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[333] whom I could hardly keep my eyes off of, as she sat opposite to me one day at dinner, in London. . . . .

But if I begin to gossip about people, I shall be in for two or three sheets more. I will only, therefore, say a word about changes. They are enormous. Berlin is a city of 450,000 souls, eminently prosperous, and full of monuments and collections in the arts. Dresden has improved in equal proportions, and has now a magnificent gallery for its magnificent collection of pictures, a finer and grander building, and one better fitted to its purposes, than any similar one in Italy or elsewhere. You must come here again, indeed you must. Before I tried the experiment I would not have said so. In truth, I came most reluctantly. But I find the improvements in travelling so great, that what used to cause me constant weariness and vexation now causes me neither; and, to my great surprise, I enjoy myself more—mainly in consequence of the ease and comfort with which I move about, and live—than I did in either of my other visits to Europe . . .

I am very glad that Congress has adjourned, and I shall be still more glad when the Ides of November are past. Nobody has said an unkind or unpleasant word to me about our country since I have been in Europe; but I feel, on all sides, that we stand in little favor or respect. Humboldt—whom I have seen every day, or had a note from him—is, I understand, very strong in his remarks sometimes, even to Americans. I cannot say that I am surprised. But I hope for the best, and always talk cheerfully. Mr. Fillmore left a most agreeable impression here. The King was delighted with him, and told me he would vote for him for President. I replied, that Buchanan would get the election, notwithstanding his Majesty's vote. ‘Well,’ he answered, ‘never mind, I am glad we are of the same party, and you may always count upon my vote, at any rate.’

We had been talking some time on American politics, and I had told him that I was of Fillmore's faction. En passant, let me say, that the King is one of the most agreeable men in conversation that I have ever talked with, and has that reputation here. But that is a very different thing from being a great or wise statesman.

Dresden, September 21.—I returned to Dresden last night, and this morning, when turning over my papers, I fell upon a memorandum about a new ordinance for the Library, concerning which we talked last March, and I gave you a sketch or outline, trusting that it would be done this autumn. Now is the time. Please give your thought to it. . . . .

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