day, enjoyed all that is to be seen at this royal sitio. It is entirely the work of Philip V. Before his time there was nothing here but a farm-house, belonging to a convent of Segovia, which he bought
Madrid (Spain) (search for this): chapter 10
Chapter 10: Madrid. the Prado. theatres. Spanish people. the Court. society in Maa statue and prays. . . . . As to theatres, Madrid has but two, and these have always been in a s it. Royalty is little respected on Mondays in Madrid, and therefore whatever the people persist in court in Europe; but this is all there is, at Madrid, that can interest or amuse any stranger at thnt, curiosity, or occupation bring together at Madrid take refuge in one another's society. The poierous and splendid, merely Spanish tertulia in Madrid that I saw. I went to it rarely, and always on ambassador all over Europe, has, since I left Madrid, been called home to be Minister of State, andSardinia, which was sent to him while I was at Madrid. I used to dine with him often in an unceremos father was in the oldest class,—the first at Madrid. He has much learning, good taste, and sense Arabic manuscripts by Cassini, in two folios. Madrid, 1770. which he took at sea, on board a vessel[23 more...]
Salda (Russia) (search for this): chapter 10
the gladiators and circenses, for examples before us. Of their earliest origin I have no knowledge, nor am I aware that any can be obtained; for almost nothing has been written upon them. . . . . The first intimations I find of them are in the oldest Spanish Chronicle,—that dark chaos from which the elements of Spanish poetry and history are alike drawn, and which is itself hardly less interesting and instructive than either. There it is said, incidentally, that there were bull-fights in Saldaña, in 1124, on the marriage of Alfonso VII.; and there is an ancient tradition, which I think I have noticed in his Chronicle, that the Cid was a famous toreador, and that he was the first that ever fought bulls on horseback. Mr. Ticknor sketches in many pages the growth, ceremonies, and mode of carrying on the bull-fights,—a long and minute description, which he afterwards arranged as an article for the North American Review, July, 1825, Vol. XXI. p. 62. They take place only in the
Italy (Italy) (search for this): chapter 10
ed unwearied pains, was, among those of his own age, what his father was in the oldest class,—the first at Madrid. He has much learning, good taste, and sense for all that is great and beautiful, extraordinary talents, and an enthusiasm which absolutely preys upon his strength and health. But, though he is passionately fond of letters, his whole spirit is eaten up with political and military ambition. He thinks of nothing but Italy, and, taking his motto from his favorite Dante, Ahi serva Italia di dolore ostello, etc., is continually studying the Principe and Arte di Guerra, and dreaming over Machiavelli's grand plan to consolidate it all into one great, splendid empire, with the Alps for a barrier against the intrusions of the North. I knew him intimately, for there was seldom a day we did not meet at least once, and I shall always remember him with affection, for it is rare in Europe to meet a young man with so high talents and so pure a character. On Wednesday evening there wa
Jackson (Mississippi, United States) (search for this): chapter 10
who was so much respected, both by the diplomacy, the government, and the Spaniards. As to the opinion of the diplomacy, I know it as well as I can know anything; and Mr. Pizarro and Mr. Garay made so little mystery of respecting Mr. Erving more than any other foreign minister at Madrid, that it gave a little umbrage to them all, as three of them have told me, and as I easily saw without being told. Moreover, the king's conduct to him personally at the levee, after he received the news of Jackson's taking Pensacola, and when, the Prince Laval had triumphantly told me the night before, and M. de Tatistcheff had told Caesar de Balbo, he would not venture to be seen at court, sufficiently showed what was the influence of his name and character, which he has entirely founded, as everybody there knows, on two rules,—never to ask anything however inconsiderable from anybody as a favor, and never to cease to insist upon what he ought to claim as a right. In his own house I found him very
France (France) (search for this): chapter 10
going to court, of course, naming the day; come and stand by me when the royal family pass, and I will make her boast of it. When the time came, Mr. Ticknor took his place by the Duke; the ladies of course stopped to speak with the Ambassador of France. When the Portuguese princess came, the Duke said to her that he heard they had a fine bull-fight on Monday. O yes, she said; and I did something towards its success, for I drove in the pica . . . . . It is a curious and interesting sight togreat offices of the kingdom. They have repeatedly been married into the royal family of the Bourbons, have acquired successively the title of Count of Buchoven, and Prince of Laval from the German Empire, Duke of Laval, and peer of the realm in France, and Duke of San Fernando-Luis and grandee of the first class in Spain, besides all sorts of knighthoods, crosses, commanderships, etc., etc., and besides having been, more than once, at the head of affairs at home, and having often gained great
Florence (Italy) (search for this): chapter 10
id, 1770. which he took at sea, on board a vessel bound to Morocco; it would now be beyond all price, but that the greater part of it was burnt in 1671. Since the time of Philip IV., who finished the ornaments of both the halls of the libraries, little has been added to either. Among the manuscripts here should be mentioned those of their church service, which are the largest and most magnificent in their style of execution, illumination, etc., I ever saw, far before the famous ones of Florence. There are 220 of them, each so large that they can be carried only by two men on their shoulders. In the collection of reliques is a Greek manuscript of the Four Gospels, pretended—in an inscription that looks to be about the fourteenth century—to have belonged to St. Chrysostom. It is certainly ancient, written in initial capitals, etc., and deserves attention, if it has not received it. The pictures which have been accumulated here are numerous, and scattered through the whole buil
Department de Ville de Paris (France) (search for this): chapter 10
jusqua au Roi, tout le monde dise, quand je passerai, c'est un excellent homme; il a le coeur profoundement bon; and, in truth, I never saw him otherwise. Mad. de Stael loved him very much, and during her last sickness, when he happened to be at Paris, used to beg him to come and see her every day, that she might enjoy his brilliant conversation; for, even at Paris, he was famous for this talent, and at Madrid was unique. His dinners were by far the pleasantest there, for whatever there was oParis, he was famous for this talent, and at Madrid was unique. His dinners were by far the pleasantest there, for whatever there was of elegant talent and literature at Madrid were friends at his house, and, wherever he was, the conversation took a more interesting and cultivated turn than elsewhere. The daily rides that I made with him, and Caesar de Balbo, are among the brightest spots in my life in Europe, though perhaps I never disputed so much and so hotly, in a given time, in my life, for though he is nearly fifty years old, and has passed, with unmoved tranquillity, through the revolutions of the last thirty years, wi
Versailles (France) (search for this): chapter 10
summer. Philip was a Frenchman, who knew of nothing and conceived nothing more beautiful than Versailles. La Granja, therefore, is its miniature. There are three gates of entrance which form the frory we went with the governor, who came to find us, to the palace. It is a mere repetition of Versailles in its outline and arrangement, and like that, has a fine facade towards the gardens, and a ch the great reservoir on the side of the mountain that supplies them, all still reminding me of Versailles in miniature, though the situation and scenery are vastly finer. After this I went to dine wionductor took me by the elbow, and I went to see the fountain of Diana, which is imitated from Versailles, and the most poetical thought I have ever seen in this kind of ornament; but the imitation isthing so struck and delighted me as the first coup d'oeil, compared with which all there is at Versailles is a mere awkwardly combined plaything. . . . . In the morning I rode on to Segovia. . . .
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