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Madrid (Spain) (search for this): chapter 3
Chapter 3: Florence. Niccolini. Madame Lenzoni. Grand Duke. Micali. Alberti manuscripts of Tasso. Gino Capponi. Italian society. Rome. Bunsen. Thorwaldsen. Princess Gabrielli. Borgheses. Cardinal Fesch. English society. Princess Massimo. Archceological lectures. Journal. Florence, November 5.—A rainy day. I went, however, to see my friend Bellocq, whom I knew in Madrid as Secretary of the French Embassy there, and who is here Charge d'affaires from France, a bachelor, grown old, and somewhat delabre, but apparently with as much bonhomie as ever. I drove, too, to Greenough's house, but found he had gone to the United States; Horatio Greenough, the American sculptor. . . . . but I did little else except make inquiries about the cholera at Naples, which threatens to interfere with our plans. In the evening I went to a regular Italian conversazione, which occurs twice a week at the house of the Marchioness Lenzoni, the last descendant of one
Ilva (Italy) (search for this): chapter 3
that could compromise nobody . . . . . November 20.—. . . . In the evening we drove out to Fiesole, where Mr. Thompson of New York has been living two years, in a very nice, comfortable villa. . . . . . At table, I happened to sit next to the Princess Galitzin, and it is a long time since I have talked with any lady who had at once so much good sense and so much brilliancy in her conversation. After dinner, while I was near her, Bartolini gave us an interesting account of his residence at Elba, with Bonaparte, whose sculptor he was, and who was so kind to him, both then and previously, that he is still a thorough Bonapartist. One of the works Bonaparte ordered from him was a series of very large marble vases, in which to place lights, for the purpose of illuminating a terrace where he walked in the nights; and Bartolini was at Carrara, employed about them, when Bonaparte made his escape and began the adventures of the famous Hundred Days. . . . . November 22.—I went this morni
Saint James (Missouri, United States) (search for this): chapter 3
e's dowry; Queen Caroline Caroline Bonaparte, sister of Napoleon I., once Queen of Naples as wife of Murat. is quarrelling with Joseph and Jerome for the inheritance she claims from Madame Mere; the Princess of Canino is in Tuscany, furiously jealous of her husband, and yet refusing to join him in England. One of her daughters Half-sister to the Princess Gabrielli. She did not lose her life by the escapade here mentioned. is Mrs. Wyse, who threw herself into the Serpentine River in St. James's Park, a few years ago; . . . . one son is exiled to America for having been concerned in a murder; another is now in the castle of St. Angelo, under sentence of death, as the principal who committed it; and so on, and so on. Of the whole Bonaparte family the Princess Gabrielli is, in short, the only one who can now be said to be in an eligible position in society, or personally happy, and she owes the whole of this to her good sense, to freedom from all ambition, and to her truly simp
Cardinal Albani (search for this): chapter 3
the birthday of Winckelmann, held at the Villa Albani, under the auspices and presidency of Bunsen. He had invited me to it, when I was still in Florence, and he called to-day and took me out in his carriage. The villa is neglected, but its palazzo, a fine building, is well preserved; the collection of antiques—stolen, literally stolen by the French—has been replaced, and the whole is much in the state in which it was when Winckelmann lived there, under the patronage of the well-known Cardinal Albani. Between three and four o'clock about ninety persons were collected, chiefly Germans, with a few English and Italian, and among them were the Russian Charge d'affaires; Kestner, the Hanoverian Minister; Thorwaldsen; Visconti; Dr. Carlyle, brother to the obscure writer for the Reviews; Wolff; Plattner; all the principal German artists, etc. Gerhard went round with all of us, and lectured on the Gallery and its most interesting monuments very agreeably; after which we went up stairs, a
Octavia (search for this): chapter 3
ching is Calvinistic, and clumsily so. But last winter we had not even this. After church we walked in the Villa Borghese . . . . . December 20.—. . . . We visited, this morning, the remains of the Theatre of Marcellus, and of the Portico of Octavia. There is, after all, not a great deal to be seen of them; but the antiquarians are much interested about them always, because the marble plan at the Capitol shows so distinctly what they were; and everybody feels interested in what bears the name of Octavia, the sister of Augustus, whom Shakespeare has so well described in a few lines, and in Marcellus, whom Virgil has immortalized in still fewer. Antony and Cleopatra, Act II. Sc. 2, and Aeneid, Book VI. v. 884. The Theatre was begun by Julius Caesar (Dio Cass., 53-30, p. 725, and 43, 49, p. 376), but was finished by Augustus, and dedicated, A. u. c. 741, to the memory of Marcellus, who had been dead ten years (Plin., 8, 23; Suet. Aug., 29). . . . . The Portico, which Augus
Gino Capponi (search for this): chapter 3
Chapter 3: Florence. Niccolini. Madame Lenzoni. Grand Duke. Micali. Alberti manuscripts of Tasso. Gino Capponi. Italian society. Rome. Bunsen. Thorwaldsen. Princess Gabrielli. Borgheses. Cardinal Fesch. English society. Princess Massimo. Archceological lectures. Journal. Florence, November 5.—A rainy day. I went, however, to see my friend Bellocq, whom I knew in Madrid as Secretary of the French Embassy there, and who is here Charge d'affaires from Francave a most suspicious completeness about them, comprising even several notes of the Princess Eleonora herself. Of this last party,—adverse to the genuineness of the manuscripts,—are now, I am told, all the men of letters in Florence: Niccolini, Capponi, Micali, Becchi, etc., though some of them, like Niccolini, were at first believers in their authenticity, and gave certificates to that effect. I have talked with these four persons and some others about it, and they seem to have no doubt; an<
Dio (search for this): chapter 3
r all, not a great deal to be seen of them; but the antiquarians are much interested about them always, because the marble plan at the Capitol shows so distinctly what they were; and everybody feels interested in what bears the name of Octavia, the sister of Augustus, whom Shakespeare has so well described in a few lines, and in Marcellus, whom Virgil has immortalized in still fewer. Antony and Cleopatra, Act II. Sc. 2, and Aeneid, Book VI. v. 884. The Theatre was begun by Julius Caesar (Dio Cass., 53-30, p. 725, and 43, 49, p. 376), but was finished by Augustus, and dedicated, A. u. c. 741, to the memory of Marcellus, who had been dead ten years (Plin., 8, 23; Suet. Aug., 29). . . . . The Portico, which Augustus built afterwards, for the accommodation and shelter of the people frequenting the Theatre, was a wide range of buildings, including two or three temples, of which remains are found now in two churches in the neighborhood, and several columns and inscriptions in the
Dido (search for this): chapter 3
exists now in Florence; and what made it more striking, I was offered for lodging-rooms the very suite of apartments in her palazzo over that in which I used to visit her; the very suite, too, that was occupied by Alfieri, and where I passed a forenoon once in looking over his library and manuscripts. Au reste, she has not left any odor of sanctity behind her among the Florentines. In the latter part of her life she fell under the influence of a Frenchman by the name of Fabre,— you remember Dido's conjugium vocat, hoc proetexit nomine culpam,— and when she died she left him all her property; so the Palazzo Alfieri, as it is called, is turned into a lodging-house, and all Alfieri's books and manuscripts are carried off to the South of France, except a duplicate copy of his Tragedies, which Monsieur Fabre gave to the Laurentian Library. This annoys the Italians, and so much the more, because Alfieri, not in legal, but in poetical form, by a sonnet, had signified his wish that his libr
Cardinal Fesch (search for this): chapter 3
uscripts of Tasso. Gino Capponi. Italian society. Rome. Bunsen. Thorwaldsen. Princess Gabrielli. Borgheses. Cardinal Fesch. English society. Princess Massimo. Archceological lectures. Journal. Florence, November 5.—A rainy day.em collections, and of the lectures he heard from Bunsen, Gerhard, and Lepsius. . . . . December 23.—I went to see Cardinal Fesch this morning, and sat an hour with him. He is now seventy-four years old, and is somewhat, though not much, changed ss own admirable gallery. However, if his vanity gets excited, his legacies may be worth something. There is a College Fesch at Ajaccio, a high school for boys, of which one wing contains pictures—said to be eight hundred in number—from Cardinal Cardinal Fesch's collection, given by Joseph Bonaparte in 1842, and hardly one good painting among them. . . . . In the evening we had a visit from the kind Chevalier Kestner, after which I passed an hour quietly and agreeably at the Princess Borghese's,
E. Gerhard (search for this): chapter 3
and son of Werther's Albert and, Charlotte; Plattner, who has been in Rome above thirty years; Gerhard, the famous archaeologist, etc. It was, like all such soirees, agreeable in proportion as you f to the obscure writer for the Reviews; Wolff; Plattner; all the principal German artists, etc. Gerhard went round with all of us, and lectured on the Gallery and its most interesting monuments very table; toasts were drank, speeches were made, both in German and Italian, by the president, by Gerhard, Visconti, etc.; and there was a delightful choir of young Germans, who sang with effect severa his visits to ancient remains and modem collections, and of the lectures he heard from Bunsen, Gerhard, and Lepsius. . . . . December 23.—I went to see Cardinal Fesch this morning, and sat an houg at the Archaeological Institute. It is to be delivered by Bunsen, on the Topography of Rome; Gerhard, on Painted Vases; and Lepsius, on Egyptian Monuments. The lecture to-day was by Bunsen, on th
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