CHAP. 29.—ALTCA.
But among the very first things of all, we ought to speak of
the method employed in preparing alica,
1 a most delightful
and most wholesome food, and which incontestably confers
upon Italy the highest rank among the countries that produce
the cereals. This delicacy is prepared, no doubt, in Egypt
as well, but of a very inferior quality, and not worth our notice. In Italy, however, it is prepared in numerous places,
the territories of Verona and Pisæ, for example; but that of
Campania is the most highly esteemed. There, at the foot of
mountains capped with clouds, runs a plain, not less in all than
forty miles in extent. The land here—to give a description
first of the nature of the soil—is dusty on the surface, but
spongy below, and as porous as pumice. The inconveniences
that generally arise from the close vicinity of mountains are
here converted into so many advantages: for the soil, acting
on it as a sort of filter, absorbs the water of the abundant
rains that fall; the consequence of which is, that the water not
being left to soak or form mud on the surface, the cultivation
is greatly facilitated thereby. This land does not return, by
the aid of any springs, the moisture it has thus absorbed, but
thoroughly digests it, by warming it in its bosom, in a heated
oven as it were. The ground is kept cropped the whole year
through, once with panic, and twice with spelt; and yet in the
spring, when the soil is allowed to have a moment's repose,
it will produce roses more odoriferous by far than the cultivated
rose: for the earth here is never tired of producing, a circumstance in which originated the common saying, that Campania
produces more unguents
2 than other countries do oil.
In the same degree, however, that the Campanian soil excels
that of all other countries, so does that part of it which is
known to us as Laboriæ,
3 and to the Greeks as Phlegræum,
surpass all the rest. This district is bounded on two sides by
the consular high road, which leads from Puteoli to Capua on
the one side, and from Cumæ on the other.
Alica is prepared from the grain called zea, which we have
already mentioned
4 as being known to us as "seed" wheat.
The grain is cleansed in a wooden mortar, for fear lest stone,
from its hardness, should have the effect of grating it. The
motive power for raising the pestle, as is generally known, is
supplied by slaves working in chains, the end of it being enclosed in a case of iron. After the husks have been removed
by this process, the pure grain is broken to pieces, the same
implements being employed. In this way, there are three
different kinds of alica made, the finest, the seconds, and the
coarse, which last is known as "aphærema."
5 Still, however,
these various kinds have none of them that whiteness as yet
for which they are so distinguished, though even now they are
preferable to the Alexandrian alica. With this view—a most
singular fact—chalk
6 is mixed with the meal, which, upon
becoming well incorporated with it, adds very materially to
both the whiteness and the shortness
7 of the mixture. This
chalk is found between Puteoli and Neapolis, upon a hill called
Leucogæum;
8 and there is still in existence a decree of the
late Emperor Augustus, (who established a colony at Capua),
which orders a sum of twenty thousand sesterces to be paid
annually from his exchequer to the people of Neapolis, for the
lease of this hill. His motive for paying this rent, he stated,
was the fact that the people of Campania had alleged that it
was impossible to make their alica without the help of this
mineral. In the same hill, sulphur is found as well, and the
springs of Araxus issue from its declivities, the waters of which
are particularly efficacious for strengthening the sight, healing
wounds, and preventing the teeth from becoming loose.
A spurious kind of alica is made, more particularly of a degenerate kind of zea grown in Africa; the ears of it are larger
and blacker than those of the genuine kind, and the straw is
short. This grain is pounded with sand, and even then it is
with the greatest difficulty that the outer coats are removed;
when stripped, the grain fills one half only of the original
measure. Gypsum, in the proportion of one fourth, is then
sprinkled
9 over it, and after the mixture has been well incorporated, it is bolted through a meal-sieve. The portion that
remains behind, after this is done, is known as "excepticia,"
10
and consists of the coarser parts; while that which has passed
through is submitted to a second process, with a finer sieve;
and that which then refuses to pass has the name of "secun-
daria."
11 That, again, which, in a similar manner, is submitted
to a third sifting, with a sieve of the greatest fineness, which
will only admit of sand passing through it, is known as "cribraria,"
12 when it remains on the top of the sieve.
There is another method, again, that is employed every
where for adulterating it. They pick out the whitest and
largest grains of wheat, and parboil them in earthen pots; these
are then dried in the sun till they have regained their original
size, after which they are lightly sprinkled with water, and
then ground in a mill. A better granæum
13 is made from zea
than from wheat, although it is nothing else, in fact, but a
spurious alica: it is whitened by the addition of boiled milk,
in place of chalk.