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“ [36] the earthenware drum and castanets worn like rings on the upper joints of the fingers. Arab cafe — the story-teller, the one-stringed violin....”

“To the ball at the Abdin Palace. The girls looked charmingly. Maud danced all the night. The Khedive 1 made me quite a speech. He is a short, thickset man, looking about fifty, with grizzled hair and beard. He wore a fez, Frank dress, and a star on his breast. Tewfik Pasha, his son and heir, was similarly dressed. Consul Farman presented me to both of them. The suite of rooms is very handsome, but this is not the finest of the Khedive's palaces. Did not get home much before four in the morning. In the afternoon had visited the mosque of Sultan Abdul Hassan....”

After Cairo came a trip up the Nile, with all its glories and discomforts. Between marvel and marvel she read Herodotus and Mariette Bey assiduously.

Christmas Day. Cool wind. Native reis of the boat has a brown woollen capote over his blue cotton gown, the hood drawn over his turban. A Christmas service. Rev. Mr. Stovin, English, read the lessons for the day and the litany. We sang ‘Nearer, my God, to Thee,’ and ‘Hark, the herald angels sing.’ It was a good little time. My thoughts flew back to Theodore Parker, who loved this [first] hymn, and in whose ‘meeting’ I first heard it. Upper deck dressed with palms — waiters in their best clothes .. .”

“To-day visited Assiout, where we arrived soon after ten in the morning. Donkey-ride delightful, ”

1 Ismail Pasha.

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