A description of the fortunate Ilands, otherwise called
the Ilands of Canaria, with their strange fruits and
commodities: composed by Thomas Nicols English
man, who remained there the space of seven yeeres
together.
MINE intent is particularly to speake of the
Canaria
Ilands, which are seven in number, wherein I dwelt the
space of seven yeres and more, because I finde such
variety in sundry writers, and especially great untruths,
in a booke called The New found world Antarctike, set
out by a French man called Andrew Thevet, the which
his booke he dedicated to the Cardinall of Sens, keeper
of the great seale of France.
It appeareth by the sayd booke that he had read the
works of sundry Phylosophers, Astronomers, and Cosmographers, whose opinions he gathered together. But
touching his owne travell, which he affirmeth, I refer to
the judgement of the expert in our dayes, and therefore
for mine owne part I write of these
Canaria Ilands, as
time hath taught me in many yeres.
THE
Iland of Canaria is almost equal in length and
bredth, containing 12 leagues in length, touching the
which as principall and the residue, the Spanyards holde
opinion, that they discovered the same in their navigation
toward America
, but the Portugals say, that their nation
first found the sayd Ilands in their navigation toward
Aethiopia and the East Indies.
But truth it is that the Spanyards first conquered these
Ilands, with divers English gentlemen in their company,
whose posterity this present day injoyeth them. Some
write that this Iland was named Canaria by meane of
the number of dogs which there were found: as for
example, Andrew Thevet sayth, that one Juba
carried two
dogs from thence: but that opinion could I never learne
by any of the naturall people of the countrey, although
I have talked with many in my time, and with many of
their children. For trueth it is, that there were dogs,
but such as are in all the Northwest lands, and some
part of the West India, which served the people in stead
of sheepe for victuall. But of some of the conquerors
of those Ilands I have heard say that the reason why
they were called the
Canaria Islands is, because there
grow generally in them all fouresquare canes in great
multitude together, which being touched will cast out a
liquor as white as milke, which liquor is ranke poison,
and at the first entry into these Ilands some of the discoverers were therewith poisoned: for many yeeres after
that conquest the inhabitants began to plant both wine
and sugar, so that Canaria was not so called by sugar
canes.
The people which first inhabited this land were called
Canaries by the conquerors, they were clothed in goat
skinnes made like unto a loose cassocke, they dwelt in
caves in the rocks, in great amity and brotherly love.
They spake all one language: their chiefe feeding was
gelt dogges, goates, and goates milke, their bread was
made of barley meale and goates milke, called Gofia,
which they use at this day, and thereof I have eaten
divers times, for it is accounted exceeding holesome.
Touching the originall of these people some holde
opinion, that the Romans which dwelt in Africa
exiled
them thither, aswell men as women, their tongues being
cut out of their heads, for blasphemy against the Romane
gods. But howsoever it were, their language was
speciall, and not mixed with Romane speech or Arabian.
This Iland is now the principallest of all the rest, not
in fertility, but by reason it is the seat of justice and
government of all the residue. This Iland hath a speciall
Governour for the Iland onely, yet notwithstanding there
are three Judges called Auditours, who are superiour
Judges, and all in one joyntly proceed as the Lord Chanceller of any realme.
To this city from all the other Ilands come all such
by appeale, as have sustained any wrong, and these good
Judges do remedy the same. The city is called Civitas
Palmarum, it hath a beautifull Cathedrall church, with all
dignities thereunto pertaining. For the publike weale of
the Iland there are sundry Aldermen of great authority,
who have a councell house by themselves. The city is
not onely beautifull, but the citizens curious and gallant
in apparell. And after any raine or foule weather a man
may goe cleane in Velvet slippers, because the ground
is sandy, the aire very temperate, without extreame heat
or colde.
They reape wheat in February, and againe in May,
which is excellent good, and maketh bread as white as
snow. This Iland hath in it other three townes, the one.
called Telde
, the second Galder, and the third Guia. It
hath also twelve sugar houses called Ingenios, in which
they make great quantity of good sugar.
The maner of the growth of sugar is in this sort, a
good ground giveth foorth fruit nine times in 18 yere:
that is to say, the first is called Planta, which is layd
along in a furrow, so that the water of a sluce may come
over every roote being covered with earth: this root
bringeth foorth sundry canes, and so consequently all
the rest. It groweth two yeeres before the yeelding of
profit, and not sixe moneths, as Andrew Thevet the
French man writeth.
Then are they cut even with the ground, and the tops
& leaves called Coholia cut off, and the canes bound into
bundels like faggots, and so are caried to the sugar
house called Ingenio, where they are ground in a mill,
and the juyce thereof conveyed by a conduct to a great
vessell made for the purpose, where it is boiled till it
waxe thicke, and then is it put into a fornace of earthen
pots of the molde of a sugar loafe, and then is it carried
to another house, called a purging house where it is
placed to purge the blacknesse with a certaine clay that
is layd thereon. Of the remainder in the cauldron is
made a second sort called Escumas, and of the purging
liquor that droppeth from the white sugar is made a
third sort, and the remainder is called Panela or Netas,
the refuse of all the purging is called Remiel or Malasses:
and thereof is made another sort called Refinado.
When this first fruit is in this sort gathered, called
Planta, then the Cane-field where it grew is burned over
with sugar straw to the stumps of the first canes, and
being husbanded, watred and trimmed, at the end of
other two yeeres it yeeldeth the second fruit called Zoca.
The third fruit is called Tertia Zoca, the fourth Quarta
Zoca, and so orderly the rest, til age causeth the olde
Canes to be planted againe.
This Iland hath singular good wine, especially in the
towne of Telde
, and sundry sorts of good fruits, as
Batatas, Mellons, Peares, Apples, Orenges, Limons,
Pomgranats, Figs, Peaches of divers sorts, and many
other fruits: but especially the Plantano which groweth
neere brooke sides, it is a tree that hath no timber in it,
but groweth directly upward with the body, having
marvelous thicke leaves, and every leafe at the toppe
of two yards long and almost halfe a yard broad. The
tree never yeeldeth fruit but once, and then is cut downe;
in whose place springeth another, and so still continueth.
The fruit groweth on a branch, and every tree yeeldeth
two or three of those branches, which beare some more
and some lesse, as some forty and some thirty, the fruit
is like a Cucumber, and when it is ripe it is blacke, and
in eating more delicate then any conserve.
This Iland is sufficiently provided of Oxen, Kine,
Camels, Goats, Sheepe, Capons, Hens, Ducks, and
Pidgeons, and great Partridges. Wood is the thing that
most wanteth : and because I have particularly to intreat
of the other sixe Ilands, I leave further inlarging of
Canaria, which standeth in 27 degrees distant from the Equator.
THE
Iland of Tenerif standeth in 27 degrees and a halfe
from the equator, and is distant from Canaria 12 leagues
Northward. This Iland containeth 17 leagues in length,
and the land lieth high in forme of a ridge of sowen
lande in some part of England, and in the midst of the
sayd place standeth a round hill called Pico Deteithe,
situated in this sort. The top of this pike conteineth of
heigth directly upward 15 leagues & more, which is 45
English miles, out of the which often times proceedeth
fire and brimstone, and it may be about halfe a mile in
compasse: the sayd top is in forme or likenesse of a
caldron. But within two miles of the top is nothing but
ashes & pumish stones: yet beneath that two miles is
the colde region covered all the yere with snow, and
somwhat lower are mighty huge trees growing, called
Vinatico, which are exceeding heavy, and will not rot
in any water, although they lie a thousand yeeres therein.
Also there is a wood called Barbusano, of like vertue,
with many Savine trees and Pine trees. And beneath
these sorts of trees are woods of Bay trees of 10 & 12
miles long, which is a pleasant thing to travell thorow,
among the which are great numbers of small birds, which
sing exceeding sweet, but especially one sort that are
very litle, and of colour in all respects like a Swallow,
saving that he hath a little blacke spot on his breast
as broad as a peny. He singeth more sweetly then all
the rest, but if he be taken and imprisoned in a cage,
he liveth but a small while. This Iland bringeth foorth
all sorts of fruits, as Canaria doth: and also all the
other Ilands in generall bring foorth shrubs or bushes,
out of the which issueth a juice as white as milke, which
after a while that it hath come out waxeth thicke, and
is exceeding good birdlime, the bush is called Taybayba.
This Iland also bringeth foorth another tree called Drago,
which groweth on high among rocks, and by incision at
the foot of the tree issueth out a liquor like blood, which
is a common drug among Apothecaries. Of the wood
of this tree are made targets greatly esteemed, because
if any sword or dagger hit thereon, they sticke so fast
that it is hard plucking them out.
This is the most fruitfull Iland of all the rest for corne,
and in that respect is a mother or nurse to all the others
in time of need. There groweth also a certaine mosse
upon the high rocks called Orchel, which is bought for
Diars to die withall. There are 12 sugar houses called
Ingenios, which make great quantity of sugar. There is
also one league of ground which standeth between two
townes, the one called Larotava, and the other Rialeio,
and it is thought that the like plot of ground is not in
all the world. The reason is, that this one league of
ground produceth sweet water out of the cliffes or rocky
mountaines, corne of all sortes, fruites of all sortes, and
excellent good silke, flaxe, waxe, and hony, and very
good wines in abundance, with great store of sugar and
fire-wood. Out of this Iland is laden great quantity of
wines for the West India, and other countreys. The
best groweth on a hill side called the Ramble.
There is in that Iland a faire city, standing three
leagues from the sea, nere unto a lake called Laguna
,
wherein are two faire parish churches, there dwelleth
the governour who ruleth all that Iland with justice.
There are also aldermen for the publike weale, who buy
their offices of the king: the most of the whole inhabitants of this city are gentlemen, merchants, and husband
men.
There are other foure townes called Santa Cruz, Larotava, Rialeio, and Garachico.
In this Iland before the conquest dwelt seven kings,
who with all their people dwelt in caves, and were
clothed in goat skinnes, as the Canaria people were, and
used such like order of diet as they had. Their order
of buriall was, that when any died, he was carried naked
to a great cave, where he was propped up against the
wall standing on his feet. But if he were of any authority
among them, then had he a staffe in his hand, and a
vessel of milke standing by him. I have seene caves of
300 of these corpses together, the flesh being dried up,
the body remained as light as parchment. These people
were called Guanches, naturally they spake another
language cleane contrary to the Canarians, and so consequently every Iland spake a severall language.
Note (gentle reader) that the
Iland of Canaria, the
Ile
of Tenerif, and the
Ile of Palma appertaine to the king
of Spaine, unto whom they pay fifty thousand duckats
yeerely for custome and other profits. All these Ilands
joyntly are one bishopricke, which pay to the bishop
twelve thousand duckats yeerely. And this I conclude of
the
Ile of Tenerif, which standeth in 27 degrees and a
halfe, as I have before declared.
Gomera.
THE
Iland of Gomera standeth Westward from Tenerif,
in distance sixe leagues: this is but a small Iland conteining eight leagues in length. It is an Earledome, &
the Lord thereof is called the earle of Gomera. But in
case of any controversie the vassals may appeale to the
kings superior Judges which reside in
Canaria.
This Iland hath one proper towne called Gomera, which
hath an excellent good port or harbour for ships, where
often times the Indian fleet take refreshing for their
voyage.
There is also sufficient graine and fruit for the maintenance of themselves.
There is one Ingenio or Sugar-house, with great plenty
of wine and other sorts of fruits, as Canaria and Tenerif
hath.
This Iland yeeldeth no other commodity but onely
orchell; it standeth in 27 degrees distant from the
Equator toward the pole Arcticke.
THE
Ile of Palma standeth twelve leagues distant from
the
Ile of Gomera Northwestward. This Iland is fruitfull
of wine and sugar: it hath a proper city called the city
of Palma, where is great contraction for wines, which
are laden for the West India & other places. This city
hath one faire church, and a governour, and aldermen
to maintaine and execute justice. It hath also another
prety towne, called S. Andrewes. It hath also foure
Ingenios which make excellent sugar, two of the which
are called Zauzes, and the other two, Tassacort.
This Iland yeeldeth but little bread-corne; but rather
is thereof provided from Tenerif and other places.
Their best wines grow in a soile called the Brenia,
where yerely is gathered twelve thousand buts of wine
like unto Malmsies. This Iland standeth round, and containeth in circuit neere five and twenty leagues. It hath
plenty of all sorts of fruits, as Canaria and Tenerif have,
it standeth in twenty seven degrees and a halfe.
The Iland of Yron
, called Hierro
.
THIS Iland standeth ten leagues distant from the
Iland
of Palma Westward: it is but a little Iland, which containeth sixe leagues in circuit, and hath but small
extension. It appertaineth to the earle of Gomera. The
chiefest commodity of this Iland is goats flesh and orchell.
There is no wine in all that Iland, but onely one vineyard
that an English man of Taunton
in the
West countrey
planted among rocks, his name was John Hill.
This Iland hath no kind of fresh water, but onely in
the middle of the Iland groweth a great tree with leaves
like an Olive tree, which hath a great cisterne at the foot
of the sayd tree. This tree continually is covered with
clouds, and by meanes thereof the leaves of the sayd
tree continually drop water, very sweet, into the sayd
cisterne, which commeth to the sayd tree from the clouds
by attraction. And this water sufficeth the Iland for all
necessities, aswell for the cattell, as for the inhabitants.
It standeth in 27 degrees.
THE
Iland of Lanzarota standeth eighteene leagues distant
from grand Canaria Southeastward. The onely commodity of this Iland is goats flesh and orchell. It is an
earledome, and doth appertaine to Don Augustine de
Herrera, with title of earle of Fortaventura and Lanzarota. But the vassals of these earledomes may in any
cause of wrong appeale to the Kings Judges, which reside
in
Canaria, as I have sayd before: because although the
king hath reserved to himselfe but onely the three fruitful
Ilands, called Canaria, Tenerif, and Palma, yet he also
reserved the rod of justice to himselfe, because otherwise
the vassals might be evill intreated of their Lords.
From this Iland do weekly resort to Canaria, Tenerif,
& Palma, boats laden with dried goats flesh, called Tussmetta, which serveth in stead of bacon, and is very good
meat. This Iland standeth in 26 degrees, and is in length
twelve leagues.
THE
Ile of Forteventura standeth fifty leagues from the
promontory of Cabo de Guer, in the firme land of Africa
,
and foure & twenty leagues distant from Canaria Estward.
This Iland doth appertaine to the lord of Lanzarota. It
is reasonable fruitfull of wheat and barley, and also of
kine, goats, and orchel: this Ile is fifteene leagues long
and ten leagues broad. On the North side it hath a
little Iland about one league distant from the maine Iland,
betweene both of the which it is navigable for any ships,
and is called Graciosa
.
Both Forteventura and Lanzarota have very little wine
of the growth of those Ilands. It standeth in 27 degrees.
Thus much have I written of these seven Ilands by
experience, because I was a dweller there, as I have sayd
before, the space of seven yeeres in the affaires of master
Thomas Locke, master Anthonie Hickman, and master
Edward Castelin, who in those dayes were worthy merchants, and of great credite in the citie of London.
THE
Iland of Madera standeth in 32 degrees distant from
the equinoctinall line, and seventie leagues from the
Ile
of Tenerif Northeastward and Southwest from Hercules
pillars. This Iland was first discovered by one Macham
an Englishman, and was after conquered and inhabited
by the Portugall nation. It was first called the
Iland of
Madera, by reason of the great wildernesse of sundry
sortes of trees that there did growe, and yet doe, as
Cedars, Cypres, Vinatico, Barbuzano, Pine trees, and
divers others, and therefore the sayd Iland continueth
still with the same name. Howbeit they hold opinion,
that betweene the sayd Iland and the
Ile of Palma is
an Iland not yet discovered, which is the true
Iland
Madera called saint Brandon
. This Iland yeeldeth a great
summe of money to the king of Portugall yeerely: it
hath one faire citie called Fouchall, which hath one faire
port or harbour for shippes, and a strong bulwarke, and
a faire Cathedrall church, with a bishop and other
dignities thereunto appertaining. There is also justice
and government according to the Portugall use. But
causes of appellation are remitted to the citie of Lisbone
in
Portugall to the kings superior judges there. This Iland hath another towne called Machico
, which hath
likewise a good road for ships, which towne and road
were so called after the name of Macham the Englishman,
who first discovered the same. There are also sixteene
sugar houses called Ingenios, which make excellent good
sugar.
There is besides the goodly timber before declared,
great store of divers sortes of fruites, as Peares, Apples,
Plummes, wild Dates, Peaches of divers sortes, Mellons,
Batatas, Orenges, Lemmons, Pomgranates, Citrons,
Figges, and all maner of garden herbes. There are many
Dragon trees, such as grow in the
Canarie Ilands, but
chiefly this land produceth great quantitie of singular
good wines which are laden for many places. On the
North side of this land three leagues distant from the
maine Iland standeth another litle Iland called Porto
santo: the people thereof liveth by husbandrie, for the
Iland of Madera yeeldeth but litle corne, but rather is
thereof provided out of France and from the
Iland of
Tenerif. On the East side of the
Ile of Madera sixe
leagues distant standeth another litle Iland called the
Desert, which produceth onely Orchell, and nourisheth a
great number of Goates, for the provision of the maine
Iland, which may be thirtie leagues in circuit: and the
land is of great heigth where the foresayd trees growe.
It is woonder to see the conveyance of the water to the
Ingenios by Mines through the mountaines.
In the mid way betweene Tenerif and the
Iland of
Madera standeth a litle solitarie Iland called the Salvages,
which may bee about one league in compasse, which hath
neither tree nor fruit, but is onely food for Goates.
