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[444] a Whig give him. He does not talk brilliantly,—he hardly talks well, for he hesitates, blushes even, and has a queer chuckling laugh, —but he interests you and commands your attention. I felt sure all the time that I was getting right impressions from him. . . . . As we went down to the chapel, Lord Spencer told me that so solemn and fine a chapel is nowhere else kept up in England. Dr. Dundas read prayers, and about fifty-five were present.

Sunday, October 4.—The forenoon was rainy. . . . . Lord Fitzwilliam said he was not well and should not go to church, but asked round, and collected a considerable number, for whom he ordered three carriages. . . . .

Lord Spencer talked with decided ability about the Poor-Laws as we walked home, for the rain had ceased. He told me, too, about his brother, who, from being a richly beneficed English clergyman, has become a poor, fervent Catholic priest; and yet is a man of much talent and learning, who greatly distinguished himself at Cambridge. At the end of our talk he invited us to visit him at Althorp, any time after December 1, which is the earliest period he can be there himself, and I was very sorry to be obliged to decline. I should revel in that magnificent library and most beautiful establishment. But we cannot go. It is time already that we were on our way to Dresden.

The dinner to-day was in greater state than we have yet seen it; that is, there was a greater show of plate, five gilt silver ‘cups,’ as they are called, but really massive vases of elaborate workmanship, ornamenting the centre of the table and three more the sideboard, the whole being prizes won by the family race-horses. . . .

In the evening we looked over a good many of Lord Fitzwilliam's curious black-letter books, and Lord Spencer told us so much about Althorp, that I was very glad to promise to make him a visit there on our return from the Continent. Dr. Dundas read the evening service at ten o'clock. The chapel was very full to-night, more than a hundred servants being present. The huntsmen in their scarlet dresses, who have come [from Northamptonshire] since we were here before, made quite a show.

October 5.—It is a rainy morning, and yet when we went to breakfast I found Lord Spencer with spurs on, prepared for a ride. He told me that he is going to Wakefield, to see the prison there, and had sent on one of his horses to change half-way. The distance is eighteen miles, making thirty-six in all, which he prefers to take on horseback, notwithstanding the rain, and to be back to dinner. . . .. Lord Fitzwilliam generally makes his journeys on horseback, in all

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