Chapter 1: Louisiana.

St. Charles! Eighteen miles from New Orleans. Another hour! We try to catch the landscape as the pools and marshes, cedars and palmettoes slip behind us; but we try in vain to fix our minds on trifles by the way. A grove of orange trees, the fruit all burning ripe, arrests attention and provokes a cry of rapture; yet the coolest brain among us frets and flutters, for we know that we are driving towards a scene of strife, on which the eyes and hearts of forty millions of people are fixed in passionate hope and dread.

President Grant affirms that “anarchy reigns in Louisiana.” No one doubts the fact; but General McEnery and the White citizens assert that this “reign of anarchy” was introduced by Grant, and

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