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[506] Catholics, but they are—though very religious—not bigoted; have travelled a great deal, and lived in England, as well as other countries, so that, among their other accomplishments, they all talk good English. . . .

We joined the family at tea, in a small, pleasant sort of boudoir, formed in the projecting tower of the castle, which almost overhangs the Elbe, commanding very grand and beautiful views up and down the river. The conversation was very agreeable. Mr. Noel, an Englishman of about five-and-thirty, quite well known in Austria and Saxony for his talents and philanthropy, and a near connection of Lady Byron, is an inmate of the family, and talks extremely well. He is a great admirer of Dr. Channing, as is also Count Leo, the third son of Count Thun, who has translated the Essay on Bonaparte, and was prevented from printing it only by the publication of another translation. It is a curious circumstance, which rendered our conversation more interesting. . . .

June 6.—The castle bell rang at five this morning for prayers, and again for mass at half past 8, in the chapel; but it was at such a distance from our apartments that I took it for a bell in the village. When I went to breakfast I was curious to measure the length of that portion of the grand, cloistered passage through which we pass, and I found it between one hundred and fifty and one hundred and sixty paces,. . . . so that some estimate may be made from this of the vast size of the outside of the castle, as this constitutes only about one third of the length of the inner wall on the court. . .. . The breakfast was unceremonious, and after it we all went to our rooms, the Count and Countess telling us they should come to us presently to fetch us for a walk. They came quite soon, and we went with them over the grounds nearest the castle. They are very ample, and laid out in gardens, with hot-houses, etc., and a park, with fine shaded walks, old trees, fancy temples, and other buildings for shelter and ornament. It is all very grand, and suits the nobleness of the whole establishment. . . . .

Dinner was served punctually at two, and was very delicate and rich, but served with perfect simplicity .. . . . The whole lasted only a little more than an hour, after which we went to the room in the tower, where the ladies prepared and served the coffee. One or two things reminded us rather picturesquely of the country we are in and its usages. Before any one sat down at table there was an instant's pause, as if for prayer; the Count, as the feudal head of the family, was served before the Countess, but not till after his guests;

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